Transmission Coolers Install

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tekrsq

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Interesting. Like you said there are tons of information regarding the "ideal temps". I've been wondering about what temps are actually safe for the 4r100. I know they have the trans behind diesels, and they are pulling heavier loads then we'll ever pull with our Expys. I know the diesel versions have a "cooler bypass line" that commonly have issues with the bypass valve, which causes high temps...and frequently get deleted. I haven't been under mine recently to see if it has the bypass cooler line. If it does, I'll probably delete it, and see if that helps any with temps. In the mean time, I think I'm going to order another Hayden. Due to several arm surgeries, I haven't been doing a lot this summer, so I haven't been pulling what I normally do. I need this thing to last me for a while, so I need to take care of her.
 
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Jim Brown

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Craig I think it doesn't matter, they're about equal. I chose the tee's because shorter hoses.

I found 10 bar oil hose for 2 bucks a foot at AutoZone. Made in Thailand, seems like good stuff.
 
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Jim Brown

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Just checked, my 4r100 has the bypass line. I think I will replace it with new OEM Ford part or rebuild it with the sonnax kit. No idea if the checkball is leaking, but after reading all the different ways to test it, the cost and time to test would be at least equal to replacing or rebuilding. IMG_20200814_155209476.jpg
 

tekrsq

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I looked at mine earlier too. It is UGLY. Very corroded line, AND it looks like it's going to be an absolute joy to replace or delete. UGH !!! I guess it's time to do research.
 
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Jim Brown

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I think there's not much room at the forward fitting because of the heat shield. Should be an adventure reaching up there. Maybe a metric tappet wrench would be long enough to loosen the banjo bolt. Cleaning around it, if I can't reach my hand up there I'll tape a brush to a stick to scrub the area clean before removing. And getting the banjo bolt started gently to avoid cross threading.

I'll remove the back line first and check flow thru the coolers. 10' of clear 3/8 plastic line is $5 at home depot so I'll try the hose into funnel method and look for the proverbial 1qt in 15 seconds. The radiator is a year old, aux cooler is original, maybe there's a clog somewhere, and I'll find source of overheating, if it's not the bypass valve itself.

Too bad you found rust, but maybe fortunate to replace it now to avoid a pinhole leak later. Searching
2C3Z-7H322-BA shows two variants for the forward end. One style has a separate branching connection for the transmission pipe, the other they're stacked with a longer banjo bolt. I'll have to confirm but I think mine has the stacked style.

It makes sense the spring would take a set and cracking pressure would be less after many years. Same as gunsprings, leave a mag loaded for a long time, mag spring takes a set, and the stack of loaded ammo won't advance fast enough to feed next round.

I think this is the one I need
s-l1600.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Motor...202937&hash=item1a841e6654:g:E~YAAOSwXhRdek44

 

tekrsq

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Yeah, I can't even see my front fitting because of the heat shield. I found a couple of older truck forums that talked about the bypass tube, and said they had to drop the exhaust to remove the heat shield. I'm not sure I want to screw with that much...especially since I'm still not 100% yet from rotator cuff surgery. They also talked about the different tubes. Supposedly, there were at least 3 versions of the 4r100 during 99-01yrs. Supposedly, there is a plate of some type near the shifter linkage with a serial # that ID's which version it is.

If it ever stops raining, I'm going to see if I can evaluate the tube further. Hopefully it's just surface rust. The rest of my undercarriage is fine. I'm not sure why that one tube would look like that. Anyway, I'm going to check for restrictions as well
 

craig sargood

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Just checked, my 4r100 has the bypass line. I think I will replace it with new OEM Ford part or rebuild it with the sonnax kit. No idea if the checkball is leaking, but after reading all the different ways to test it, the cost and time to test would be at least equal to replacing or rebuilding. View attachment 37643
I did the removal kit, it doesn’t really get too cold here. The kit doesn’t come with much other than a couple sleeves and gaskets. Haven’t had any problems yet. Hopefully never.

48BFCAAB-B00F-4B6F-88E3-C8A0018A23A2.jpeg

2AA21EC0-B871-4DD8-8333-5423672088FF.jpeg
 

craig sargood

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I looked at mine earlier too. It is UGLY. Very corroded line, AND it looks like it's going to be an absolute joy to replace or delete. UGH !!! I guess it's time to do research.
Mine wasn’t too bad to do, but I do have a body lift, so I’m sure that helps.

FA50F97C-199D-49CC-AE7E-FA43F3144E79.jpeg
 
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