rear differential locked

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ralix

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Sorry I ghosted this thread, got busy over the last week. Thanks for all the thoughts. The slow roll back and forth did not fix the problem. Neither did "break torquing" in reverse! LOL

1. I am going to try to disconnect the battery tonight and drain the power out of the system as a way to hard reset the electrical system. Is that even a thing now? I used that trick on older vehicles to reset the CPU.

2. Also someone suggested hitting the housing with a large sledge hammer to free up the locked gears. Thoughts on that?

3. I've gotten no error messages this whole time, no over heating or anything. What are people's thoughts on longterm wear an tear if I just keep driving it as is?

Thanks again for the help!
 

LokiWolf

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Sorry I ghosted this thread, got busy over the last week. Thanks for all the thoughts. The slow roll back and forth did not fix the problem. Neither did "break torquing" in reverse! LOL

1. I am going to try to disconnect the battery tonight and drain the power out of the system as a way to hard reset the electrical system. Is that even a thing now? I used that trick on older vehicles to reset the CPU.

2. Also someone suggested hitting the housing with a large sledge hammer to free up the locked gears. Thoughts on that?

3. I've gotten no error messages this whole time, no over heating or anything. What are people's thoughts on longterm wear an tear if I just keep driving it as is?

Thanks again for the help!
1. Worth a try, and should have already been tried. Was mentioned above I thought.
2. Rubber mallet maybe, not a sledge hammer. Leave a dent, and I PROMISE Ford will not cover the repair when and if you take it to them.
3. TERRIBLE idea. You should be driving it as little as possible until you get this fixed. If you haven't already made an appointment, you should immediately do that!

To be clear the locked symbol is not illuminated on the dash? If that is the case, and you press the button, does it light? I assume, you pressed it on and off like a suggested, while moving forward and backwards. If the light indeed turns on and off, with the press of the button, yet it feels like it is still crabbing in the rear when you turn, disconnecting the battery will most likely have no bearing, but still worth a try. You most likely have a physical issues, not electronic.
 

DieselMonk

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Sorry I ghosted this thread, got busy over the last week. Thanks for all the thoughts. The slow roll back and forth did not fix the problem. Neither did "break torquing" in reverse! LOL

1. I am going to try to disconnect the battery tonight and drain the power out of the system as a way to hard reset the electrical system. Is that even a thing now? I used that trick on older vehicles to reset the CPU.

2. Also someone suggested hitting the housing with a large sledge hammer to free up the locked gears. Thoughts on that?

3. I've gotten no error messages this whole time, no over heating or anything. What are people's thoughts on longterm wear an tear if I just keep driving it as is?

Thanks again for the help!
Try putting your truck in 4A and drive aggressively a tight figure 8 on a paved or concrete parking lot so the wheels squeak a little. I mean a tight figure 8 going through the full range of the steering wheel from side to side.
This is not a Ford procedure, but that is what Mercedes does to get the shudder out of the clutch packs in their eLSD.
 

mlogan

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My 2022 is in right now having the rear differential control module replaced due to similar symptoms. It’s been acting up for a bit and I’m wondering if I need to worry about premature wear to the bridge differential if this is a clutch system.
 

DieselMonk

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This eLSD uses clutches, they are just electronically controlled. A sticky clutch pack (you notice it by making sharp turns (especially going in revere and turn the steering wheel all the way to one side to turn around as an example). It comes from babying the car. These performance cars need to be driven like you stole it at some point. Usually this happens after winter driving.

Like I said in post #25. I am not sure if Ford has a procedure for the eLSD like Mercedes has. But Mercedes sez to drive an aggressive figure 8 on pave and that does work on their cars (verified).
 
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