Spark plugs and compression.

[Calabrio]

I just did this over the weekend.

I think all of the videos consistently demonstrate that the process is the same on all the cylinder. I suspect that they don't show the "difficult" cylinders because it's hard to film and getting in there takes some trial and error.

It is not necessary to remove any fuel lines. Doing so just opens up an entirely different set of potential aggravation and stresses.

And I can't begin to remember how many times I thought I had reached #4 cylinder only to realize that, darn it, it was still #3.

But I would emphasize- get a 7mm universal joint socket and a strong flexible magnet. Without that swiveling socket, you just can't get to the the #7 cylinder bolt. And putting a 7mm on a normal universal extension just won't fit.

 

[smoothops]

I just did the job on my 3002 Expy, which has a 2V engine. I worked around the injector rails, did not want to open a can of worms, with extensions and swivels is not too bad. I found all of the necessary info online, a simple search returned several results, so I went through them and made my own conclusions. 2 of my plugs were pretty loose, so I heeded advise to torque them to about 22 pounds. I replaced the booties and used Autolite double platinum plugs and the truck now runs like a Swiss watch. Hope that helps

 

[rjdelp7]

A general rule of mechanic work is, if you never done the job and have doubts, don't do it. I read all the spark plug, nightmare stories online. I had the dealer replace mine, for about $160. I think the plugs are about $7.50 a piece and are OEM platinum, with the longer threads to prevent blow outs. That is $100 for no aggravation and piece of mind. I had the mechanic, save the old plugs, for inspection. They were not bad and did not need to be changed.