Trailing Arms and track arm are rusted

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JDMitchell

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I am looking for replacement upper and lower rear trailing arms and the track arm. All of mine are pretty rusted and I will want to replace these before they cause any problems. Anyone have suggestions for either an inexpensive stock replacement, or preferably an aftermarket option that doesn't cost $500+. I am thinking about taking all of the pieces off, and going to a welder and having them make me some replacements. Has anyone here done this and what problems, if any did you run into? It would be nice to know how much I can expect for some work like this to be done, since I have never had a part made for me before.
 

panda24619

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omg i cant find it. but spoon man, i think, made his own lower arms. i want to make some but a longer. for more flex. and some new uppers. and track bar. idk where i can get some. so i think i have to make them. haha not a big deal since i want to be a welder anyways. but somewhere on here theres a thread with the ones he made. ill keep looking. FOUND IT! http://expeditionforum.com/showthread.php?t=7677 there you go!
 
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JDMitchell

JDMitchell

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I contacted spoon man and he said he will post the dimensions. I am going to try and find a local welder and see what they will charge me to make some. If that is going to be expensive I will hit up the salvage yard and give them a good coating of bed liner.
 

sdaviddr

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I measured my factory one I have. From centerline of the front bolt to the back bolt is 20 3/8 inches long ,checked both sides twice.The bushing mount is 2 3/8 inches wide,viewed from the top.from the bolt centerline to the end of the arm is 1 1/5 inch at each end.bolt hole is 1/2 inch.Take these measurements with you if you go to a u pick u pull it yard.Check a 4x4 dodge ram with a solid front axle see if the front arms are same.or any other vehicle
 

jacks3am

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dude i cant wait till he posts dimensions, im about to weld some stuff up at school!
 

Jeeper

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I went through the same thing. Ford really messed up with this one. While my wife was driving, the driver side broke in half. There was no way I was about to buy new Ford replacements. So I made my own. They are adjustable and work great.

Control arms 002.jpg
 

Jeeper

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Control Arms

Yes, they are the same ones. I am trying to help people with quality replacements. It really scared me when my wife told me there was a popping noise in the rear. My kids ride in this truck, and there was no way I was going to use factory parts. :mad:
 

sdaviddr

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I decided to just screw it,ordered a set of lowers from PMT.Would have loved to do a cheaper way ,but screw it I need them now.
 
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JDMitchell

JDMitchell

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Mine aren't to bad yet, but they are bad enough that I am thinking about them. I just want to replace them so I don't have to worry about rolling the rear axle up underneath my expy.
 

98EXPY 5-0

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Did any of you guys install these trailing arms yourself without a lift? I need to do my lowers and I'm gonna do the uppers as well. I'd prefer not to have to pay to have it done if I can do it on the ground.
 

Bremsen

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It can be done on the ground easily. Beside the bolt on the gas tank side my only issue was removing the rusted bolts on the axle. I ended up having to cut the bolts off with a sawzall (and about 10 blades for 2 bolts). Replacement bolts from the dealer are stupid $$ (like >$100ea) so I put in some grade 8, but I think you can order them from Fastenal for much cheaper if you want to keep metric. I did have to use a ratchet strap to pull the axle back in to install the new arms.

btw-I bought mine off ebay.
 

98EXPY 5-0

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I just called Fastenal. $12.39 each for bolts (fine thread) and 4 days lead time. $5 for course thread and same lead time. McMaster Carr has course thread (2mm pitch) so unless someone thinks I need fine pitch, thats where I'll go.

M16 x 90mm Class 10.9 is what I had quoted. Is it the same for the uppers? I figure I'll do them as well while I am in there.
 

98EXPY 5-0

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My thought was to support both sides with Jack stands under the frame and let the axle hang. Then use a jack to support the side I take off? Working one side at a time?

Also, are there any tricks or problems with the uppers? I haven't found too many people saying they did the uppers.
 

Bremsen

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Do the nuts also have to be class 10.9?

Yes.

My thought was to support both sides with Jack stands under the frame and let the axle hang. Then use a jack to support the side I take off? Working one side at a time?

Also, are there any tricks or problems with the uppers? I haven't found too many people saying they did the uppers.

I just lifted one side at a time. The axle did swing/twist away from the truck slightly when the LCA was removed. I don't think it will matter much if you do it your way, but you'll want something to be able to pull the axle back into location.

I haven't replaced my UCAs yet, but it will probably be done before too long, along with the track bar. Their design isn't nearly as problematic as the LCAs and the material is much thicker.
 

98EXPY 5-0

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I bought my hardware through McMaster Carr. Class 10.9 bolts are $3.50 ea and a 10 pack of grade 10 nuts was roughly $10.
 

98EXPY 5-0

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Yes.



I just lifted one side at a time. The axle did swing/twist away from the truck slightly when the LCA was removed. I don't think it will matter much if you do it your way, but you'll want something to be able to pull the axle back into location.

I haven't replaced my UCAs yet, but it will probably be done before too long, along with the track bar. Their design isn't nearly as problematic as the LCAs and the material is much thicker.

Well the driver side arm is off, but of course I can't get the holes to line up. What did you guys use to pull the axle?
 

bojaz01

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trailing arms set

i found a set of all 4 trailing arms with bushings and hardware on ebay for $335, free shipping. Ive had them installed and they fit perfectly. my uppers were rusted in 2 and lowers, well, i could put my finger through them
 

IL67BP

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I have a bit of a diff problem.. First time I replaced the bottom bar with on from thee junkyard they must have given me a bolt from something else because it didn't fit completely. Well being as I wanted to drive and didn't want a broken one I just put it in made sure that it was tight. Well long story short as you may have guessed the hole is now oblong and makes a loud clunk. My I dea was to have 2 pieces of. Steel welded to the current mounting point one on each outside hole and have them re drilled to correct side. The mounting hole I'm talking about is the front bottom one. Any ideas?
 
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