Towing Advice Please - Considering Aftermarket Modifications

[CarlzExpedition]

Hey guys, Looking for some feedback and advice from experienced towers and gear-heads on a route I'm considering.

I bought a '19 XLT 4x4 202a (no HD tow package) last December on a great deal from the local dealer ($12k off msrp and 0% for 72mo).

I didn't think much about the towing because the boat I have is only about 25' 5k lbs fully loaded. I have towed it up and down a mountain already and it was worry-free.

We are now looking at a travel trailer, and the 6k lbs tow rating seems to be the difference between getting something a little too small, and something with enough space that we know we won't grow out of it quickly.

I checked with the dealer and they don't have the same specials on an expy with the tow package, and they won't give me anything for my 10mo old XLT. So it got me considering a couple modifications to my vehicle to make sure I can safely tow what I'm looking for. Since (from what I understand) there is not a difference in engine tuning, brake size, or tire rating, I figure it wouldn't require crazy modifications to get my 6k tow rating closer to the HD tow package rating.

Trailer I am considering: 7521lb Gross Weight (5380lb Dry, 2241lb cargo capacity), Hitch weight 621lb

This is what I'm considering doing as my own "HD tow package":
1. Researching changing differential gears to the same as the tow package: 3.73
2. Air Lift helper springs for towing
3. Trailer Brake Controller
4. Potentially adding heavier duty Radiator and a transmission cooler

I just started researching the details, and so far nobody has gears available for the '19 Expedition. I called a shop that sells gear sets for F-150's and they said they haven't had a chance to modify an expedition yet so they couldn't offer any advice.

 

[shane_th_ee]

You'll be waiting a while for that 3.73 gear swap kit. The 3.73 in the Expedition is very different than the 3.73 in the F-150. The one in the Expedition is a hydraulically actuated, electronically controlled variable limited slip rear differential with locking function*. So it requires a hydraulic pump, a wiring harness and additional software to let the truck's stability control system make use of it.

You will want the upgraded radiator. The careful reader will note that the 4th gen expeditions do not get a separate transmission cooler even with the tow package...

*Yes, this sort of thing is what makes an Expedition more expensive than just an F-150 with a hard shell over the back and some extra seats. But it means you can just hand the keys to the wife or teenager and tell them to put the drive mode in snow instead of trying to explain all the intracacies of a locking the center diff, the rear diff, when to use low mode, etc, etc. It's also supposed to give you the capability of a limited slip rear differential and the capabilities of a locker.

 

[duneslider]

The easier route may be looking for a totaled expedition with HD tow and pulling the front and rear diffs and the transfer case and anything else associated with the system that is needed. I had to do that on my jeep commander to get the "lockers" that weren't there when I bought the model that didn't have what I really wanted/needed.

 

[flying68]

Just remember if you are in an accident with it your insurance will not cover you if you are exceeding your max tow rating and/or GCWR. You will probably be alright from a payload perspective. Also you won't have warranty coverage on anything that fails due to towing over the rated amount.

 

[Deadman]

By the time you get all the glitches figured out with the 3.73 swap, I think you will wish you just traded it in. Its going to be a possible nightmare and it might freak out the ABS, stability control, etc and have error codes that you dealer is unable to fix.

Good luck trying it, but I have a feeling it will get ugly. If you have lots of time and ability then try it.

Remember the 3.73 gets an electronic locker that yours does not have, so you need to figure that out as well.

 

[2019 Plat Exp]

Hey guys, Looking for some feedback and advice from experienced towers and gear-heads on a route I'm considering.

I bought a '19 XLT 4x4 202a (no HD tow package) last December on a great deal from the local dealer ($12k off msrp and 0% for 72mo).

I didn't think much about the towing because the boat I have is only about 25' 5k lbs fully loaded. I have towed it up and down a mountain already and it was worry-free.

We are now looking at a travel trailer, and the 6k lbs tow rating seems to be the difference between getting something a little too small, and something with enough space that we know we won't grow out of it quickly.

I checked with the dealer and they don't have the same specials on an expy with the tow package, and they won't give me anything for my 10mo old XLT. So it got me considering a couple modifications to my vehicle to make sure I can safely tow what I'm looking for. Since (from what I understand) there is not a difference in engine tuning, brake size, or tire rating, I figure it wouldn't require crazy modifications to get my 6k tow rating closer to the HD tow package rating.

Trailer I am considering: 7521lb Gross Weight (5380lb Dry, 2241lb cargo capacity), Hitch weight 621lb

This is what I'm considering doing as my own "HD tow package":
1. Researching changing differential gears to the same as the tow package: 3.73
2. Air Lift helper springs for towing
3. Trailer Brake Controller
4. Potentially adding heavier duty Radiator and a transmission cooler

I just started researching the details, and so far nobody has gears available for the '19 Expedition. I called a shop that sells gear sets for F-150's and they said they haven't had a chance to modify an expedition yet so they couldn't offer any advice.

