Should a fairly competent backyard mechanic attempt the dreaded spark plug removal?

[Trucker14]

Hey guys. I just posted in the introduction page about the new to me 06 Expedition limited I just bought. Absolutely beautiful condition inside and out. I just bought it yesterday. However, today upon heavy acceleration my check engine light starts flashing and during the 1 min or so of flashing, it ran slightly rough. Once it stopped flashing, it was all better. I'm aware flashing means a misfire. Had a Cadillac STS that did the EXACT same thing and I replaced the coil on cylinder 5 and it ran great after so I'm hoping all I need is a new coil pack. THAT, however should be covered under thr 4500 mile warranty I got when purchasing the truck yesterday. Even tho the part itself is less than the deductible, I may still have them fix it just to possibly weed out other issues having to do with it.

Here's where my real question comes to play. I'd like to go ahead and replace the plugs as well bc for one they could be contributing to the problem but also for future peace of mind with such a basic routine maintenance issue. However do you all think the spark plug replacement would be covered under the warranty knowing the potential hazards? Or should I attempt to do it myself to save money knowing they may not be covered under warranty? I've read all about the best methods for safely extracting these plugs by using plenty of penetrating oil or carb cleaner and while the engine is warm, slowly wiggling the plugs back and forth an 8th to a quarter turn using no more than 25 lbs of force.

It makes me nervous for how often it seems the originals break but I've replaced lifters and things of that nature on my jeep. Have removed the transmission as well. So I know how to use a wrench is what I'm trying to say I guess lol. So should I attempt it or just take it in and hope the warranty and the fact I JUST bought it keeps me from any big repair bills ? Lol.

Thanks in advance

 

[docraymund]

You should determine the cause of misfire first. Get codes read. Contact ypur dealer if the warranty also applies to spark plugs. Of course you can do it just take your time.

 

[Jb14]

Welcome. I agree with docraymund. If you do end up replacing the plugs yourself as stated take your time. You did not mention how many miles were on the engine but if over 100k the original 2 piece plugs should have been removed and one piece put in. With one piece plugs the job is not so bad. Remove entire air cleaner assembly and Box plus remove battery for the extra room. will take 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Use anti seize (not to much) and dielectric on boots. Good luck

P.S. if two piece get the lisle tool (I think you can rent, never had to use)

 

[Trucker14]

Welcome. I agree with docraymund. If you do end up replacing the plugs yourself as stated take your time. You did not mention how many miles were on the engine but if over 100k the original 2 piece plugs should have been removed and one piece put in. With one piece plugs the job is not so bad. Remove entire air cleaner assembly and Box plus remove battery for the extra room. will take 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Use anti seize (not to much) and dielectric on boots. Good luck

P.S. if two piece get the lisle tool (I think you can rent, never had to use)

It's RIGHT at 100k miles actually. So it could be either way.

I read that there's a ford class action lawsuit where I have until February of 17 to have a dealer replace the plugs then I can get reimbursed anything over what would cost for a simple plug replacement? If that's the case I might just have a dealer do it so I can get reimbursed.

If I remove the coils, is there any tell tale signs that the current plugs are the original? Like color or other markings that the new one piece might not share?

 

[ExplorerTom]

Search YouTube for 3V spark plug replacement by a guy named FordTechMakuloco. He covers it and how to use the removal tool if they do break.

 

[Trucker14]

Search YouTube for 3V spark plug replacement by a guy named FordTechMakuloco. He covers it and how to use the removal tool if they do break.

Just watched his videos. Although time consuming, it looks fairly simple and straight forward even when you need to extract a broken plug. Seems they key if one breaks is blowing enough compressed air into the area as possible so you're sure you aren't going to drop any debris into the cylinder.

