Radar and Dash Cam Hardwire

[TheDoug]

So there have been a couple other posts about this but I wanted to share what I came up with and what worked for me.

First off my radar detector is weird, it uses 5v power instead of 12v. My dash cam also uses 5v. So I did not want to use the mirror power tap method because I would need to mount the 12v to 5v converter up there as well.

I ran both cables all the way to the passenger side fuse box using a fuse tap on fuse 37 (steering wheel heater). There have been reports in the previous posts that the steering wheel heater would stop working using this method. Mine did not have this issue and I was able to find fuse taps that actually fit securely without modifying or cutting the fuse box area.

Only issue I have so far is finding a usb y cable that supplies power. The one I bought doesn't pass power on either port.

Here are some pics. Second one is just showing there is room without modifying the cover to run the wire.

 

[TheDoug]

Solution for splitting power... super cheap amazon basics hub

 

[Dice Roll]

That was me that lost the wheel heat. I was told by some techs on another board it is pulling too many amps and the computer is cutting power on that circuit. They said I should be able to get it reprogrammed to allow a bit more to flow. With the pandemic I have driven so much less that I forgot this was even an issue. So haven’t pursued anything further.

if I’m reading that right, you’ve not yet tried to use both things at once? Hopefully you are under the cutoff. I’m kinda not seeing the point of a fuse to protect the circuit if the computer does it automatically, but that appears to be the case.

 

[TheDoug]

I have been able to use both at same time. Didn't have heater on for long.

Being in Texas I think I have used the heated steering wheel all of 3 times lol

 

[lbv150]

To solve the drawing too much current from the wheel heater...us professional installers use a relay to switch the power and a fuse tap on an ignition switched fuse. I personally like to tap into the same circuit that switches the entertainment system so you still get delayed power until the door is opened or the timer runs out. Choose the 5v power supply carefully, quite a few interfere with the FM radio reception on distant stations.

 

[Dice Roll]

I told my professional installer he should’ve used a relay. He didn’t even care to send me another fuse tap to try. If he weren’t 600 miles from here, he’d have heard a lot more from me. Just a mess for me to get involved in with kids. If I start driving much in the winter again I suppose I’ll look into doing something about it.

seems like the fuse the factory uses for RES has a lot of interplay with other stuff. It did something weird to the radio when I tried to test or tap or something back when I looked at the problem. Been too long for me to say. I know I checked into using it and ended up on the wheel heat because of something I didn’t like.

 

[KSC 2019 XLT]

About to take my 2019 XLT to Best Buy to have them hardwire my dash cam power cord to the fuse box. Any recommendations on which fuse they should be wiring it to?

 

[Dice Roll]

I think the wheel heat is number 37. Just look in your owners book. Scarcely anything else is on keyed power.

 

[lbv150]

About to take my 2019 XLT to Best Buy to have them hardwire my dash cam power cord to the fuse box. Any recommendations on which fuse they should be wiring it to?

They are the "experts" let them figure it out and if they mess up it's on them. Not your place to tell them how to do their job. I never had a customer tell me how to wire their vehicle and if they did I would probably ask why they brought it to me when they could do it themselves.....

 

[NukeLife]

They are the "experts" let them figure it out and if they mess up it's on them. Not your place to tell them how to do their job. I never had a customer tell me how to wire their vehicle and if they did I would probably ask why they brought it to me when they could do it themselves.....

whew.. that’s a tough one.
I have a hard time thinking of Best Buy as “experts” at automotive electrical.
If you have a local custom car audio installer, that’s where I would take it.

I’ve had to correct poor splices, solders and wire routing many times that were installed by “experts” at places like Best Buy.

Custom shops cost more, but the quality and peace of mind is worth it in my opinion.