Replacing rear suspension pieces.

[Ixlr8nAk]

In the process of replacing suspension bushings and such, the importance of having the suspension at ride height when tightening retainers is pretty clear. "Don't tighten while in any other than static ride height" to avoid preloading bushing rotation position.
On the 2004 in the service manual it states " do not jack vehicle from lower rear control arm".
My thinking is that just finding a secure location under the lower rear A arm to jack it to approx. ride height, is not the same as jacking the vehicle from such point,
Is that the case? Have you had good results doing it using another method?
Thought about ramps once the bolts are all on and wheel mounted, but space to swing a 4 foot long torque wrench under the rig on ramps seems a stretch.

 

[whtbronco]

When I swapped my rear lower control arms I measured the fender height before hand. Then used my normal rear jack point which is the lower rear strut to lift it to the same height afterwards. Then tighten everything up. I also had a jack stand under the frame with just a tiny bit of space, basically my idea was the jack stand would catch it if the jack slipped.

 

[Ixlr8nAk]

Thanks, I was thinking the Lower A-arm, but you mention lower rear strut?
Was that under the shock strut, once its together with your new lower arm?

 

[whtbronco]

Yeah with all bolts slightly snugged up to ensure there is no significant play I just put the jack under the strut and slowly lifted to the proper ride height and tightened it up. the lower strut mount is the main load bearing point on the lower control arm so to me it made sense.

I'm not suggesting this is the right way and it did seem slightly sketchy, but it got the job done and by myself I didn't see another option.

This is from the Ford manual:
NOTE: Snug the lower arm-to-frame pivot nuts and bolts. Do not tighten to specification until installation procedure is complete and the vehicle is at curb ride height.

 

[Ixlr8nAk]

Got the rear Shocks and Air springs done. The top 3 studs on the air springs, while only on at 26 pounds, start to come off easy. But about 2 turns out got very stiff to turn, requiring retightening, and more penetrant, about 3 times each. So they acted like 18 nuts, even after them being cleaned days before and PB blasted. Even added a bit of trans fluid to them.
Those 6 top studs are scary at 50 plus pounds. I had not heard of them twisting in the stamped steel top till after the job, but its no joke if they do. Slow and repeated application of oil got them done.
Toe adjusters where a breeze. Had a separator kit handy but a couple taps and the studs released.
Lower shock bolt on the 200 thousand mile Bilstein reservoir shocks where most definitely at 300 pounds. Four foot breaker on a half inch drive ratchet worked. Not sure the ratchet mech. is in great shape now though. Didn't have a breaker, but the extension( thick pipe ) and room to swing its was a must.
Got a 3/4 drive 100-600 wrench off muh zon. 160 bucks or so, and 4ft long. Was a great blessing upon tightening the lower.

Ended up finding a thick aluminum boss on the very outer area of the lower A-arm, next to the knuckle bushing to lift to ride height. My 50 year old( rebuilt ) sears floor jack with a 3 inch pad worked there, with a small block of wood as padding. Cant suggest that, it can split depending on the wood grain positioning. But, just going to my pre-work measurement of axel to wheel arch, it worked.

Through the over thought, of doing the work, I looked up the effects of using Loctite and other substances in relation to applied force ( torque ). While alot of people say its within negligible acceptance. It turned out to be about a 10% change to specs. On a 70 pound torque maybe not a deal breaker, but on the 330 pound bolt it compounds alot. Might be worth a look at if in doubt. Its not aero space, but the physics do apply.

Best wishes.

 

[whtbronco]

The first time I swapped the struts on my 2004, air to conventional springs, it was done with traditional hand tools. It truly is no joke and that lower mount certainly is tight as can be. Well done doing it with hand tools.

My second time swapping all the struts and more I used ratchet wrenches, an impact gun and an electric ratchet. Holy crap it was so much easier and less painful, haha.