Update here. I was able to finally get a replacement battery under the batteries warranty. It's been in the car for 3 days and so far so good, the first night I set up an AGM trickle charge even thought it really didn't need it, the battery mfr date was 11/23 so it's pretty new.
For one, its really frustrating that you can't even change a battery in these without things freaking out. Yes, I get you lose some personal settings like the running boards and some other settings, but I can't stand that after changing a battery the proper way, you get 3-4 DTC's. Its even worse that those don't show up when using a pretty standard scanner, you have to break out Forscan to find them. These codes, after a battery swap, prevent remote start from working. So even though I waited till after the system would have relearned/reset the battery monitoring system (sat for 2 nights undisturbed and locked in the garage), I couldn't remote start the vehicle. So hooking up Forscan I cleared those codes and now I can remote start the vehicle.
Now on to my original issues, missing sounds for various vehicle interactions. I still haven't had the parking aid sounds come through the stereo. Until I replaced the battery, I didn't have anymore APIM/IPC errors appear so I would have hoped I'd be good. After I cleared all the DTC's, I ran a few more tests via forscan. For example, I did the ACM (audio control module) tests, those passed with flying colors. I ran APIM tests, no issues. I ran the DAC tests, no issues. Funny enough, I ran the DSP tests and each time, it would come back with a different list of speakers that have an open circuit, but the fact that it changed to some degree each time made me think that's just a faulty test (anyone else try this using forscan, curious what your outcome was?). an example code was DSP B1A06:13 speaker 9 open circuit. Actually, to that extent, anyone have a diagram showing what each speaker number is in relation to the system?
Anyway, I have no other issues really, its just really frustrating that I can't get this to return to normal. Has anyone on here tried the sub-only wiring harness I'm using (I used the Kit 10 - harness only from
https://plugnplaykits.com/products/2018-2020-ford-f150-with-b-o-plug-play-harness-kits). Curious if anyone else has tried this. The sub and amp work perfectly fine, and all these harness do is essentially let you tap into the 4 sub-leads going into the factory enclosure, but in a clean way using a factory style harness adapter, that shouldn't affect anything.
Honestly it's a real pain in the rear to take apart the back of this thing, so troubleshooting isn't uber easy, looking for anyone's thoughts here. Appreciate in advance.
Quick additional question here - Anyone play with the settings for 727-01-01 related to the open detection? I'm wondering if the fact that I'm using the amplifier output connections for the stock sub, would the modules see that as an open connection and be causing issues? I see two possible options but I have no idea how they actually work, "Front/Rear Speakers Detection enabled (if Int amp)/disabled & Antenna Type & Number of Presets" and "Center Channel Open Detection & AAM & Convertible & Turn Signal Chimes". Any idea if using my asbuilt to determine original settings but change both to check for open disabled? Curious if anyone else had to do this.