Trailer Sway Control (TSC) "fighting" Andersen WDH?

[ContinentalDrift]

This seems like an odd one- are there situations where the Ford TSC will actually exacerbate sway?

towing ~4100 lb (loaded) r-pod single axle travel trailer

I bought my 2019 XLT with HD when I changed up my tow vehicle from a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee and to my considerable surprise, towing with the much larger and (surely!) tow-worthy Ford and the WDH has been horrifying vs the comparatively tiny Jeep. I have major sway problems in anything other than perfect conditions and speeds over 60 mph. I’ve tried all sorts of balance combinations, tightness, lowered the hitch with a 12” shank, etc but just can’t get the setup to “behave.” I'm using an Andersen elastomer and chain setup https://andersenhitches.com/pages/weight-distribution-hitch. These systems are really popular and generally get similar reviews as the higher end friction bar setups.

In my latest foray into the Andersen docs I saw that there is a recommendation that I disable the built-in TSC anti-sway of the truck (which I can do manually every time I start the vehicle- a PITA, but doable). I attempted to re-confirm with Andersen and received this garbled reply this morning:

"disabling the electric sway built into the vehicle is something you want to do to help your overall towing experience. However, you may turn most of these "off" but usually turn back on after surpassing a certain speed. I would doubler check this with your vehicle. This, will need to be permanently shut off when using our hitch. If not, it would counteract against our hitch and cause for even more sway."

*Lots* of people in here tow with their expy's- has anyone run into this? How does the hive mind feel about turning off the TSC?

Other factors-
Trailer is properly tongue-down (1-2")
Weight balance is in front of the axle (I generally run with a full water tank which is right up front)
Trailer has a *lot* of tongue weight- ~ #700 (stupid single axel set up). We are still well within payload though

 

[mrmustang]

This seems like an odd one- are there situations where the Ford TSC will actually exacerbate sway?

towing ~4100 lb (loaded) r-pod single axle travel trailer

I bought my 2019 XLT with HD when I changed up my tow vehicle from a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee and to my considerable surprise, towing with the much larger and (surely!) tow-worthy Ford and the WDH has been horrifying vs the comparatively tiny Jeep. I have major sway problems in anything other than perfect conditions and speeds over 60 mph. I’ve tried all sorts of balance combinations, tightness, lowered the hitch with a 12” shank, etc but just can’t get the setup to “behave.” I'm using an Andersen elastomer and chain setup https://andersenhitches.com/pages/weight-distribution-hitch. These systems are really popular and generally get similar reviews as the higher end friction bar setups.

In my latest foray into the Andersen docs I saw that there is a recommendation that I disable the built-in TSC anti-sway of the truck (which I can do manually every time I start the vehicle- a PITA, but doable). I attempted to re-confirm with Andersen and received this garbled reply this morning:

"disabling the electric sway built into the vehicle is something you want to do to help your overall towing experience. However, you may turn most of these "off" but usually turn back on after surpassing a certain speed. I would doubler check this with your vehicle. This, will need to be permanently shut off when using our hitch. If not, it would counteract against our hitch and cause for even more sway."

*Lots* of people in here tow with their expy's- has anyone run into this? How does the hive mind feel about turning off the TSC?

Other factors-
Trailer is properly tongue-down (1-2")
Weight balance is in front of the axle (I generally run with a full water tank which is right up front)
Trailer has a *lot* of tongue weight- ~ #700 (stupid single axel set up). We are still well within payload though

Disclaimer: I wince when I see people using a "non bar style" weight distribution hitch thinking they can double as a true anti sway device vs a "friction style" add on, anti friction device.

With that said, since the triangle plate pivots and is held in position by the chains, the only way I can see there being a difference in chains individual tensions is because of the friction in the cone. Imagine if there was no friction in the cone and you'll see what I mean. The chains would always be equal in tension. But the tighter the friction the more the chains become unequal as the vehicle turns. If you stop while making a turn, even a slight one, the chains will be a different tension. This is normal. The difference in tension is caused by the resistance to turning the friction clutch. The failure is that the friction gets so high that it causes other problems and makes a lot of noise. At that point the chain tension difference would be extreme and adjusting them completely misses the point. Another issue are the brackets that are at the other end of the chains on the trailer tongue. I believe your problem with the Anderson will not be solved until they re-design their friction system and come up with something that is actually better. The amount of friction you get is reliant on the amount of weight distribution you dial in. Those two functions should be independent of each other. Keep in mind, the Anderson has two functions. Weight distributing and sway control, two separate functions, but yet, they are tied together as one.

In closing, there are plenty of people who will swear these are the best of the best, but clearly, they do not work for everyone. My advice is to find a competent trailer dealer who can properly set up your weight distribution hitch. After that, you can then duplicate the setup time and time again, and tow safely. Remember, the life you save may not be just your own.

