Upgrading rear differential??

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17limited

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I have a 17 Limited 2wd with 315 gears, no limited slip. If I were to change to 373 with a locker or LS differential, could Ford simply program the truck to recognize the change or would I have to go with a tuner and void the warranty? I pull a couple different boats in the Ozark mountains and so far havent had any issues with the 4500 lb boat but havent yet hooked up to the 8k lb boat.

Truck is stock down to paper air filter, 29k miles
 

ExplorerTom

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4wd? If so you’d need to also do the front.

But yes, should be a simple matter of someone (maybe a dealership would do it) reprogramming it.
 

Dr0idattack

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I'm curious if this is possible. I have a 2013 with the tow package but it doesn't have the towing rear-end (I guess Ford did that for awhile in Expeditions). It tows ok but I'd like it to have more grunt with a trailer.
 

HawkX66

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Yes, it's an easy reprogram. You can even do it yourself with Forscan. Like mentioned earlier, if you have 4wd you'll need to do both front and rear. You can't just do the rear.
 

Plati

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This has come up before. The general consensus seemed to be "buy it that way to begin with instead of changing". Unless you are a **** bang mechanic who can make this change in 45 minutes.

If there is such a thing as general consensus on a Forum.
 

HawkX66

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Nothing wrong with changing gears. Guys do it all the time for one reason or another. It is not the type of thing the average DIYer does though. You need to know how to set backlash, preload and have a few special tools.
 
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17limited

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I wouldnt swap the gear set out myself but have a local shop that has changed a dozen or so sets out for me in mustangs over the years . Very competent guys but I'm wanting to know all the details needed to do it right besides just the mechanical part. Not trying to void any warranty going with a custom tune just yet
 

HawkX66

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I wouldnt swap the gear set out myself but have a local shop that has changed a dozen or so sets out for me in mustangs over the years . Very competent guys but I'm wanting to know all the details needed to do it right besides just the mechanical part. Not trying to void any warranty going with a custom tune just yet
No tune necessary. It's an easy setting change using Forscan.
 

Cyclone

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My 2015 XLT has an open diff. I was hoping to add a E-Locker. I called my brother who is a Ford Parts Mgr. He told me that there are a ton of parts involved in the E-Locker and to pretty much forget that idea. He did say that going to a Limited Slip diff was pretty straight forward.

I brought this up to my Mechanic buddy who pretty much said that replacing the diff isn't that easy and its going to cost even if it wasn't changing out to a LS.
 

HawkX66

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If it's crazy money for the gear swap, a used full diff carrier can be had for not too much. Might be a cheaper alternative. Pretty easy swap for the most part. I just did the front diff in my 17.
 

gtncpa

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Looking for an EtonTrutrack if you are going to open the pumpkin anyway.
 

rjdelp7

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Half or more of the Fox body Mustangs owners, changed the ring and pinion to 3.55 or 3.75. It is night and day difference, off the line. I don't see a need for a locker, it doesn't make enough power and has traction control. A 9" ring and pinion set is $100-150, plus a couple of hours labor. An experienced shop is recommended. Setting the backlash must be perfect, or the gears will whine or bind.
 

HawkX66

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$200 plus a couple hours labor if you're going turtles pace can get you a complete factory rear end in your Expy that doesn't need to be set up. If it were going in my 69 Camaro I'd change the ring and pinion, but not in an Expy. Just not necessary with all the practically new rear ends sitting in bone yards.

http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?userSearch=int&userPID=1000&userLocation=All+States&userIMS=&userInterchange=>B@AP&userSide=&userDate=2017&userDate2=2017&dbModel=27.14.1.1&userModel=Ford Expedition&dbPart=440.1&userPart=Carrier (see also Differential)&sessionID=14000000009109439&userPreference=price&userZip=23091&userLat=37.6804000&userLong=-76.7974000&userIntSelect=824254&userUID=0&userBroker=&iKey=&userPage=3


Disconnect and support the rear driveshaft.


1. Index mark the driveshaft and pinion flange.

2. Remove and discard the driveshaft flange to pinion flange bolts.

n Tighten the new driveshaft flange bolts to 103 Nm (76 lb-ft).


3. Using a prybar, separate the driveshaft flange from the pinion flange.

4. Support the driveshaft.

4. Using a suitable jack, support the axle housing.

5. Remove the spare tire.

6. Remove the 2 insulator stud nuts.

l To install, tighten to 133 Nm (98 lb-ft).


7. Remove the front torque arm nut.

l To install, tighten to 133 Nm (98 lb-ft).

8. NOTE: Move the axle housing forward to clear the rear mounting studs from the bushings.


Lower the axle housing from the vehicle.
 
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gtncpa

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Very detailed list! Yes ... if done wrong... it is a b?tch!
 

gtncpa

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Not my list, it's Fords. ;-) I just copied it from my service manual.
Take credit! I went thru the process on my Mustang. 11 years later ... still no issues ... but there are horror stories out there.
 
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