Radiator tank cracked. clutch fan to blame?

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

97 expy 2wd 4.6w with 282k miles.

yesterday I found I had a cracked radiator tank and that has had me thinking about some other issues the truck has had.

1. ac compressor failed about 6 mos back
2. rear heat core connections under hood were busted at purchase
3. intake gaskets were leaking at purchase
4. heater hose blew off of front heater core on Christmas day
5. new connections on heater hoses seem to seep randomly, not enough to account for any coolant loss.. clamps are as tight as they should be if not tighter than normal..
6. radiator hose is quick to build pressure ( nothing absurdly quick, maybe 3 to 5 mins of idle)
7 I have noted that there is still pressure on the system up to three hours later.

after reviewing this list I am going to add two parts to the radiator replacement this weekend. New coolant reservoir cap, new clutch for the fan.
I can't say if the fan had anything to do with the ac failing but there is the possibility that it caused the pressures to get too high from sitting too long in traffic. there were metal bits in the orifice tube but nothing major and nothing like the "black death"

also, if it's possible to find one I would like to possibly get an electric switched clutch fan. but if it's not possible that'll be fine.

 

[tonydiv]

If that fan clutch wasn't doing its job, you'd see the temp gauge start to climb.

Are the coolant and engine oil both uncontaminated? Unusual pressure in the cooling system is often a result of a blown head gasket.

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

If that fan clutch wasn't doing its job, you'd see the temp gauge start to climb.

The fan seems to work for the most part. I haven't been able to tell if it is functioning under higher levels of heat yet. I would've been able to test it properly today if it weren't 40f out... The temperatures are normal as I don't idle enough to tell yet but, usually, my drive is 0-5 mins idle then I'm at 35 to 80 mph the rest of the 20 mile drive. I did a test on the thermostat from idle at about 90f on start up. it went to 199.4 tops then dropped to about 178 and back up to 199.4 and bounced from there to 194 or 192 every 30 or so seconds. The gap between the condenser is clear of debris as well.

to add, the thermostat and water pump have been replaced within the last half year before I bought it. verified by receipts.

Are the coolant and engine oil both uncontaminated? Unusual pressure in the cooling system is often a result of a blown head gasket.

Oil and coolant are normal for their color. no loss from either. no moisture on oil cap and the coolant is still as green as it was going in.. also, wouldn't there be excess gas build up in the system if the gasket were the issue behind the extra pressure? I will go ahead and buy and do the test anyhow to be safe.

Sorry if it seems that I am over complicating this, I don't want to put a new rad in and have it crack as well from over pressure.

 

[stamp11127]

Hate to bust your bubble but the plastic surge tanks are crap. We stock a bunch of them where I work. School buses split the seams on them about every year.
The fan clutch has nothing to do with the tank problems. If your coolant temp got to the point that the tank would fail, your engine would be toast. Were guessing it is the cycling of hot and cold under pressure that is causing the tank failures.
As far as the system pressure goes, I would only be concerned if it built pressure above 16lbs or what the rating is on the cap.
On the a/c pressures, there is a relief valve in the compressor that is supposed to open around 450lbs if I remember correctly. So what if the condenser temp went high. Only thing that happens then is loss of cooling.

Sounds more like you have a handy man special, no big deal. So do I.
When you change your radiator, mix the concentrate with distilled water. Do not use tap water as it conducts electricity and the radiator would become a sacrificial anode.

The cycling temps of your lasts post proves the fan clutch is working. If it wasn't the temp would not come down.

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

You've made good points. I just need to be sure I have covered everything I can before I go ahead and replace it. but seeing that the fan looks to be okay I will put that part off until I can verify that it may be acting up. perhaps then I might be able to just do the electric fan conversion.

oh and as far as having buses split them every year. why is there not a reliable alternative to the plastic. or...why do they even make the tanks plastic.. plastic and aluminum don't really need to be used together anyhow

 

[vigman]

Don't do the electric fan conversion.. the CORE problem is they flat do not move as much air as the OEM one ( with proper shroud & working clutch ).Stamp is correct ALL A/C systems have an over temp pop off valve. I learned where mine was when my electric fan couldn't keep up with the heat load ( Different ride ).. A bit of metal in your A/C system is typical for something this old.. It happens when the system needs a charge, has just enough to run for a few seconds then Low pressure is to low & kicks the compressor off… there is not enough freon in the system to properly lube the compressor innards. ( the freon carries the oil in an AC system A LA 2 stroke dirt bike ).