From what I gather, I'll probably go ahead and just fix the misfire issue for now (hoping it's only a bad COP or boot but if worse, at least it's under warranty) and as long as a spark plug isn't to blame for my current misfire, I'll wait until warmer months to set a day aside outdoors to plan on spending all day extracting those little buggers. I'll run a couple tanks of seafoam through and use the carb cleaner to spray and leave for an hr or so and hope for the best but prepare for the worst.

My biggest worry will simply be the rear most cylinders.

 

[Habbibie]

This is off topic but that's a sweet looking rig trucker!

Those wheels OEM by any chance?

 

[Trucker14]

This is off topic but that's a sweet looking rig trucker!

Those wheels OEM by any chance?

Thank you! Well they ARE OEM ford 20 inch wheels, but not from an expedition. They are from a 04 to 08 f150 King ranch.

 

[catmandu]

I am with you, bro! I have a new to me '06 that is anything but beautiful inside and out but only 75k miles and the price was right. Me, I have no power, and catalytic converter codes, so I will replace those first. But, I have done the plugs on my Uncle's '03. Only one broke, bought the extraction kit from NAPA, and getting the broken plug out was a piece of cake. Once I do the converters, I will attack the plugs on the '06.

 

[Habbibie]

Well thankfully all mine came out without breaking. They all were original with 122k on them at the time. So the possiblity of it being an easy job is still there.

 

[Trucker14]

Well thankfully all mine came out without breaking. They all were original with 122k on them at the time. So the possiblity of it being an easy job is still there.

Let's hope lol. I'll just be happy to get rid of my misfire. I still need to break it to my wife that we just traded a 2 year old car with 10 year warranty for an 11 year old truck with only the 4500 mile warranty lol. She hates older cars. But I love them lol. So she won't be pleased that I already need to make this repair so the simpler this misfire issue, the better lol

 

[Jb14]

That is a nice looking truck! The original plugs in these trucks are rated for 100k (due to a divorce) I didnt change out my original plugs till 124k (they started to misfire) I had those changed out by a mechanic due to the horror stories but none broke. At the time the only single piece plug I could find was the Champion (ok but dont reccomend) I did the 3rd plug change myself with the Motorcraft (recommended) and the job was straight forward. Still loving the truck with 260k on the clock.

One thought can you call up who you purchased vehicle from and see if they changes out plugs? In most cases the COPs are good at time of change and some will opt not replace COPs (I did each time) but the boots have a tendency to crack as water and debris get into the plug wells.

 

[Trucker14]

That is a nice looking truck! The original plugs in these trucks are rated for 100k (due to a divorce) I didnt change out my original plugs till 124k (they started to misfire) I had those changed out by a mechanic due to the horror stories but none broke. At the time the only single piece plug I could find was the Champion (ok but dont reccomend) I did the 3rd plug change myself with the Motorcraft (recommended) and the job was straight forward. Still loving the truck with 260k on the clock.

One thought can you call up who you purchased vehicle from and see if they changes out plugs? In most cases the COPs are good at time of change and some will opt not replace COPs (I did each time) but the boots have a tendency to crack as water and debris get into the plug wells.

Thanks JB! I still love the truck regardless of this issue. Other than my wife's RAV4, this is the first real 4WD (by real I mean that uses a transfer case with a low range) I've owned other than jeeps. I'm a huge jeep guy, and still have my Wrangler, but decided I just wanted a half ton SUV for better pulling our camper with, and eventually pulling my jeep with probably.

I'm highly doubtful the dealer replaced the plugs. They said they did a service, but it's not typically the type of dealer I'd buy a used car from. Lol. Just a whole on the wall type of place. But I loved the truck and during the test drive it ran perfectly. Even wen I floored it. No running rough, no CEL, nothing. But the dealer gave me a 3 month 4500 mile warranty with the truck at least, but with a 250 deductible. So I'm going to take it to a parts store and get it scanned so I can at least hopefully narrow down the cylinder where the misfire is coming from then pull the coil and inspect it. Probably will inspect all of them but if I at least have an idea as to the bad cylinder I'll know where to concentrate my work.

