The time is upon me...

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TORNIT07

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...to replace the spark plugs in my '07 Expy :hidesbehindsofa:
With just over 103,000 miles I anticipate there will be a fair amount of carbon build-up in the combustion chambers.

To prepare I have been adding cleaning/de-carbonizing products at every fill-up for the past month. I have used several different brand products including Seafoam, GumOut, Lucas & Risoleen (sp?) For the final treatment I'm ordering Yamalube **Ringfree. Normally I would not have used any other product except Yamalube Ringfree. However, I didn't have any on hand & due to a condition known as "Chronic-Procrastination" I failed to order any in time to begin "treatment".

My hope is that carbon build-up on the end of the spark plugs will have been reduced if not all together removed so as to prevent the all to common issue of the spark plugs breaking off while still inside the cylinder heads.

I will use the recommended method of cracking the plugs a 1/4 turn then spraying a decarbonizing/cleaning agent around the base of the spark plugs & allow them to soak. I will let them soak a full 24 hours or more before I attempt removal.

I plan to install Motorcraft Sparkplugs. I know Champion makes a one-piece plug that would be great but I am no fan of Champion plugs except in chain saws, outboard motors & similar applications. Autolite has a plug manufactured specifically for the 5.4L engine.

Who has used what brand spark plugs & any comments/suggestions, etc?

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**YAMALUBE RINGFREE: MY TESTIMONIAL

I first became aware of Yamalube Ringfree in 2006 when I bought a brand spanking new Yamaha F115 outboard. I followed all the manufacturers recommendations regarding care & maintenance. Adding RF to the fuel was highly recommended to keep the fuel system & combustion chamber, rings, valves, etc., clean & free of carbon build up.

I wasn't sure if it was doing any real good but figured it wouldn't hurt. Every summer I would haul my boat far north to Maine where I would spend the summers fishing. One year I had nearly 30 gallons of fuel still in the boat's 48 gallon tank. That's a lot of weight to trailer over 1,200 miles so I siphoned it into a 1998 Dodge Ram I used to have. It was my knock-around/work truck I had purchased used several years earlier.

It had a terrible spark-knock. It was a higher mileage vehicle & I was the second owner. The original owner did a lot of low-speed driving coupled with excessive idling. The result was above "normal" carbon build-up.
I went so far as to have the dealer service it. They "flashed" the computer to reset the timing & performed their expensive fuel system service/cleaning. Nothing helped. My only recourse was to run 93 octane fuel. Anything less & it would spark knock terribly. Especially during the warmer months.

So one late May day I filled my truck with 89 octane fuel from my boat which had been treated with the Yamalube Ringfree at "maintenance dose". There is a "shock" treatment dose for engines to clean carbon build-up, injectors, etc. I returned in late August & didn't drive my truck again until mid September.

I will never forget what happened next. For the first 10 to 15 miles the engine was spark knocking terribly on acceleration due to the lower octane fuel from the boat. As I drove around town running errands, etc., I suddenly realized something was missing. Spark Knock was missing. It was GONE! I mean gone as in 100%. Not only had the engine totally stopped spark-knocking but it had noticeably more power/pick-up. It didn't even sound the same.

I drove the tank to near empty over the next week then filled up with plain old regular 87 octane fuel. The engine remained quiet. The spark knock was gone. I was able to run regular fuel without any consequences. I was a believer from that day on in the power of Yamalube RingFree.

I began using RF in all my power equipment with excellent results. In my 1988 twenty horsepower two-stroke Johnson outboard which had been perfectly maintained. I performed the shock treatment first on the flush muffs. It smoked like a steam engine. The through-prop exhaust had black "sludge" coming out which was the dissolved carbon from the rings & combustion chamber as the RF did its job. I replaced the spark plugs which is usually required in two-strokes after a shock treatment.

The engine had noticeably more power at top-end. It idled a lot smoother which I hadn't thought possible as prior to shock treatment it had already idled very well. The outboard had a whole different sound at top-end. It had sort of a..."harmonic" hum is the best I can describe. The difference was tremendous.

I used to restore small outboards as a side hobby. I recall one in particular. A 1975 Evinrude 9.9 HP I had rebuilt the carburetor, replaced the fuel pump & hose, installed new points, condensers, ignition coils & spark plugs. Still, I couldn't get it to idle to my satisfaction. I had a full size test tank set up so could run the outboards at any throttle setting.