And plastic tanks are CRAP….. Looking for an alternate type all metal radiator...

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

Okay, where I sit now, I have a few choices to make. I've found the rest of the ac parts I need and also need a radiator (or a fix for the cracked tank, for now I have it stopped by leaving the cap loose) Thing is, I have the 2 row rad which is about 2/3 more expensive on average. I don't tow and I have the 4.6 so I don't plan on it either. If I don't repair the tank on mine I might just go with a 1 row to save cost. Do any of you all have any objections/advice to that decision?

 

[stamp11127]

I haven't read of anyone successfully fixing a plastic tank that stands the test of time. The plastic used is hard to bind anything to, you have hot and cold cycles to deal with plus the elements.

Bite the bullet and buy a decent radiator - I switched to the 2 row only because it was about $30 more at the time. I don't tow but if I should in the future the extra capacity may come in handy. Better to have too much than not enough. Compare prices on Rock Auto, that is where I sourced mine from about 2 years ago.

Don't take this the wrong way, reliability is directly related to the cost of parts, quality of the parts and workmanship of the repair. Being cheap on repairs will cost you more in the long run, not only in down time but in shortened part life. There is a thin line between being cost conscious and stupid - not saying your stupid. People in general do stupid things trying to save money. They only realize it after they spend the money and it fails. Yes, I have worn that hat in the past and learned the lesson. There are times to step back and look at what your planning on doing and ask yourself is this the best way to go.

The way I look at things now is that I want 100% up time. I look the vehicle over and try to repair prior to failure.

 

[tonydiv]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-270

This is the correct way to do the electric fan conversion.
As you can see it's pricey, so it explains why everybody pieces together units.

 

[vigman]

Just under 11,000 CFM Good.... 28 amps additional CONSTANT pull ( when on ) not so much... and I'll wager the stock fan is in the 7500 CFM zone... all that retrofit, wiring & 600+ bucks lighter in the wallet.... Buy a "better " radiator and trans cooler..

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

After seeing that price. A better Rad is a better idea. The electric fan was just a thought anyhow. I will swing by an auto store today and grab the head gasket check kit and see how that turns out.

For now I have the coolant bottle cap loosened and that has stopped the leak for now. Thanks for the advice

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

update: I haven't gotten around to replacing the radiator as I wanted to wait for warmer weather to test the fan.. I believe the fan is to blame now almost for sure... today after work (2p and about 88f) a buddy of mine had just got a 98 f-150 that I hadn't seen yet, so, i started my truck to let the ac cool it down. we got to talking for about 30 mins then I noticed the ac kicking in/out with a short on and long off cycle. I walk over to the truck and notice that I can't really hear the fan going so I go inside to pop the hood and it's still hot inside and the temp gauge is almost at 3/4. i had installed an override switch and used the high pressure cut off switch wire. the led on my switch was off as well so that tells me that the fan isn't doing it's job at idle.

I gave it some throttle (held at about 1.8k revs) then the fan started and the temp began to fall and the ac kicked back in. the fan slowed again when i returned to idle.

I checked the fan again when I got home and it was turning much better at idle.. so..I don't trust the fan clutch any longer and will be replacing it soon.

 

[Bowesmobile]

Iminyourchair,

Have you checked out my thread on the electric fan conversion? There is a link in my signature. Before you decide against a electric fan set-up please read it and make a educated decision. Mine works great! I tow and the truck stays cool with the AC on. So take a few minutes to read it and think about what you want to do. My whole set-up was about $230 if I remember correctly. That was including the new radiator.

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

Iminyourchair,

Have you checked out my thread on the electric fan conversion? There is a link in my signature. Before you decide against a electric fan set-up please read it and make a educated decision. Mine works great! I tow and the truck stays cool with the AC on. So take a few minutes to read it and think about what you want to do. My whole set-up was about $230 if I remember correctly. That was including the new radiator.

huh, that's the thread I read which made me consider the conversion. will send a pm..