Because I had a Cadillac STS do this EXACT same thing down to each detail, I'm hopeful I'll find it's the same issue with the STS which was only a bad coil. Simple fix. But we'll see.

 

[Jb14]

Trucker mine is a 4wd as well and is used off road. With an off road orientated tire you would be amazed how well the handle off road for the size they are.

Back to the plugs if it is narrowed down to the coil and you are unsure if the plugs were changed (with the horror stories people were changing out to one piece with only 60k) I would recommend trying to check one plug to see if one or two piece (being prepared just in case you have to do full job) You can find the Motorcraft plug on Amazon for about 9 dollars. One other recommendation would be to change out the Cam Phaser solenoid on each side of the front valve cover (58 ea for OEM on Amazon) get replacement caps as well. Simple job and will lengthen life of the the Cam Phasers (Check you tube for the phaser tick and how to replace) Look for the vid that shows how just from removing caps not the one where they tear apart the engine

 

[Trucker14]

I'll definitely have to look into that, jb. Yea, I'd like to make sure the cam phasers last another 100k if possible lol. So preventative maintenance on by replacing the solenoids for a little over 100 might be worthy it lol. I was shocked when I initially looked at the truck at the lot, when I popped the hood and listened to it idle, it sounded like a brand new engine. I'm not even exaggerating. I've never heard a V8 with those miles sound like there wasn't a tiny bit of additional noise lol. But it was smooth as silk.

 

[DS11]

I was going to replace mine this time (coil replacement), but I got lucky and it was the front one on the driver side. I talked to my buddy that works at a dealership and he said if you have another vehicle to fill up the sparkplug holes with carb cleaner and let it sit overnight. The cleaner will leach through the threads and clean any carbon deposits. Im kind of waiting on one of the hard to reach coils to go before pulling the plugs. It has 177K on it and I have no idea how old they are... Ive got an 06 XLT 4x4.

 

[Trucker14]

I was going to replace mine this time (coil replacement), but I got lucky and it was the front one on the driver side. I talked to my buddy that works at a dealership and he said if you have another vehicle to fill up the sparkplug holes with carb cleaner and let it sit overnight. The cleaner will leach through the threads and clean any carbon deposits. Im kind of waiting on one of the hard to reach coils to go before pulling the plugs. It has 177K on it and I have no idea how old they are... Ive got an 06 XLT 4x4.

Yea the two rear ones are the two I'm most worried about. I have chubby hands so tight places aren't easy lol. I'm just hoping when I get it scanned it shows a mis on ANY of the other 6 lol. Just not the back two.

And yea I've got a couple other SUVs. I figured I'd let them sit in carb cleaner or some other type. But do I need to break the plugs loose an 8th of a turn before I spray them down so the liquid goes down the threads? Or with them still seated securely will the liquid still make its way down the threads over night you think? I'm just afraid that 8th turn, if done dry, will be the breaking point of the plugs lol

 

[DS11]

He didnt mention it. Ive thought about pulling one just to look at it.

 

[Jb14]

I was concerned about the rears as well ( the passenger rear especially, just use a long extension knuckle then another regular size extension with good rubber in the socket and take your time it goes smooth. One other add after you take off COPs (before you take out plugs and spray with . Use compressed air to blow out debris in plug wells.

 

[Triplet Dad]

I tried the SeaFoam and carb cleaner but I am 3 for 3 on breaking them (2007 with 110k miles). Make sure you have the Lisle tool and an air compressor with extension wand before starting in. Also, I replaced the coil packs as I went and there was a faulty one which did what you explained (engine got jumpy and the check engine light flashed). I was never able to get a code from it since the light went off and the local service station said it's hard to get codes once the light goes off. As far as the class action suit on the plugs - they will only reimburse you if you spent more than $350 (I think) on the plug replacement due to them breaking and even then it is just the about over $350.