I've seen several posts about a throttle body going bad and causing issues. Isn't it really just a butterfly valve that opens to let air in? What goes bad where that doesn't work? Is it some kind of sensor in a bypass tube or something that get's clogged? Just wondering how it fails and if it is something that may need preemptive replacing or maintenance. Any difference on the Eco-Boost vs the 5.4?
Throttle Body question
- Thread starter Dennis_H
- Start date
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JasonH
Full Access Members
Mine had varnish in it when I swapped it out. I think the gunk coming back into the intake is damaging them. A catch can would probably reduce the amount of stuff coming back into the intake.
*Edit* Mine threw a code when it was failing. It's a fairly inexpensive part and I tow, so I just replaced it instead of messing around trying to salvage it. I figured that was best chance of avoiding a repeat failure while on the road.
*Edit* Mine threw a code when it was failing. It's a fairly inexpensive part and I tow, so I just replaced it instead of messing around trying to salvage it. I figured that was best chance of avoiding a repeat failure while on the road.
Last edited:
Andy Rubalcaba
Full Access Members
have we started with the basics, such as spraying some throttle body choke cleaner in there? it's painfully simple, just remove the air intake tube and spray the cleaner in there, try to get a shop towel and wipe inside there after spraying as best you can ( plenty of youtube videos on this if you'd like ). the thing with our engines is that the throttle body isn't visible to the eye when you take off the intake, unlike other vehicles i've owned and worked on; so just go by feel, use shop rags and plenty of cleaner. don't worry about a tiny bit of smoke, it should be very very light and will go away pretty quickly ( the carb cleaner burns up and goes away very quickly ).
otherwise what would be telling you that you have a bad throttle body? i'm sure there are complete assemblies for it, but it's all a mute point until you try cleaning it first. while you're at it, might as well clean the MAF sensor and check air filter since they are all connected, and may produce similiar symptoms if you are currently having an issue. they sell a 2-pack at auto part stores or amazon, can get two small cans ( 1 throttle body cleaner and 1 MAF cleaner ), so it's a very quick and cheap job to do. should only need about 30-45 minutes if you're not used to taking things off and apart, I recently had my 7 year old daughter do all of the above about a week ago, so don't be afraid to look at videos and just get 'er done.
otherwise what would be telling you that you have a bad throttle body? i'm sure there are complete assemblies for it, but it's all a mute point until you try cleaning it first. while you're at it, might as well clean the MAF sensor and check air filter since they are all connected, and may produce similiar symptoms if you are currently having an issue. they sell a 2-pack at auto part stores or amazon, can get two small cans ( 1 throttle body cleaner and 1 MAF cleaner ), so it's a very quick and cheap job to do. should only need about 30-45 minutes if you're not used to taking things off and apart, I recently had my 7 year old daughter do all of the above about a week ago, so don't be afraid to look at videos and just get 'er done.
Dennis_H
Full Access Members
I'm not having an issue with mine, just trying to see what it is that seems to fail on these. t has a fairly large butterfly valve that opens to let air in. How much crap can accumulate on there that causes an issue, or is it getting on something else? More a general knowledge question than an actual issue at this point.
Brons2
Well-Known Member
It is drive by wire, not cable actuated. A cable actuated one is fully mechanical with the exception of a throttle position sensor, and would be less likely to fail, but could still have the throttle opening gummed up to the point of having drivability issues.
The drive by wire ones, there is no physical connection between the gas pedal and the throttle opening, it's all electrical.
The drive by wire ones, there is no physical connection between the gas pedal and the throttle opening, it's all electrical.
ynpmoose
Well-Known Member
Exactly. When mine died, the desired position was too far from actual, sending me into limp mode.
YMRacing
Member
I'm on my third throttle body. Yah, they told me they couldn't find any codes because they cleared each time I shut it off and restarted it. I hooked up my OBDII reader and left it in. I then had the codes each time it happened. I have a 2017 with 35k. All have been replaced under warranty, first in WI, second in IL, 3rd in TX. I now carry an extra one with me.