Have you looked into the hybrid options? Might not be ideal but they weigh a lot less and sleep a bunch of people with popup style queen beds. Jayco Jay Feather hybrids is one example.

 

[Dice Roll]

This is exactly why I always post in buying threads about the necessity of getting the tow pack. You just can’t project your future needs well enough to decide a standard rig will do. Nevertheless, we have people that will argue that point.

good luck with the swap. I second the notion that trading is the best option.

 

[LovinPSDs]

Copy and paste from the towing section...

1. Going to the 3.73s is a whole beast of a move from what I've seen. It's an entirely different rear dif, programming, ect, not just the gears. That being said, a handful of people here have commented that the 3.55s (is that what you have?) work just fine... I've seen someone toss out $5-7K for the 3.73s with no promise it will actually work if I'm remembering.
2. I don't believe there are any air lift systems that will help you without being very custom. Remember this is an independent rear suspense car. Now what you could do is order a set of the HD springs that come on the FX4 or HD Tow package vehicles. In addition to this, many have had great luck with the sumo spring inserts to help stiffen up the rear end a bit.
3. Don't tow without a brake controller. You can add the factory DIY or the dealer should be able to do it for somewhere in the $2-400 range. Keep in mind, you do need Forescan to active the brake controller if you DIY it.
4. I would first watch your temps and see if this is needed before spending the money. Much is dependent on your location, ambient temps, pulls you make etc. Note the Gen 2 EB runs pretty warm compared to "traditional thinking". If you do decide it's needed, just spend the money on a high end aftermarket like Mishimoto or Full Race.

That's all I got...

Except, be aware this still may not make you "Legal" depending on weights.. simply makes the TV more capable.

 

[Borg_Warner_Turbo]

@CarlzExpedition I am in the same boat as you. I got a deal before Covid on a 2019 without HD tow. 4K off MSRP and 0% for 84 months.

I tow a 19' Wellcraft @3500 pounds and a pop up camper@2400 pounds. The Boat Trailer has no brakes, its too old, but the camper as electric brakes.
I am using the Curt Bluetooth Brake Controller for the camper here: https://www.amazon.com/CURT-51180-Controller-Bluetooth-Enabled-Proportional/dp/B07JQ99SDD
It works very well, and you can control the brakes with your phone, adjust gain, emergency brake. I adjusted mine and have not touched it since. With this setup DIY is as simple as plugging it in! There is a forum on coil spring adapters that disables two coils, that might work just as well as upgrading the springs.

 

[Ed Fogle]

Have you looked into the hybrid options? Might not be ideal but they weigh a lot less and sleep a bunch of people with popup style queen beds. Jayco Jay Feather hybrids is one example.

I had a hybrid travel trailer before going to a motorhome. Really liked it. Combines benefits of a travel trailer and pop-up. Like sleeping in a tent so more like camping but all the amenities of a trailer. Look at Forest River Rockwood Roo or Shamrock. They have deeper slides than a Jayco.

 

[Jay Mac]

Dont do this. Its not worth it and in the end you wont be happy. I tried to do this on a 2016 yukon that wasn't an HD. What happened? I traded it in, lost a boat load of money and bought an HD Expy Max. They only thing that I know of out there that will help with towing that is after market for the Expy is sumo coil springs. I bought them and they are cheap and effective.

My 2 cents is get the springs and the brake controller. And chance it to see it it works for you. Definitely do not get a bigger trailer than you are looking for. Skip on the diff and radiator. You might just have to throttle back and go slow on mountainous terrain. Or with luck, maybe your expy will do fine.

 

[Thomas Warden]

CarlZ, I was in the same predicament you are. Got a great deal on my 2019 XLT, but wanted to tow a camper with the same restrictions you are looking at. I bought a Ford OEM Brake control and installed it.(Had to take it to
My Ford dealer to activate it) Then I started looking for Campers around 5,000 lbs and tongue weight near 500 lbs, allowing me to have <1,000 lbs. of contents. I did it with my Jayco Jay Flight 24 (which is actually 28’ Long bumper to bumper). I towed it on a 3,000 mile trip down the east coast and back with no towing problems. Even pulling it up Fancy Gap Mt. (Virginia), the transmission temperature didn’t get above 210. I haven’t modified anything other than adding the brake controller and adding a weight distribution hitch (on my camper). Good luck with what ever you decide.