I added the shock dose of RF to the fuel & set the throttle at about half. Over the next twenty to thirty minutes the motor began to change "pitch", running smoother and stronger with each passing minute. The slight "tremble" it had went away completely. It now idled like a factory new outboard.

One more Ringfree "success" story:
I had a Craftsman lawn tractor I had bought from a friend second hand & took very good care of it. I had loaned it to to another friend. When I finally got it back over two years later it was in horrible condition. The oil was low & black, fuel tank cracked, seat torn to shreds, tires all flat & it had been out in the weather for quite some time.

The engine was running rough and had a sticking valve as it was steadily popping back through the carb at idle. I changed the oil, repaired the tank & added the shock dose of Ringfree. Ten minutes later the valve was no longer sticking. The engine smoothed out & was once again running as well as it did before I loaned it out more than two years prior.

I have more stories of my own first hand experience using Yamalube Ringfree. However, I believe anyone who has read my testimonial has enough information to form an opinion of their own at this point. These days so many products on the market claim to do this and that but often fall far short of those claims. I thought it to be somewhat important to pass on my own personal experiences with Yamalube Ringfree simply because it not only does what the manufacturer claims but literally exceeds those claims in many cases IMHO.

Thank you for reading.
 
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american steel

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soak the plugs with a spray that deteriorates carbon I cant think of the name right now I have a lot of stuff going on in my head, let it soak over night next day while the engine is still cold crack the plugs slowly.
ford offers a new design plug for the 3 valve.
 

DF5.4

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When I did mine I used the WD-40 RUST RELEASE PENETRANT SPRAY. I pulled the COPs off, blew the holes out with compressed air then sprayed that in. I let it set for a few hours then slowly cracked the plugs loose and let them sit for a while longer. After they were loose I worked them back and forth to get them out slowly. I had half the miles on the truck you do but I got all 8 out without breaking any of them. The ends of the plugs were wet with the penetrating spray when they came out. When I got it back together and started it I was glad it was outside and not in the garage. All that spray caused a lot of smoke when it started.

Also don't go crazy tightening them down. Get the torque spec and use a torque wrench.
 
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ezeq

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May I know the safest torque working them back and forth so it wont break upon loosening them? Thank you.
 
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TORNIT07

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soak the plugs with a spray that deteriorates carbon I cant think of the name right now I have a lot of stuff going on in my head, let it soak over night next day while the engine is still cold crack the plugs slowly.
ford offers a new design plug for the 3 valve.

I think you're referring to MOTORCRAFT CARBURETOR TUNE-UP CLEANER product # PM3. Amazon.com: Genuine Ford Fluid PM-3 Carburetor Tune-Up Cleaner - 16 fl. oz.: Automotive

When I did mine I used the WD-40 RUST RELEASE PENETRANT SPRAY. I pulled the COPs off, blew the holes out with compressed air then sprayed that in. I let it set for a few hours then slowly cracked the plugs loose and let them sit for a while longer. After they were loose I worked them back and forth to get them out slowly. I had half the miles on the truck you do but I got all 8 out without breaking any of them. The ends of the plugs were wet with the penetrating spray when they came out. When I got it back together and started it I was glad it was outside and not in the garage. All that spray caused a lot of smoke when it started.

Also don't go crazy tightening them down. Get the torque spec and use a torque wrench.

I plan to use the method you describe with some minor variations. I'll use the Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-Up chemical product referenced above to soak the plug-threads in.

May I know the safest torque working them back and forth so it wont break upon loosening them? Thank you.

During my research I learned that it's advisable to use a torque wrench when removing the plugs. If memory serves don't exceed 35 FOOT-POUNDS as that's the point at which the plugs can & will begin to break. You may want to double check & verify that number...just to be on the cautious side.

I'm not sure of the proper tightening torque...yet.
 
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TORNIT07

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That's for the tightening-torque. The 35 ft.LB removal torque I read in here:
AGCO Automotive Repair Service - Baton Rouge, LA - Detailed Auto Topics - Ford Spark Plug Breakage


Under "Tips to help avoid breaking Ford two-piece spark plugs" it says:
Tighten the plug and then loosen again, several times. Do not apply more than 35 foot-pounds of torque trying to remove the plugs.
 

ezeq

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Thank you very much guys. Good day to all, Ill let you know the result as soon as I emptied my garage and do my plugs.
Again, thank you.
 
