Trailing Arms and track arm are rusted

[98EXPY 5-0]

Did any of you guys install these trailing arms yourself without a lift? I need to do my lowers and I'm gonna do the uppers as well. I'd prefer not to have to pay to have it done if I can do it on the ground.

 

[Bremsen]

It can be done on the ground easily. Beside the bolt on the gas tank side my only issue was removing the rusted bolts on the axle. I ended up having to cut the bolts off with a sawzall (and about 10 blades for 2 bolts). Replacement bolts from the dealer are stupid $$ (like >$100ea) so I put in some grade 8, but I think you can order them from Fastenal for much cheaper if you want to keep metric. I did have to use a ratchet strap to pull the axle back in to install the new arms.

btw-I bought mine off ebay.

 

[98EXPY 5-0]

I just called Fastenal. $12.39 each for bolts (fine thread) and 4 days lead time. $5 for course thread and same lead time. McMaster Carr has course thread (2mm pitch) so unless someone thinks I need fine pitch, thats where I'll go.

M16 x 90mm Class 10.9 is what I had quoted. Is it the same for the uppers? I figure I'll do them as well while I am in there.

 

[98EXPY 5-0]

Do the nuts also have to be class 10.9?

 

[98EXPY 5-0]

My thought was to support both sides with Jack stands under the frame and let the axle hang. Then use a jack to support the side I take off? Working one side at a time?

Also, are there any tricks or problems with the uppers? I haven't found too many people saying they did the uppers.

 

[Bremsen]

Do the nuts also have to be class 10.9?

Yes.

My thought was to support both sides with Jack stands under the frame and let the axle hang. Then use a jack to support the side I take off? Working one side at a time?

Also, are there any tricks or problems with the uppers? I haven't found too many people saying they did the uppers.

I just lifted one side at a time. The axle did swing/twist away from the truck slightly when the LCA was removed. I don't think it will matter much if you do it your way, but you'll want something to be able to pull the axle back into location.

I haven't replaced my UCAs yet, but it will probably be done before too long, along with the track bar. Their design isn't nearly as problematic as the LCAs and the material is much thicker.

 

[98EXPY 5-0]

I bought my hardware through McMaster Carr. Class 10.9 bolts are $3.50 ea and a 10 pack of grade 10 nuts was roughly $10.

 

[98EXPY 5-0]

Yes.



I just lifted one side at a time. The axle did swing/twist away from the truck slightly when the LCA was removed. I don't think it will matter much if you do it your way, but you'll want something to be able to pull the axle back into location.

I haven't replaced my UCAs yet, but it will probably be done before too long, along with the track bar. Their design isn't nearly as problematic as the LCAs and the material is much thicker.

Well the driver side arm is off, but of course I can't get the holes to line up. What did you guys use to pull the axle?

 

[bojaz01]

trailing arms set

i found a set of all 4 trailing arms with bushings and hardware on ebay for $335, free shipping. Ive had them installed and they fit perfectly. my uppers were rusted in 2 and lowers, well, i could put my finger through them

 

[IL67BP]

I have a bit of a diff problem.. First time I replaced the bottom bar with on from thee junkyard they must have given me a bolt from something else because it didn't fit completely. Well being as I wanted to drive and didn't want a broken one I just put it in made sure that it was tight. Well long story short as you may have guessed the hole is now oblong and makes a loud clunk. My I dea was to have 2 pieces of. Steel welded to the current mounting point one on each outside hole and have them re drilled to correct side. The mounting hole I'm talking about is the front bottom one. Any ideas?