Bill

 

[ContinentalDrift]

Excellent points about the hitch and I understand those limitations. However, I towed with the Jeep and the same setup (on the same roads) for probably 5,000 miles and had no problems beyond being dog-slow uphill. That's probably why I keep fighting this- it used to work fine and the only change in variables is the truck so I think that surely there is something wrong with the truck to Andersen setup.

 

[mrmustang]

Excellent points about the hitch and I understand those limitations. However, I towed with the Jeep and the same setup (on the same roads) for probably 5,000 miles and had no problems beyond being dog-slow uphill. That's probably why I keep fighting this- it used to work fine and the only change in variables is the truck so I think that surely there is something wrong with the truck to Andersen setup.

I'm betting you are trying to duplicate the same settings from the Jeep to the Expedition, or if not, you have yet to properly dial in your specific setup. I've seen far too many blame things on a tow vehicle (all makes), when in fact it was the improper towing setup for the trailer and the tow vehicle. Best was someone downsizing from a F250 quad cab to a Jeep Cherokee 2dr and a 16 foot open car trailer. First time they rolled up to the hotel we were staying at, parked it on a level surface, we all saw it and pointed it out. 20 minutes later, with some additional assistance, and he was good to go, never heard another word from him on it.

Bill

 

[JVinOlathe]

For the load you are towing, you really do not need a load leveing hitch. Having said that, a properly installed load leveling system will help. I am going to guess yours is not properly adjusted to your truck and a competent trailer dealer/shop should be able to help you. Also, the aerodynamic properties of you trailer will play a big role; if you have a tall skinny load, it will act as a sail and your trailee will be all over the road with even slight wind or when a semi goes by,where a short, compact trailer will be steady. Here is a link to one of the better videos on towing; give t a look and it might have some answers for you.

What Can You ACTUALLY Tow? Payload -Tow Capacity - Travel Trailer

Check out my new in depth honest owner review of the Jeep Gladiator! https://youtu.be/fMOtcX1oXxoSUBSCRIBE TO MY NEW CHANNEL FOR MORE CONTENT LIKE THIShttps:...

www.youtube.com

 

[duneslider]

I always find it odd when a product requires you to turn off a safety feature. The only reason TCS is activating is because it is detecting sway and trying to control it. The bigger question that should be asked is why does the Anderson seem to induce sway that the computer can sense and try to correct?

I pulled a trailer that wasn't mine and experienced sway and the TCS did its job.

It would make me question the Anderson hitch if you are experiencing sway that the TCS is trying to counter. It might be minor sway but what I can say is I have never seen TCS engage with my Reese setup. I think either setup is wrong, or the hitch is the problem. Too much tongue weight can also cause issues. I have heard that the cones wear out on the anderson and cause issues when that happens but I don't know what those issues are. I steered away from Anderson when I was researching WDH due to things I read about heavier tongue weights.

 

[Rossue]

Here's my $.02: we have a 4200 wet weight Escape 21 that I tow with my 2019 XLT for 2.5 years now. Prior to that had a 2013 Yukon SLT. When I picked up trailer new I had Escape hook up an Andersen hitch as that seemed to be the hot thing in 2014. Prior to that I had used a Cequent Pro Series WDH with 600 lb. bars with an Escape 17/ Highlander combo.
The Expedition is the cat's meow and I get 13-14 mpg on 87 octane.

The Andersen was a PITA to use compared to the Pro Series. Hated the triangle plate and having to straighten it out if I had unhooked at an angle(one chain attached, pulling forward and turning the opposite direction). Then the chains started eating my chain guides and then my yoke would open even with the pin inserted. I was able to get a refund from Andersen without any argument just before the two year mark. Turns out they were having problems, had people with Airstreams needing new couplers as the Andersen was eating the inside of some couplers due to the severe pressure exerted on the back of the ball. Had to have mine replaced. Have heard they have done some redesign of the cone material and perhaps a few other things, Yet my impression is most people like them because they are light and have good clearance.

Went back to Pro Series and it is easier to use and although I agree that a WDH isn't necessary for trailers under 5K#'s, the ride is improved in many ways. Less porpoising, less sideways push/pull from passing semis- just more of a solid feel. Although I have the round bars, those wanting a bit more clearance could use the trunnion bar model.

You should verify that you have 12-15% tongue weight and with a single-axle you should be slightly nose down vs. up- opposite for a tandem axle.

 

[PapaBear]

I tow a 7000 lbs loaded 28 foot travel trailer using an Andersen WDH with my 2021 Expy Max FX4 with max tow. I turn off the TSC as requested by Andersen every time time I start it, along with switching to tow/haul mode. If you don’t, you can feel the rig shudder as the 2 methods of TSC fight one another. I’ve just taken their recommendation at face value, and my towing experience is sublime using this setup.