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will be doing this soon myself. I've been coming across videos of guys zipping them out with 3/8s impact which I think is crazy but seems to work. no soaking or waiting for hours. I'm not gonna do this method loo
ill be doing the safe and slow method lol
 

DF5.4

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I saw that video too. It's easy to try that when it's not your truck. It seemed to work for him but I wasn't willing to try it.
 
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TORNIT07

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I totally recommend this tool, it made the change out a lot easier. I like How Amazon bundles the tools for this job too. get the lisle tool and carb cleaner too. Torque for install is on the spark plug boxes, 23-27 lbs... I did 25 lbs.

Amazon.com: OTC 6900 Ford F-150 Spark Plug Socket: Automotive

I broke down & bought the tool at NAPA. It's the exact same tool as the LISLE...actually, I believe it IS the LISLE with NAPA's name on it instead. It still refers to "LISLE" in the instruction sheet.

It's NAPA part # 77-4021
It was on sale for $79.00 plus tax. I thought I was going to have a loaner car to drive while doing the job but that fell through so I figured I best buy the darn thing to be ready for the broken-plug scenario.

I bought MOTORCRAFT SP-515 plugs. There is no reference to proper torque for the plugs on the box but 25 Ft. pounds is what I have seen most when I researched online. Did you use something other than MOTORCRAFT brand plugs?

I've scheduled the job for next week. April 7th and 8th. First day will be to soak the plugs for at least four hours. more if required.Second day will be dedicated to R&R...perhaps I'll be one of the "lucky" ones & all the plugs will come out super easy and I'll be through the first day....:big_banana_Dance:


Or Not......

:frown:
 
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ezeq

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Give us an update after. Thanks


2007 XLT, 4X4 5.4
 

f150dave2002

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I broke down & bought the tool at NAPA. It's the exact same tool as the LISLE...actually, I believe it IS the LISLE with NAPA's name on it instead. It still refers to "LISLE" in the instruction sheet.

It's NAPA part # 77-4021
It was on sale for $79.00 plus tax. I thought I was going to have a loaner car to drive while doing the job but that fell through so I figured I best buy the darn thing to be ready for the broken-plug scenario.

I bought MOTORCRAFT SP-515 plugs. There is no reference to proper torque for the plugs on the box but 25 Ft. pounds is what I have seen most when I researched online. Did you use something other than MOTORCRAFT brand plugs?

I've scheduled the job for next week. April 7th and 8th. First day will be to soak the plugs for at least four hours. more if required.Second day will be dedicated to R&R...perhaps I'll be one of the "lucky" ones & all the plugs will come out super easy and I'll be through the first day....:big_banana_Dance:


Or Not......

:frown:


I used the same plugs, Motorcraft SP 515.

read all the postings and watch some youtube videos on the change out for some moral support. It helped me. One of the methods I used was the turn the spark plug 1/4 to 1/2 turn then spray carb cleaner in to soak for at least 10 minutes but longer is better... 20 to 30 min...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHQxnG6Bd3o

Watch some of this guys videos on the spark plug change, There are lots of how to videos but since this came from a Ford mechanic, I liked the style.


Good luck, Hope that if one breaks, its a front one that's easy to remove.
 
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TORNIT07

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I used the same plugs, Motorcraft SP 515.

read all the postings and watch some youtube videos on the change out for some moral support. It helped me. One of the methods I used was the turn the spark plug 1/4 to 1/2 turn then spray carb cleaner in to soak for at least 10 minutes but longer is better... 20 to 30 min...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kc4-z-sT1ms

Watch some of this guys videos on the spark plug change, There are lots of how to videos but since this came from a Ford mechanic, I liked the style.


Good luck, Hope that if one breaks, its a front one that's easy to remove.


I have MOTORCRAFT PM3 CARBURETOR & TUNEUP CLEANER to soak the plugs. It's what Ford recommends. I don't have the aerosol PM3 just straight pour out of the can. I plan to mix it with PB BLASTER & use a small funnel type used to fill kerosene lanterns) with a hose attached to prevent spillage.

I plan to let the plugs soak no less than four hours. I saw one guy on YouTube that soaked his over night but he didn't crack the plugs loose the recommended 1/4 turn first...if he did then he didn't mention it in his video. I don't see how soaking the plugs helped in that case?