 

[joethefordguy]

Dont do this. Its not worth it and in the end you wont be happy. I tried to do this on a 2016 yukon that wasn't an HD. What happened? I traded it in, lost a boat load of money and bought an HD Expy Max. They only thing that I know of out there that will help with towing that is after market for the Expy is sumo coil springs. I bought them and they are cheap and effective.

My 2 cents is get the springs and the brake controller. And chance it to see it it works for you. Definitely do not get a bigger trailer than you are looking for. Skip on the diff and radiator. You might just have to throttle back and go slow on mountainous terrain. Or with luck, maybe your expy will do fine.

absolutely do not skip on the radiator cooler. towing does make the power plant run harder, and thus hotter. don't take the chance of burning up an engine. I would strongly advise a trans cooler as well, for the same reason. Hell, if i was doing this, I'd add an external engine oil cooler as well. Come to think of it, I am - i have the towing package already, and I'm still adding the external engine oil cooler.
I can't stress this enough: towing = heat; heat = shortened lifespan... sometimes minutes. trust me on this; once up on a time i had to maintain a fleet of heavy vehicles with trailers. I do know what I am talking about. since we were almost 100% offroad, it was not unheard of to cook an engine even with all the cooling features. towing is hard on the power plant.
FWIW, the hardest towing is in low friction conditions: mud, sand, and such.

 

[LovinPSDs]

absolutely do not skip on the radiator cooler. towing does make the power plant run harder, and thus hotter. don't take the chance of burning up an engine. I would strongly advise a trans cooler as well, for the same reason. Hell, if i was doing this, I'd add an external engine oil cooler as well. Come to think of it, I am - i have the towing package already, and I'm still adding the external engine oil cooler.
I can't stress this enough: towing = heat; heat = shortened lifespan... sometimes minutes. trust me on this; once up on a time i had to maintain a fleet of heavy vehicles with trailers. I do know what I am talking about. since we were almost 100% offroad, it was not unheard of to cook an engine even with all the cooling features. towing is hard on the power plant.
FWIW, the hardest towing is in low friction conditions: mud, sand, and such.

Joe - So that the OP understands what he's working with. The transmissions are cooled the same between the HD tow and standard with the difference being that the HD tow has a (supposedly) larger radiator, of which the trans cooler is integrated.

Now if you get on the F150 forums, lots of guys have overheating issues but seem to only be in the most extreme cases... Meaning 100*F+ ambient, LONG uphills and high boost for extended periods of time.

If I was the OP and intended to tow near the max of the non-HD's capabilities i would have no problems starting with a brake controller, HD rear springs (probably do bilsteins while I'm in there), sumo springs. From there, a responsible person can monitor the performance of the vehicle using PROPER gauges (not the factory dummy gauges) and upgrading accordingly from there. If OP is experiencing higher than average (mind you these Gen 2 EB motors run 200-230*F pretty commonly) coolant temps go straight to Mishimoto (bypass Ford HD Rad) and get the bigger/high performance radiator. One other things from the F150 forums... drop gears, drop boost and increase RPM if you start getting warm, don't lug the motor at high boost.

This is just my 2 cents.... Remember, none of this makes it legal to exceed factory ratings, I'd be comfortable taking a non-HD to the very limits of it's ratings though based on mods and monitoring above.

 

[joethefordguy]

almost agree. gauges are essential, and improved suspension, brakes, etc. are a must as is a WDH. However, when it comes to cooling, you are essentially advocating a 'wait and see' approach that gambles on ... what? if we do it your way, we load up and go and then find out we're overheating. After we're on the trip. Now what? dump the load, what?
I'm a big believer in preventative action, i.e., installing the most cooling ability I can afford BEFORE i start towing.

Having said all that, the OEM config is capable of towing a small trailer quite easily. it all comes down to what you're hooking up to. If he's starting to push the factory ratings, then he needs to take a strong look at any and every affordable upgrade. this is a time to get the experts involved... or just get a properly equipped truck to start with. in some ways, you and I are saying almost the same thing...

I am not comfortable taking my trucks to their limits when I don't have to. I want my truck to last forever. I'm not here to find out what it can take; I'm here to get where I'm going without breaking anything. I want to minimize the load on the power plant, suspension, and drive train as much as possible, by dissipating heat, managing the load (brake controller, WDH and such) and so on.

to be clear, this is what I'm doing:

• upgrading the radiator
• installing another, external, trans and oil cooler(s)
• e-fans are a possibility (still researching these - not entirely satisfied as to their reliability and effectiveness)
• improving suspension and brakes (very mild lift, being careful of payload here. I'm up to just shy of 10" of ground clearance, I'd like a couple more inches but I'm not willing to risk the suspension to get it.)
• since I have an 04 with the 9.75 rear, I'm considering a locker in the back and the front, but not the same one. I'm considering Detroit in the back and an OX in the front.
• and yes, a WDH, but not a 4 thousand dollar one. I'm sure that's a great WDH, but I'm also sure I'll never tow anything needing that. Not with an 04 Expy, anway. I'll be towing, at most, a two axle camping trailer in the 25' or so range.

