Timing job questions

[GaryB]

So, my vehicle is making all sorts of racket, and it's due for a timing job. I've started it, and hoping to pull all the covers off for a big reveal of what's wrong tonight. I'm following FordTechMakuloco's video series, and I also have the ford workshop manual. I noticed in the video's Brian wants you to remove all the Roller Followers with the spring compressor tool. The Ford Workshop Manual tells you to remove six specific followers after getting the engine in the right place, then they tell you to pull the camshafts (in a specific bolt sequence), then you can pull all the remaining followers out. Does anyone see an issue with this? I like the idea of saving time vs pulling 18 of these things with the compressor, a slow process. I know if it's in the manual, it SHOULD be good, but would like to hear from someone that knows more than me. Thanks in Advance.

 

[rwmorrisonjr]

You're going to want to pull and replace them all since they are a major failure point on the 5.4 3V. I used the tool AND pulled the camshafts since one camshaft was scored. Both methods work, just need to be careful when reinstalling the followers since they can slip off their seats easily.

 

[GaryB]

RW,
Thank you for posting this. This is my plan so far:
-New Full FORD timing set (Phasers, guides, chains, tensioners)
-New Melling High Volume Pump
-New Ford VCT Solenoids
-New Ford Lash Adjusters and Roller Followers
-Inspect Camshafts and caps, replace as needed
-Pull Oil pan and check pickup. (and undo for oil pump)

 

[rwmorrisonjr]

RW,
Thank you for posting this. This is my plan so far:
-New Full FORD timing set (Phasers, guides, chains, tensioners)
-New Melling High Volume Pump
-New Ford VCT Solenoids
-New Ford Lash Adjusters and Roller Followers
-Inspect Camshafts and caps, replace as needed
-Pull Oil pan and check pickup. (and undo for oil pump)

Same plan I followed except I didn't drop the oil pan since nothing had broken apart when I did the tensioners and timing chains.

 

[max78]

I left everything on the valvetrain untouched and intact, I used a pair of vice grips on the rough casting part to hold the cams in position when I removed the chains. This prevented them from spinning, and I was able to rotate one into position during install.

That was about 50k miles ago. All the followers checked out good and the truck is whisper quiet.

 

[GaryB]

I debated the oil pan. It' not in my bio, but the truck has 80k on a Jasper engine. seems like every gasket is weeping. Might as well do the oil pan while I'm there. Not super impressed with the Jasper engine. Will be curious when I get in there if it has the updated parts in it or not. Or, even FORD Parts.

 

[Trainmaster]

I did the same job on a 4.8L 2010 Explorer with 135,000 miles. My followers and cams were fine, so I did exactly what Max did: I held the cams with ViceGrips. Just mark everything well and don't wash the markings off.

 

[GaryB]

UPDATE:


Bad Parts:
-Turns out the left-hand bank tensioner was very loose. Not sure of the brand of tensioner Jasper used, but it didn't have the FoMoCo type seal on the back. Basically some paper gasket material that didn't do it's job because the bolts were loose.
-Broken vCT solenoid (plastic tube separating from steel)
-LH Broken guide (the one with 2 screws, broke off at top screw).

I can't emphasize enough that it's worth pulling the oil pan. I found a bunch of debris in the oil pickup, and a fair amount of aluminum "silt" from the chains whacking the oil pump and front cover. The trouble is with the baffles, you just can't see in there from the front cover opening. It was worth it just for the 2 pickup bolts and the peace of mind.

I'll have enough pics and documentation for a more detailed write-up post if anyone is interested. Let me know if there is any interest and I can compile it when it's all complete.

I did learn a trick for compressing the valve springs. You need to keep pressure on the valve stem as you compress it. But, after a few valves, my fingers were worn out. I found a small pry bar, pushing on the keeper, and against the valve stem is way more comfortable, and you can see what you're doing. I liked being able to see it and know the keepers weren't moving. I had one that was stuck, that even though I was pushing with my finger, still came up about 1/8". I was able to shove it back down, but not seeing it is not a good thing.


I'll also have some used specialty tools (Crank Locater tool, Valve Spring Compressor Tool) to sell, along with some good-used parts (most of the guides, 23 lash adjusters, 24 roller followers (old design), Melling M360 oil pump) if anyone is interested.

 

[Trainmaster]

I love reading and seeing detailed write-ups and I'm sure others do too. But it's a lot of work. You can be sure if you post one, it will help out countless readers.