Water boiling sound

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

Hey everyone got a quick question! I noticed the other day my truck is making what sounds like a water boiling sound wondering if anyone has dealt with this and can maybe point me in the right direction on what route I can take the part I noticed it at was where it's a T, and you can tell as well.

The part I have in question is outlined in blue, any and all input is greatly appreciated!!!

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[JExpedition07]

If it sounds like a gurgling sound it could be air pockets in coolant your hearing. A lot of people have had it where they hear gurgling moving through the heater core. I'm not quite so sure that is what your experiencing. There are quite a few ways air can get into coolant some are no big deal and some are. For example some older expeditions had combustion gases get into the system caused by leaky head gaskets but I haven't seen that on 3rd gens. Just a long shot.

 

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

If it sounds like a gurgling sound it could be air pockets in coolant your hearing. A lot of people have had it where they hear gurgling moving through the heater core. I'm not quite so sure that is what your experiencing. There are quite a few ways air can get into coolant some are no big deal and some are. For example some older expeditions had combustion gases get into the system caused by leaky head gaskets but I haven't seen that on 3rd gens. Just a long shot.

Okay thanks for the heads up, when the truck is running you can see where it's "leaking" and bubbling, so that's why I'm trying to see what I can do to fix it.

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[Big Brian]

that's the heater hose assembly

if its leaking replace it

 

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

that's the heater hose assembly

if its leaking replace it

Can I get the part just at autozone or do I have to go through the dealership?

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[drewactual]

that leak allows air to be introduced into what is supposed to be a closed system... the gurgling could be attributed to that air, or it could actually be boiling.

closed, the point of boiling is controlled by the pressure on the system... for instance, at sea level water boils at 212*... water+proper ratio of coolant may raise it to 215*... 1 pound of pressure on the system will allow the boil point to raise another 4* or so- so a 1# cap forces the boil point to around 220*. a 15# pressure on the system and if that system is closed doesn't boil until around 260~270*.... i tell you thins to stress the importance of having a healthy and 'closed' system.

boiling water doesn't cool as it's being turned to air, which makes things hotter. furthermore, when those bubbles break free of liquid form, they slap whatever metal is around them with force and work like sandblasting media, otherwise known as cavitation. cavitation destroys water pumps with a quickness, and it tears the film created by various coolants on hard parts off, and those chunks of goo will clog a radiator with a quickness.

if it's your heater core (likely) that is leaking, bypass it until you can fix the situation.

 

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

that leak allows air to be introduced into what is supposed to be a closed system... the gurgling could be attributed to that air, or it could actually be boiling.

closed, the point of boiling is controlled by the pressure on the system... for instance, at sea level water boils at 212*... water+proper ratio of coolant may raise it to 215*... 1 pound of pressure on the system will allow the boil point to raise another 4* or so- so a 1# cap forces the boil point to around 220*. a 15# pressure on the system and if that system is closed doesn't boil until around 260~270*.... i tell you thins to stress the importance of having a healthy and 'closed' system.

boiling water doesn't cool as it's being turned to air, which makes things hotter. furthermore, when those bubbles break free of liquid form, they slap whatever metal is around them with force and work like sandblasting media, otherwise known as cavitation. cavitation destroys water pumps with a quickness, and it tears the film created by various coolants on hard parts off, and those chunks of goo will clog a radiator with a quickness.

if it's your heater core (likely) that is leaking, bypass it until you can fix the situation.

Thanks man! As you can tell in the picture you can see where water is coming out of the house connection, what's best way to bypass it? I really just want to fix it right and be done.

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[drewactual]

fomoco likes there little oring lined quick fittings.... I can't tell where it's leaking by the picture, but i can tell you those oring lined quick fittings rarely burst if seated properly and not messed with.... that leaves the band clamp in the far right of the picture suspect... that is NOT stock, that is where somebody slapped it on. that is what and where i would suspect leaking if that is what's happening.

you can add an additional band clamp, or get a FI style band clamp, or even better a constant tension type band clamp and attempt to seal up the leak. I've gone as far in the past as to remove the hose (carefully) and wipe the pipe extending from the water pump clean, add a couple rings of RTV to the pipe itself in a generous bead closer to the pump than the end of the pipe, re-seated the hose using BOTH a band clamp (for cold temperature/start-up holding) and then a constant tension style clamp in front of it (for higher temperature clamping)... the constant tension should be on the heater core side.

