Water boiling sound

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

Hey everyone got a quick question! I noticed the other day my truck is making what sounds like a water boiling sound wondering if anyone has dealt with this and can maybe point me in the right direction on what route I can take the part I noticed it at was where it's a T, and you can tell as well.

The part I have in question is outlined in blue, any and all input is greatly appreciated!!!

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[JExpedition07]

If it sounds like a gurgling sound it could be air pockets in coolant your hearing. A lot of people have had it where they hear gurgling moving through the heater core. I'm not quite so sure that is what your experiencing. There are quite a few ways air can get into coolant some are no big deal and some are. For example some older expeditions had combustion gases get into the system caused by leaky head gaskets but I haven't seen that on 3rd gens. Just a long shot.

 

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

If it sounds like a gurgling sound it could be air pockets in coolant your hearing. A lot of people have had it where they hear gurgling moving through the heater core. I'm not quite so sure that is what your experiencing. There are quite a few ways air can get into coolant some are no big deal and some are. For example some older expeditions had combustion gases get into the system caused by leaky head gaskets but I haven't seen that on 3rd gens. Just a long shot.

Okay thanks for the heads up, when the truck is running you can see where it's "leaking" and bubbling, so that's why I'm trying to see what I can do to fix it.

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[Big Brian]

that's the heater hose assembly

if its leaking replace it

 

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

that's the heater hose assembly

if its leaking replace it

Can I get the part just at autozone or do I have to go through the dealership?

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[drewactual]

that leak allows air to be introduced into what is supposed to be a closed system... the gurgling could be attributed to that air, or it could actually be boiling.

closed, the point of boiling is controlled by the pressure on the system... for instance, at sea level water boils at 212*... water+proper ratio of coolant may raise it to 215*... 1 pound of pressure on the system will allow the boil point to raise another 4* or so- so a 1# cap forces the boil point to around 220*. a 15# pressure on the system and if that system is closed doesn't boil until around 260~270*.... i tell you thins to stress the importance of having a healthy and 'closed' system.

boiling water doesn't cool as it's being turned to air, which makes things hotter. furthermore, when those bubbles break free of liquid form, they slap whatever metal is around them with force and work like sandblasting media, otherwise known as cavitation. cavitation destroys water pumps with a quickness, and it tears the film created by various coolants on hard parts off, and those chunks of goo will clog a radiator with a quickness.

if it's your heater core (likely) that is leaking, bypass it until you can fix the situation.

 

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

that leak allows air to be introduced into what is supposed to be a closed system... the gurgling could be attributed to that air, or it could actually be boiling.

closed, the point of boiling is controlled by the pressure on the system... for instance, at sea level water boils at 212*... water+proper ratio of coolant may raise it to 215*... 1 pound of pressure on the system will allow the boil point to raise another 4* or so- so a 1# cap forces the boil point to around 220*. a 15# pressure on the system and if that system is closed doesn't boil until around 260~270*.... i tell you thins to stress the importance of having a healthy and 'closed' system.

boiling water doesn't cool as it's being turned to air, which makes things hotter. furthermore, when those bubbles break free of liquid form, they slap whatever metal is around them with force and work like sandblasting media, otherwise known as cavitation. cavitation destroys water pumps with a quickness, and it tears the film created by various coolants on hard parts off, and those chunks of goo will clog a radiator with a quickness.

if it's your heater core (likely) that is leaking, bypass it until you can fix the situation.

Thanks man! As you can tell in the picture you can see where water is coming out of the house connection, what's best way to bypass it? I really just want to fix it right and be done.

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[drewactual]

fomoco likes there little oring lined quick fittings.... I can't tell where it's leaking by the picture, but i can tell you those oring lined quick fittings rarely burst if seated properly and not messed with.... that leaves the band clamp in the far right of the picture suspect... that is NOT stock, that is where somebody slapped it on. that is what and where i would suspect leaking if that is what's happening.

you can add an additional band clamp, or get a FI style band clamp, or even better a constant tension type band clamp and attempt to seal up the leak. I've gone as far in the past as to remove the hose (carefully) and wipe the pipe extending from the water pump clean, add a couple rings of RTV to the pipe itself in a generous bead closer to the pump than the end of the pipe, re-seated the hose using BOTH a band clamp (for cold temperature/start-up holding) and then a constant tension style clamp in front of it (for higher temperature clamping)... the constant tension should be on the heater core side.

 

[JExpedition07]

Okay thanks for the heads up, when the truck is running you can see where it's "leaking" and bubbling, so that's why I'm trying to see what I can do to fix it.

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Oh sorry I missed that you had already caught a leak, then air in the system is for sure your problem, just replace that part and get fresh coolant through with no air and you'll be good to go like new.

 

[XLTExpoGuy2010]

fomoco likes there little oring lined quick fittings.... I can't tell where it's leaking by the picture, but i can tell you those oring lined quick fittings rarely burst if seated properly and not messed with.... that leaves the band clamp in the far right of the picture suspect... that is NOT stock, that is where somebody slapped it on. that is what and where i would suspect leaking if that is what's happening.

you can add an additional band clamp, or get a FI style band clamp, or even better a constant tension type band clamp and attempt to seal up the leak. I've gone as far in the past as to remove the hose (carefully) and wipe the pipe extending from the water pump clean, add a couple rings of RTV to the pipe itself in a generous bead closer to the pump than the end of the pipe, re-seated the hose using BOTH a band clamp (for cold temperature/start-up holding) and then a constant tension style clamp in front of it (for higher temperature clamping)... the constant tension should be on the heater core side.

If you look at the picture where the T part is, the right o-ring is where I noticed it leaking yeaterday.

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