Second VSS replacement failed

[Billme]

I’m still cleaning those traces….. I had a paint touch up pen with the fiberglass point was very helpful in cleaning.. This is a very tedious job.. Putting back together is the hardest…
Who ever designed this must be in the nut house .. It’s incredible…I have several places that I’m really worried.. One place I’m going to have to build up with solder on a few traces.. I like two more sheets lol I call BS on the YouTube guy saying this is a 3 hour job, hehe

 

[jr1under]

I call BS on the YouTube guy saying this is a 3 hour job, hehe

Nothing makes something easier to do than having done it before, and you can quote me on that. If I'm working on something new and the YT expert says it's a 3 hour job, my experience says it's going to be more like 3 days.

How did moisture get into the fuse box to cause that corrosion?

 

[Billme]

How did moisture get into the fuse box to cause that corrosion?

I assume the windshield seal.. It is old..I don’t see any visible or wetness anywhere, but it has been garage kept since I got it back from my son.. He used it for about 7 years in his business..
Inside the fuse box was green corrosion and a burnt area but nothing wet..I’m sure in the pass it was.. I had the windshield replaced when I got it back, and decided to get it back in shape..
Btw, I have fixed several circuits so far, but this last one is pretty tuff.. I got to find some copper plate, so I can make a section much longer..
I may just beat out and shape a copper solid wire most likely..Then it’s a matter of putting it on..Those other layers I’ve already installed..
Then it’s a matter of checking continuity.. If I have one problem, I’m just going to buy one, because I’m not going to go back into that thing, hehe
I drilled some drain holes for any future issues

 

[Billme]

I got the CJB back installed and trying to figure out how to check pin14 and 21 for VSS signals I’m told I can plug everything in except C243 with key on.. I forgot to reinstall the relays, so when I turn the key on, nothing, so I hope it’s just that.. We’ll see..
I ordered a replacement just in case.. I wanted to see how it goes..

 

[Billme]

Well, I’m glad I had ordered a remanufactured one.. I was concerned about that one trace, so I pulled everything out again, and put the new one in..No PO 500 so far, or turn signal, or wiper codes

I knew the one professionally done would be right instead of me worrying about that one trace.. Ford does not show those diagrams because it is considered a non repairable piece.. The remanufacturing guys know..
When these kinda spooks show up, consider your Expedition’s age and mileage just exchange it out, period

I’m going to push the easy button and fix the rear heater next.. I’ve had enough of under dash work for now lol

 

[jr1under]

When these kinda spooks show up, consider your Expedition’s age and mileage just exchange it out, period

Understood but, with the luxury of time, I'll take on an interesting challenge even when failure is a possibility. If there's no pressure to get it fixed ASAP and nothing else gets damaged in the process, that's a fun way to learn new stuff. Although it's not much fun to learn that what you've been working on isn't really fixable.

 

[Billme]

Well, they came back, but this time mode 6 caught it.. I wonder if replacing the CJB allowed that.. Anyway, I’m going to NAPA and just buy VSS from them.. There is probably more to this as we go forward..

 

[jr1under]

What are TID's 2A, 2B and 4B telling you about the VSS? Tests 2A and 2B weren't available for the 1999 model year.

 

[Billme]

To be honest I used grok’s explanation and it said:

https://x.com/i/grok/share/cSnLLO4uT2ZjhMxxncXzmSfAi

Interesting conversations and note I had to guide back on track a couple times..
Those test 2a and 2b may have been on my 2000 though..
I got to get some taller jack stands so I can get on my side to reach the area

 

[Billme]

Well, it’s been an interesting day.. I cleaned the connector 201 in the kick panel which is upstream from the CJB, and so far no codes.. It has been interesting to deal with Grok3 during this.. Quite entertaining if you read through it.. I was not up to par on mode 6 interpretation, that’s why I reminded grok everything is working but it was right about the limp mode…
I need to change out some spring pads on the rearend so I ask it what to use.. If you want to see that conversion, let me know..

 

[Billme]

Well the codes came back, but this time a clue, which grok explained.. This is only happening when I first start it… Hopefully x updates the conversation..

https://x.com/i/grok/share/iLptZntx9zpWOuWUjxExnkrsG

 

[jr1under]

Thanks to your posts, I finally dove into grok about a week ago and it's impressive. It interprets the BlueDriver results in detail(including mode 6) and then offers a procedure for resolving whatever problems are seen. I really like how you can refine the results of a previous query with new info or corrections. For a lightweight like me, this is gold.

 

[Billme]

Thanks to your posts, I finally dove into grok about a week ago and it's impressive. It interprets the BlueDriver results in detail(including mode 6) and then offers a procedure for resolving whatever problems are seen. I really like how you can refine the results of a previous query with new info or corrections. For a lightweight like me, this is gold.

