Truck won't come out of park.

[ARiley23]

did you check for power at the brake light switch?

Just checked it with a multimeter and it was getting nothing. Never used a multimeter before so not really sure what setting to put it on but I switched through all of them and switched the prongs around and it read 0 the whole time. So I'm guessing it has no power
This was with truck running and pressing the brake.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[Big Brian]

ok now we are getting someplace. Put the meter on the DC scale, it need to be on the 0-15 v or similar scale if its not auto ranging

Now take the negative (black) volt meter lead and touch it to a good ground, bare metal under the dash near the switch someplace. take the pother lead and probe the connector, it should read 12 v or so. key doesnt have to be on for the brake lights to come on, so you should have power at one of those 2 leads to the switch. dont have to push the pedal down to have power at one of those 2 wires

 

[Big Brian]

just FYI you have the brake switch and the neutral safety switch. They tell the shift interlock solenoid that its ok to put the trans in gear. Here is one for your vehicle.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...sion-automatic,shift+interlock+solenoid,16116

not saying this is the problem the system needs to be properly diagnosed, but its more than just the brake light switch that is in this circuit

my bet is a blown fuse or loose/bad connection someplace

 

[juan214]

If no brake lights (including third brake light) your missing power to them.

• Check Fuse #13 a 20 amp under the dash is the brake pedal position switch fuse.

1. Blown: Replace fuse
2. Good: Test the power to switch

• Test the power to switch (usually the top wire 12V constant)

1. No Power: There is a short between fuse and switch (hope the correct fuse was in place). Double check the fuse again.
2. Yes Power: Test power coming out when you hit the brakes.

• Test power coming out of switch. Press brake pedal.

1. No Power: Replace switch (faulty)
2. Yes Power: Check Power at brake light socket

At this point the gear selector should be moving.

• Power at brake light socket.

1. No: Short between switch and light socket. Trace and repair.
2. Yes: Change bulbs and your selector problem is elsewhere.

Do this at your own risk: Looks like you have the two wire connection (w/o power petals).

• Bypass brake switch

1. Pull harness
2. With a 20 amp or less fuse and fuse holder jump the connector. Connect one end to powered lead and the other to the brake light lead.

Your brake lights will be activate and selector should be unlocked and move. If the fuse blows there is a short in the system

• Power up your brake lights. To test your lights.

1. Connect the fuse holder the lead not powered in the connector
2. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to a 12V power source.

Your Brake lights should be on.

Good Luck.

 

[Big Brian]

excellent Juan!

thanks

 

[juan214]

No problem Brian

I say the same bet is a blown fuse or loose/bad connection someplace

Is the battery dead in the multi-tester?

Test light would be quicker and easier for this test.

 

[Dewayne]

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