Strange drivers side window issue

[Kapitanphil]

Good morning Gents. I have a 2013 expedition. From time to time, my drivers side power window will stop working. If I pull the 15 amp fuse and reinsert it, it will work again.....the same fuse, not a new one. The fuse is not blown. Any idea what will cause this? About 6 months ago we had the motor replaced but it all functions fine. Weird that the fuse isn't blown, it just needs to be taken out and reinserted. Any suggestions will be helpful. Thanks!

 

[2020FordRaptor]

Good morning Gents. I have a 2013 expedition. From time to time, my drivers side power window will stop working. If I pull the 15 amp fuse and reinsert it, it will work again.....the same fuse, not a new one. The fuse is not blown. Any idea what will cause this? About 6 months ago we had the motor replaced but it all functions fine. Weird that the fuse isn't blown, it just needs to be taken out and reinserted. Any suggestions will be helpful. Thanks!

Well you could just try replacing the fuse.

 

[Timo2824]

Check for a broken wire in the door wiring loom.

 

[2020-MAX-Limited]

I have the same situation in my 2015 EL Limited. The first time it happened, I pulled the fuse and re-inserted and window began working again. Now it has stopped working again and I am dragging my feet to tear into the fuse box in the front passenger wheel well because it is such a PIA

 

[Modelcarguy]

We had something similar happen in our 08. Turns out somewhere along the line it forgot it’s programming. It would stop working, then would work, but not the auto up or down. Next day the auto up and down would work but not the manual mode. Was frustrating. Biggest problem was not being able to set the programming itself. You need forscan to do it. That may be a trip to the dealer and about $50-$75 to check the software.

 

[Kapitanphil]

Thanks for the responses guys. I have a friend with the forscan program so I will see what he can do. I'll let y'all know when I figure this mess out.

 

[KOTU]

I get the same issue on my '07 Navigator driver-side window especially when it's cooler weather. My thinking is that the glass binds within the track and as the motor pushes the glass up the motor overheats and stops to save the motor from burning out. I wait maybe thirty seconds and the motor will be okay and with another press of the switch the glass goes up. Sometimes I go through this with the window two or three times to get the glass up. The fuse does not blow because of the overheating protection inside the motor and the time it takes to test the fuse allows your motor to cool down. I appreciate your question Kapitanphil because you have inspired me to fix my window issue today. I plan to dry-lubricate the window's track and refresh the grease on the mechanism inside the door.

​

 

[Gregory Kennedy]

We have a 2010 Ford Expedition with the same issue. The window does not 'stick' at all, and is well-lubed. Has anybody solved this? I don't find it hard to pull the fuse and reinsert it, but it is getting to be a pain. And we have a brand-new regulator and motor in our driver's door, so motor burnout or overheating should not be an issue.

 

[00000]

Perhaps my long junkyard experience is relevant here ~ many reasons electric windows don't work on a variety of vehicles ~ one I keep running into is the switches are cheaply
made, fail intermittently when worn (or pepsi syndrome) are crazy expensive oem new
(or unavailable / tacky repros) near first to go on a fresh junker are said swiches => a
solution is to be that guy w/ the spares (for easy testing) pic & pay staff are people also
find a way with your innate talents to entertain them / ingratiate yourself ~ fun to dress
talk a bit like them => borrow your neighbor's mutt bus (cute teenager etc) just don't
hoard or dream of an eBay empire ~ karma can be a *itch !

 

[bodabdan]

The female sockets that your fuses plug into should be tight fitting. It's possible you are disturbing a poor fuse connection.
You can cut an old fuse in half and just plug in a single blade to feel how the individual contacts are mating. I've found a couple times that one loose blade can be a pain to find, especially if one blade is tight and the other is loose.
Accessory fuse taps that slide over the fuse blade can spread the female terminals.

 

[KOTU]

Okay, well finally, here is a solution. The issue with the driver's side window stopping has nothing to do with the fuse. The motor stops because the window actuator motor has overheated. This is caused by the motor straining to pull the cable which works to lift and or lower the window glass. The reason the motor works after the controlling fuse is removed and then reinserted is that the act of manipulating the fuse allows time for the window regulator motor to cool down.
Today, I unassembled the driver's side door. My intent was to put grease on all the moving parts, the guide tracks, and the cable that the motor pushes and pulls. The regulator cable appears to be a 1/8" stainless steel aircraft type. The cable moves within a sheathed plastic tube. Over time the cable oxidized. I removed the motor assembly (3 machine screws with T30 panheads) and greased as much of the cable as I could.
After I put it all back together, I put the window up and down several times. The window works better as I cycle the window in the coming days I feel the cable will move better within the plastic tube. If the grease does not permeate the cable far enough into the plastic tube, I'll do the operation again though at that time I'll try squirting W-D 40 into the plastic tube.

 

[KOTU]

Okay, well finally, here is a solution. The issue with the driver's side window stopping has nothing to do with the fuse. The motor stops because the window actuator motor has overheated. This is caused by the motor straining to pull the cable which works to lift and or lower the window glass. The reason the motor works after the controlling fuse is removed and then reinserted is that the act of manipulating the fuse allows time for the window regulator motor to cool down.
Today, I unassembled the driver's side door. My intent was to put grease on all the moving parts, the guide tracks, and the cable that the motor pushes and pulls. The regulator cable appears to be a 1/8" stainless steel aircraft type. The cable moves within a sheathed plastic tube. Over time the cable oxidized. I removed the motor assembly (3 machine screws with T30 panheads) and greased as much of the cable as I could.
After I put it all back together, I put the window up and down several times. The window works better as I cycle the window in the coming days I feel the cable will move better within the plastic tube. If the grease does not permeate the cable far enough into the plastic tube, I'll do the operation again though at that time I'll try squirting W-D 40 into the plastic tube.

 

[EffJB]

Same problem on 2014. About a year ago, I rolled my windows down while the outside temperature was decent. When I rolled them back up, the driver window regulator just crashed. So, I had it replaced. A month or two later, the deal with the fuse pulling and re-inserting started. Had to do so about once every month or so. So, the repair shop and I agreed that it must have been a bad window regulator, and they replaced it under warranty. Still the same thing happened. I bought a cheap replacement switch panel off Amazon. I could tell it was cheap, but it seemed to work. I thought I had fixed it, but the same behavior persists today. This ALWAYS happens in the up position, EXCEPT FOR ONCE when it was about 5° out. That sucked until I pulled and reinserted the fuse. I've read that some models have a control module that tells the window which direction to go, when to start and stop the motor, etc., but I can't find evidence that this model has such a module. Any ideas? Please, and Thank You!