 

[joethefordguy]

PS. I'm not saying you advocated a WDH costing 4 grand. I just ran across one looking for them and I was shocked. I would never have believed a WDH could cost that much.

 

[JasonH]

I suggest being proactive with the cooling upgrades as well. A lot of the load towing a travel trailer comes from the aerodynamic profile. Whether the trailer is 20 ft or 30 ft, you still have that large frontal area being pulled through the wind. Add to that the fact that you could be towing into a headwind and it's a lot of work for the powertrain. It's worth the upgrade expense to avoid any potential source of breakdown while towing.

 

[shane_th_ee]

I want my truck to last forever.

I'd just like to point out that the man making this statement is currently driving a 16 year old 5.4L. I'm inclined to think he knows of what he speaks...

 

[duneslider]

almost agree. gauges are essential, and improved suspension, brakes, etc. are a must as is a WDH. However, when it comes to cooling, you are essentially advocating a 'wait and see' approach that gambles on ... what? if we do it your way, we load up and go and then find out we're overheating. After we're on the trip. Now what? dump the load, what?
I'm a big believer in preventative action, i.e., installing the most cooling ability I can afford BEFORE i start towing.

Having said all that, the OEM config is capable of towing a small trailer quite easily. it all comes down to what you're hooking up to. If he's starting to push the factory ratings, then he needs to take a strong look at any and every affordable upgrade. this is a time to get the experts involved... or just get a properly equipped truck to start with. in some ways, you and I are saying almost the same thing...

I am not comfortable taking my trucks to their limits when I don't have to. I want my truck to last forever. I'm not here to find out what it can take; I'm here to get where I'm going without breaking anything. I want to minimize the load on the power plant, suspension, and drive train as much as possible, by dissipating heat, managing the load (brake controller, WDH and such) and so on.

to be clear, this is what I'm doing:

• upgrading the radiator
• installing another, external, trans and oil cooler(s)
• e-fans are a possibility (still researching these - not entirely satisfied as to their reliability and effectiveness)
• improving suspension and brakes (very mild lift, being careful of payload here. I'm up to just shy of 10" of ground clearance, I'd like a couple more inches but I'm not willing to risk the suspension to get it.)
• since I have an 04 with the 9.75 rear, I'm considering a locker in the back and the front, but not the same one. I'm considering Detroit in the back and an OX in the front.
• and yes, a WDH, but not a 4 thousand dollar one. I'm sure that's a great WDH, but I'm also sure I'll never tow anything needing that. Not with an 04 Expy, anway. I'll be towing, at most, a two axle camping trailer in the 25' or so range.

What is your plan for the trans cooler on the 10speed? I haven't seen anyway to do that yet? It is a heat exchanger and I am not sure how to go about increasing the cooling effectiveness of that setup? would love to hear what you have figured on on that one? What about the oil cooler, what is your plan there? Radiator should be simple enough to find a higher capacity out there I would think. Or are you just talking about your older expedition and what you plan to do with it and not talking about the newer ones?

 

[joethefordguy]

What is your plan for the trans cooler on the 10speed? I haven't seen anyway to do that yet? It is a heat exchanger and I am not sure how to go about increasing the cooling effectiveness of that setup? would love to hear what you have figured on on that one? What about the oil cooler, what is your plan there? Radiator should be simple enough to find a higher capacity out there I would think. Or are you just talking about your older expedition and what you plan to do with it and not talking about the newer ones?

since I don't have one of the newer ones, I am (obviously I thought) either talking about my 2nd Generation or just generally. Why would I be talking about a new truck? I get the OP has one, which I was why I tried to be general in my recommendations. I have no clue, because I have done no research, on how to increase cooling effectiveness for a ten speed transmission, other than the obvious -which we have all referenced - improved radiators and coolers, etc.
I tried to make it clear that I disagreed with the notion of ignoring the radiator as an improvement: "Skip on the diff and radiator." did I misunderstand?

What about the oil cooler? is an oil cooler difficult to buy or add? what am I missing here?
one of my assumptions was that any radiator upgrade meant for a specific vehicle includes the integrated trans cooler. For that matter, why wouldn't any fluid to air cooler, such as an oil cooler, work for as an added external trans cooler simply by plumbing it into the line from the trans to the [whichever] radiator. if no such line exists, then that is a challenge. All I can think of in that case is a radiating fin trans pan, if one exists for whatever model anyone is looking at. I know I've seen such for differential covers. not much, but better than nothing, I would think.