You have confirmed my expectations..
I can only imagine what it will be like in the near future..
Times are changing.. It’s not going to hurt this fine forum, it will help it for those wondering.. Maybe encourage more answers for those needing help..
I’m narrowing in on my problem while it is also learning.. It’s crazy, and fun..
Now if I can get these old bones motivated to move, I can get on to the next fix hehe
Thanks Jr1under !

 

[jr1under]

Is this an accurate summary?

The scanner shows a P0500, a VSS-type issue, but you know the sensor itself is not faulty. Instead, some connection to it must be compromised. The state of the interior fuse box looked a likely suspect but is now ruled out. Continuing to search for the culprit.

 

[Billme]

Is this an accurate summary?

The scanner shows a P0500, a VSS-type issue, but you know the sensor itself is not faulty. Instead, some connection to it must be compromised. The state of the interior fuse box looked a likely suspect but is now ruled out. Continuing to search for the culprit.

Yes pretty well that’s it, but I have figured out if I clear the codes, and not turn it off, the codes never come back so, by noticing the very first code that shows up, indicates there is a low voltage? Momentarily that the GEM senses this forcing the PCM to cause the code.. My question now is, if it doesn’t cause the engine light to come on, then what level problem is it? Is there a slight limp mode or back up the PCM allows.. Everything seems to be working near normal, but I personally can tell a difference, even though it very small, but significant, and that is the shifting is slightly less crisp, and when you come to a stop slightly quicker, the torque converter is slow to disengage causing the engine idle to lower momentarily.. That’s it, other than that, everything works..
I’ve decided to do the easy stuff first and change out the VSS one more time, but put a new connector on, and see what happens. That connector was pretty well oil soaked in the beginning..
It could be the ignition switch, I had a new one put in, and like 90% of the parts I got didn’t work out..Can I get one from Ford? Don’t know.. Anyway, that will be next if this doesn’t work out…

 

[jr1under]

indicates there is a low voltage? Momentarily that the GEM senses this forcing the PCM to cause the code..

Don't know how relevant this is to your situation but I'm chasing a B1318 - Battery Voltage Low and B1323 - Door Ajar Warning Light Circuit Failure. Grok thinks they're related even though none of the courtesy lamps stay on for long after the doors are closed and there's no Door Ajar warning light. However, there is something drawing the battery down. It's less than a year old and the alternator is doing its thing(14.5V) but the battery is only holding 12.0V cold.

The point of all that: grok says for Gen1's, "the GEM is extremely sensitive to low voltage." And that implies that what low voltage causes the GEM to do might be random and unpredictable.

 

[Billme]

Don't know how relevant this is to your situation but I'm chasing a B1318 - Battery Voltage Low and B1323 - Door Ajar Warning Light Circuit Failure. Grok thinks they're related even though none of the courtesy lamps stay on for long after the doors are closed and there's no Door Ajar warning light. However, there is something drawing the battery down. It's less than a year old and the alternator is doing its thing(14.5V) but the battery is only holding 12.0V cold.

The point of all that: grok says for Gen1's, "the GEM is extremely sensitive to low voltage." And that implies that what low voltage causes the GEM to do might be random and unpredictable.

Well, mine is fixed for sure now.. The PCM power is supplied at two points, power distribution box, and the central junction box under the dash.. Although I tested the fuses, two had something wrong with them, probably hairline cracks.. Each one supplied power to the PCM, number 5 was the culprit, and number 13 under the dash.. Those two were taking turns lowering the voltage on startup also causing all kinds of GEM spooks..
It was effecting other things I didn’t yet notice like fuel tank vapor cycle..
With this said, you may see where your problems are associated with what fuses and maybe put new ones in place.. Do the easy button first..In the meantime I’ll reread your problem so I can think about it hehe
This one wore me out!

 

[Billme]

Your battery is doing like mine, infact you may have the same type problem.. I changed out all the 25 year old ones lol I used connection grease as well..
Remember though, I changed out the CJBOX, so you may find just changing fuses may not work..

 

[jr1under]

Your battery is doing like mine, infact you may have the same type problem.. I changed out all the 25 year old ones lol I used connection grease as well..
Remember though, I changed out the CJBOX, so you may find just changing fuses may not work..

It may not work but it's EZ and I already have fuses and grease.

 

[Billme]

It may not work but it's EZ and I already have fuses and grease.

I take one of the old fuses and ruff up the contacts.. I use it as a plunger type cleaner for the female contacts..if you use contact cleaner afterwards make sure you unhook the battery..