 

[Polo08816]

Have you taken your rig to a certified scale?

 

[Zig10]

You can find a bunch of threads on here about the rather floppy rear suspension, and I would be willing to bet that is the culprit in the "feel" while towing it. One of the bar-type WDH will likely be a benefit, or you can try firming up the rear end.

For me, I have a tongue weight just around 580 lbs for my 7200 lb boat trailer (no WDH on boats) and it was pretty loose and white-knuckle towing with it when I first bought it. I ended up going with Sumo springs and the sway bar upgrade and that cured a lot of the stability issues. However, one of the biggest changes for me was going to a stiffer tire with the XL rating. It was night and day difference, and now I get hardly any movement at highway speeds even around rigs. The back just stays planted.

The sumos are pretty cheap, and the sway bar isn't bad either, but availability sucks right now. If you're at a mileage point where you're thinking of putting new rubber on it, that may be a good place to start.

Good luck.

 

[Polo08816]

You can find a bunch of threads on here about the rather floppy rear suspension, and I would be willing to bet that is the culprit in the "feel" while towing it. One of the bar-type WDH will likely be a benefit, or you can try firming up the rear end.

For me, I have a tongue weight just around 580 lbs for my 7200 lb boat trailer (no WDH on boats) and it was pretty loose and white-knuckle towing with it when I first bought it. I ended up going with Sumo springs and the sway bar upgrade and that cured a lot of the stability issues. However, one of the biggest changes for me was going to a stiffer tire with the XL rating. It was night and day difference, and now I get hardly any movement at highway speeds even around rigs. The back just stays planted.

The sumos are pretty cheap, and the sway bar isn't bad either, but availability sucks right now. If you're at a mileage point where you're thinking of putting new rubber on it, that may be a good place to start.

Good luck.

Good to know. I would imagine it doesn't ride as rough as a load range E tire.

Is there the magical combination of non directional, H speed rating, XL load rating, and 3 peak mountain snow flake rated tires?

 

[Squark]

I tow a 7000 lbs loaded 28 foot travel trailer using an Andersen WDH with my 2021 Expy Max FX4 with max tow. I turn off the TSC as requested by Andersen every time time I start it, along with switching to tow/haul mode. If you don’t, you can feel the rig shudder as the 2 methods of TSC fight one another. I’ve just taken their recommendation at face value, and my towing experience is sublime using this setup.

Does a message pop up when the sway control activates? I've read about it in the manual but never had the system intervene (to my knowledge, at least). I learned last time I towed in the wind that the car monitors for fatigue. I kept getting pushed around and the car popped up a message twice to pull over and rest. I guess it thought my erratic steering inputs were because I was tired and not from fighting the wind.

FWIW, I use a ProPride hitch and they also say to disable the trailer sway control. I upgraded my tires to LT load range E, but honestly couldn't tell a significant difference when towing.

 

[Zig10]

Good to know. I would imagine it doesn't ride as rough as a load range E tire.

Is there the magical combination of non directional, H speed rating, XL load rating, and 3 peak mountain snow flake rated tires?

There might be, but I didn't go for the 3PSF rating on mine. I ended up with the Continental TerrainContact HTs. I actually put them on both my pickup and my Expy because I was so impressed with them. I've got over 35,000 miles on them between the two vehicles, including snow, and they rank among my favorite tires in the last 25 years. Definitely not the same as dedicated snow tires, of course, but very impressive for all-season.

I think they did a comparison test on Tire Rack if you're interested.

 

[JasonH]

towing ~4100 lb (loaded) r-pod single axle travel trailer

I bought my 2019 XLT with HD when I changed up my tow vehicle from a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee and to my considerable surprise, towing with the much larger and (surely!) tow-worthy Ford and the WDH has been horrifying vs the comparatively tiny Jeep. I have major sway problems in anything other than perfect conditions and speeds over 60 mph. I’ve tried all sorts of balance combinations, tightness, lowered the hitch with a 12” shank, etc but just can’t get the setup to “behave.” I'm using an Andersen elastomer and chain setup https://andersenhitches.com/pages/weight-distribution-hitch. These systems are really popular and generally get similar reviews as the higher end friction bar setups.


Other factors-
Trailer is properly tongue-down (1-2")
Weight balance is in front of the axle (I generally run with a full water tank which is right up front)
Trailer has a *lot* of tongue weight- ~ #700 (stupid single axel set up). We are still well within payload though

I suggest visiting a scale and making sure that you have enough weight on your tongue. It sounds as though your tongue is light. Even small changes can make a difference. I once moved our bags and bottled water to the front of my camper to improve stability. The difference was immediately noticeable.