I've already viewed no less than six "How-To" videos on YouTube. I feel very confident about doing this job. I was a professional mechanic during the 80's and 90's. I'm behind on the new-fangled autos in regards to all the electronics n' such. However, I can still "get 'er done" when required!:smile:

I'm just a lot slower, stiffer & have to take a LOT of breaks due to certain health issues...the hardest part of the job, for me, will be the physical demands...having to bend over the engine compartment. I'll be feeling intense pain (more than usual) for days after.

Anyway. Enough of THAT...I'll give my self a quarter so I can call somebody that gives a hoot:Violin:

Just one question for you: As you did, I shall as well, turn the plug 1/4 turn loose to allow the cleaner/oil to seep past the threads & around the lower portion of the plug. I'm slightly concerned that the plug may break on that initial wee-bit of a turn. Did you experience any plug breakage during this step?
 

f150dave2002

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Just one question for you: As you did, I shall as well, turn the plug 1/4 turn loose to allow the cleaner/oil to seep past the threads & around the lower portion of the plug. I'm slightly concerned that the plug may break on that initial wee-bit of a turn. Did you experience any plug breakage during this step?

I may have, on the first plug. It was hard to tell with it being the first one but I didn't let it sit with the carb cleaner in it for more than 5 to 10 minutes. I used a video probe to look in the spark plug shaft and I did see bubbles coming up through the carb cleaner and I can assume from the cloud that emanated from start up after the job was done that carb cleaner was down in there. I used an air compressor to blow it out as best as I could.

I feel ya on the pain, my stomach and abs hurt for 3 days after I spent so much time under there. I'll share my broken one and what the other ones looked like after...
 

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TORNIT07

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Update:

Got a very late start Tuesday due to circumstances beyond my control. I had to drive my Expy several times that morning when I had wanted it to be sitting cold with the plugs soaking. Didn't happen. At 11:30 A.M. I popped the hood & put a small twin-prop window fan on the motor to help dissipate the heat a little faster.

At 1:30 P.M. I pulled all the ignition coils & moved as much "stuff" out of the way as possible. I sprayed SEA FOAM DEEP-CREEP In all eight plug wells. I didn't use the MOTORCRAFT PM3. The DEEP-CREEP had all the necessary requirements. It specifically stated that it was good for breaking up/removing hard carbon deposits.

I used an I-Beam type torque wrench on the first three plugs to get a feel for how much torque I could use before I broke a plug. 33 foot pounds was the max-recommendation but I pushed it to nearly 50 ft. lbs. I figured the long extension absorbed a good bit of the torque so if I went over a bit I'd be OK. Looks as if I was right?

All four plugs on the passenger side came out very easy. There was virtually no carbon on the shafts & what little gunk there was wiped right off with a rag. I credit that to the fuel treatments I've been adding to the gas the past six or so weeks. I honestly believe those treatments made a world of difference.

On the drivers side the first plug came out with relative ease. The last three all broke on the initial turn when I attempted to break them free to allow the DEEP-CREEP to soak down, etc.

Fortunately I had already purchased the special tool to extract broken spark plugs & did just that. The first broken plug took me a little longer to extract... maybe twenty minutes. The last two broken plugs took about ten minutes to remove with the extractor tool. One of those was the back plug but still wasn't too bad at all.

By that time the sun had set & my back was screaming at me to STOP as were my swollen legs. I left well enough alone & shall install the new plugs in the morning. Final report with a few photos tomorrow night.
 
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TORNIT07

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Final Update/Followup:

Installed the new plugs this morning. Coated them with Permatex Nickel Anti-Seize. Made sure to apply plenty Dielectric grease to both ends of plug boots/springs.

The odometer is at 106,400 miles. These were the original spark plugs I replaced. The engine runs like a scalded dog again...full power has been restored & ALL drivability issues are gone! The ignition coils are all original and functioning perfectly. I had forgotten how great my Expy performed. What a GREAT driving vehicle!

I managed to snap a few photos...if anybody cares to have a looksee.

And so, another chapter is closed in the life & times of me & my Expy. Another "alls well that ends well" happy ending if I must say so myself. And I just did :cheers:



NOTE: First photo & second plug from the left next to the extractor tool...didn't break in the head. It came out fully intact. I busted it up like that on purpose while attempting to recreate a plug-broke-in-the-head scenario to better understand a question I had in my own head when the first of three plugs broke.
 

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ezeq

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Cant wait doing my plugs but kinda nervous doing it although I have the extraction tool. Lol


2007 XLT, 4X4 5.4
 
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