 

[JExpedition07]

Okay thanks for the heads up, when the truck is running you can see where it's "leaking" and bubbling, so that's why I'm trying to see what I can do to fix it.

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Oh sorry I missed that you had already caught a leak, then air in the system is for sure your problem, just replace that part and get fresh coolant through with no air and you'll be good to go like new.

 

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

fomoco likes there little oring lined quick fittings.... I can't tell where it's leaking by the picture, but i can tell you those oring lined quick fittings rarely burst if seated properly and not messed with.... that leaves the band clamp in the far right of the picture suspect... that is NOT stock, that is where somebody slapped it on. that is what and where i would suspect leaking if that is what's happening.

you can add an additional band clamp, or get a FI style band clamp, or even better a constant tension type band clamp and attempt to seal up the leak. I've gone as far in the past as to remove the hose (carefully) and wipe the pipe extending from the water pump clean, add a couple rings of RTV to the pipe itself in a generous bead closer to the pump than the end of the pipe, re-seated the hose using BOTH a band clamp (for cold temperature/start-up holding) and then a constant tension style clamp in front of it (for higher temperature clamping)... the constant tension should be on the heater core side.

If you look at the picture where the T part is, the right o-ring is where I noticed it leaking yeaterday.

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[drewactual]

oh... is that black area in the pic a crack?

that needs to be replaced. one of the box stores will have a t fitting available with a barb on all three sides and they may be able to order the entire hose assembly- a parts desk at the stealership will likely have the entire assembly in stock.... at a premium, of course.

there isn't a lot of pressure on the system in that area... likely less than 5psi... but there is a sizable amount of volume. it could bleed out quickly if that fitting fails- as in rupturing completely.

if it were me, and it ain't, but if it were- I'd swing by the stealership and pick up the assembly... it'll take you a mighty half hour if that to replace the lines, then refill the system.... a few miles to burp it, or if you have an airlift tool about twenty seconds to burp it and be done with air in the system (until you open it the next time). as it is, that is one of the highest points in your cooling system, so you won't loose a lot of coolant while doing this.

 

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

I found this video, now mine hasn't busted like his had, but instead of having to buy the whole assembly could this fix my issue?


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[XLTExpoGuy2010]

oh... is that black area in the pic a crack?

that needs to be replaced. one of the box stores will have a t fitting available with a barb on all three sides and they may be able to order the entire hose assembly- a parts desk at the stealership will likely have the entire assembly in stock.... at a premium, of course.

there isn't a lot of pressure on the system in that area... likely less than 5psi... but there is a sizable amount of volume. it could bleed out quickly if that fitting fails- as in rupturing completely.

if it were me, and it ain't, but if it were- I'd swing by the stealership and pick up the assembly... it'll take you a mighty half hour if that to replace the lines, then refill the system.... a few miles to burp it, or if you have an airlift tool about twenty seconds to burp it and be done with air in the system (until you open it the next time). as it is, that is one of the highest points in your cooling system, so you won't loose a lot of coolant while doing this.

I couldn't find an actual crack in is i looked for 10 mins straight but you can tell it's leaking to put it simply.

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[Neilster1]

GM uses similar fittings. replace the assembly.. that crack will eventually completely separate and your coolant is gone. You'll need some inexpensive line disconnect tools (similar to fuel line disconnects, but bigger) to get the fittings off. Autozone/Advance/Pep Boys carries those.

 

[drewactual]

that's the barbed T fitting like i suggested earlier... yup... do it all day long and it'll be good as new.

the only thing i'd do different than that guy is ALWAYS double up on clamps when you have room to do so, and if you can ALWAYS use two different styles of clamps. he used standard screw band clamps. i'd use those closer to the joint and then a constant tension outside on all three legs.

 

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

Thanks for all the help guys!! Going to go to autozone just get what I need and fix it that way!!

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[Big Brian]

rockauto.com has it I would get the Motorcraft brand

 

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

Well guys didn't bother going with an OEM part just pulled the plug on getting a few hose clamps and getting a heater hose T and we'll it's as good as new!! Put some more coolant and success it's running with no leaks!

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[ManUpOrShutUp]

I had that same heater hose fail. It was $38. I actually just replaced all 3 hoses while I was there since I didn't want to revisit the issue any time soon ($85 total).

 

[Adieu]

Is this a gurgling sound at engine startup you're referring to??