Load "E" tires made a huge difference for me. The tires don't squirm nearly as much with 65 psi in them. My camper is 7K, which is much heavier than yours, so YMMV.

Generally when I see people complain about sway, they haven't been to a scale. Then they ask should they upgrade to a F250

 

[PapaBear]

Does a message pop up when the sway control activates? I've read about it in the manual but never had the system intervene (to my knowledge, at least). I learned last time I towed in the wind that the car monitors for fatigue. I kept getting pushed around and the car popped up a message twice to pull over and rest. I guess it thought my erratic steering inputs were because I was tired and not from fighting the wind.

FWIW, I use a ProPride hitch and they also say to disable the trailer sway control. I upgraded my tires to LT load range E, but honestly couldn't tell a significant difference when towing.

No message that I can recall. Just a mild jittery feeling of instability/bucking.

Edit to add that I also keep tabs on every weight parameter with a scale and have load range E tires.

 

[GeoPaw]

This seems like an odd one- are there situations where the Ford TSC will actually exacerbate sway?

towing ~4100 lb (loaded) r-pod single axle travel trailer

I bought my 2019 XLT with HD when I changed up my tow vehicle from a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee and to my considerable surprise, towing with the much larger and (surely!) tow-worthy Ford and the WDH has been horrifying vs the comparatively tiny Jeep. I have major sway problems in anything other than perfect conditions and speeds over 60 mph. I’ve tried all sorts of balance combinations, tightness, lowered the hitch with a 12” shank, etc but just can’t get the setup to “behave.” I'm using an Andersen elastomer and chain setup https://andersenhitches.com/pages/weight-distribution-hitch. These systems are really popular and generally get similar reviews as the higher end friction bar setups.

In my latest foray into the Andersen docs I saw that there is a recommendation that I disable the built-in TSC anti-sway of the truck (which I can do manually every time I start the vehicle- a PITA, but doable). I attempted to re-confirm with Andersen and received this garbled reply this morning:

"disabling the electric sway built into the vehicle is something you want to do to help your overall towing experience. However, you may turn most of these "off" but usually turn back on after surpassing a certain speed. I would doubler check this with your vehicle. This, will need to be permanently shut off when using our hitch. If not, it would counteract against our hitch and cause for even more sway."

*Lots* of people in here tow with their expy's- has anyone run into this? How does the hive mind feel about turning off the TSC?

Other factors-
Trailer is properly tongue-down (1-2")
Weight balance is in front of the axle (I generally run with a full water tank which is right up front)
Trailer has a *lot* of tongue weight- ~ #700 (stupid single axel set up). We are still well within payload though

 

[duneslider]

Does a message pop up when the sway control activates? I've read about it in the manual but never had the system intervene (to my knowledge, at least). I learned last time I towed in the wind that the car monitors for fatigue. I kept getting pushed around and the car popped up a message twice to pull over and rest. I guess it thought my erratic steering inputs were because I was tired and not from fighting the wind.

FWIW, I use a ProPride hitch and they also say to disable the trailer sway control. I upgraded my tires to LT load range E, but honestly couldn't tell a significant difference when towing.

The time that I had it activate I believe the traction control sign showed on the dash, it might have said something too, it also in my case did a lot of braking and limited my speed. I was pulling a very messed up trailer at the time. I wasn't going far and after that I had to jump off the highway and take frontage roads to keep the speeds down.

 

[Big_O]

I’m towing 4100 lbs tow trailer with 2016 Limited with tow package and Andersen hitch. When hitching I always have to turn off TSC and change the brake setting to electric. It’s a PITA, but tows really well for me at highway speeds. I’ve also towed about 10 miles without the chains and felt about the same, the difference was the “porpoising” (bouncing up/down). With the chains it’s solid.

Maybe play around with the tensions make sure your distributing more than 50% weight to the TV.

 

[Dr0idattack]

I had an Andersen WDH and it was horrible. I had to tighten it past the recommended 4 threads, but it couldn’t really distribute the weight. It also didn’t really help with sway.

So I sold it and got an Equalizer 12k, and towing with it is night and day difference over the Andersen. You can save money on a WDH, or you can pay a little more and get stability and towing peace of mind.

I’m guessing the Andersen works OK on pickups or things with stiffer rearends, but I would never recommend it for Expeditions.

 

[GeoPaw]

I use my 2017 Exp Ltd for towing. We had a 17’ pop-up. I thought the single axel was my sway problem. Last Nov we bought a 27’ Jayco - dual axels. Still had the problem. Installed an e3. No help over 60mph. Was told by Ford the Exp rear end is factory set for comfort ride, not towing . Mine has HD Towing Pkg too! ABSOLUTELY nothing after-market to beef up the rear suspension. I was just told about the Hensley 3P-1400. $3400 but I might try it. Money Back Guarantee. Cheaper than buying a truck!