not sure why i've never notice it before and i did try to find it in the set of expy manuals i have... it's a metal case (2003 eddie bauer expy) right between the oil pan and the transmission pan... it has a plastic cap at the bottom... is there a name for this rascal? hard to look up something when you don't know what it's called!
what IS this thing
- Thread starter carole
- Start date
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Hamfisted
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I think you're just talking about the transmission bell housing ? It's the front part of the transmission, it houses the torque convert and flywheel.
yep... that's the thing... so... why the plastic plug... are you supposed to access it or something? it looks like 'something' has been leaking above that... the metal plate before that 'thingy' with the plug is greasy as is the bar below it... checked the transmission oil and it's fine and no spots on the driveway.. i have a cardboard box under it too, been there for months and no spots. so SOMETHING is leaking from the SOMETHING ELSE, and getting on the dohickey with the plug (sorry to be so technical)... thinking maybe blowing a bunch of carb cleaner up there to super clean it, then 'follow the money'... i'm a relative newbie to the car thing... but being a small girl has it's perks.. i don't have to jack it up, and i can get both hands in places you guys can't...
a-HA.... a torque convert drain plug... thing... i found it in the book in section 301... it says to remove the plastic cap, then drain it... drain it of what? what's in there? nothing is leaking out of it, but i like to know how that fits in with the rest... i've changed all the fluid in transmission, front and rear diff, transfer case, oil, coolant, brakes and power steering... but i haven't a clue if this is something i should be doing something with...
Hamfisted
Full Access Members
When you changed your transmission fluid you would've removed the drain plug in the torque converter to let the fluid drain out of it, as well as drained the pan, and changed the filter (if needed..) . If you see any fluid in that area, it's either motor oil from the engine's rear seal, or transmission fluid from the transmission's front seal. If it's not leaking enough to leave spots on your driveway I wouldn't worry about it.
texasscot
Well-Known Member
Not to disagree, but, I replaced my transmission extension seal and dropped the transmission pan and fitted a new filter recently. In my 2003 eddie there is no torque converter drain plug. There is the plastic cover in the housing but i removed it, marked the teeth on the flex plate and fully rotated the torque converter twice using a screwdriver and there is no drain plug. It's not possible to fully change the transmission fluid in this model, you just have to dilute it with fresh fluid after removing the pan only.
i just go by what the fordtechmakuloco guy said to do... i dropped the pan, cleaned it all up, new filter, made sure the original one wasn't there.... i didn't take that cap off, actually i admit i didn't even notice it, was concentrating on following the directions, so not sure if it looks like the manual diagrams with a recessed bolt underneath... would be nice if someone could do a 'powderpuff' maintenance thing for chickies like me (hint hint - i can flutter my eyelashes if it will help)... don't have a husband or brothers or father so i rely on the internet and kind folk like yourselves... and my maintenance manuals. i DID rip the whole truck apart maybe 9 years ago, trying to figure out why the radio wouldn't shut off when i opened the door... but the automatic locks didn't work either, nor did the auto headlights - seemingly unrelated things which turned out to be related by a purple wire that turns around the entire vehicle... so have a working knowledge of the electronics - actually probably have an advantage, i'm small enough i could just about fit under the passenger side when it came time to rip it's little brain box out (which wasn't the problem, so had to take THAT one out and put the original back in)... i like doing this kind of stuff, just need some guidance on what i should be doing. my girl has over 230,000km on her, and i'd like her to last a few more.
BlackCoffee
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Not all original torque converters can be drained. It depends on which one Ford installed.
Hamfisted
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If you have a laptop I would highly recommend downloading the ForScan program ( it's free...) and picking up a USB to OBDII cable off Amazon for $20 . With ForScan you can do a ton of analysis work on your Ford. Like see which door jamb switches are working correctly ( turn off the radio when door is opened, etc...). The door jamb switch is located in each door latch on the Expy. The driver's door switch typically fails somewhere around the 10 year mark. But it's possible the passenger door switch could be bad, you just have to test them in ForScan.
https://forscan.org/download.html
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Hi carole,
Good job on the tearing it all apart years ago. Prob more than I can tackle! With your capabilities described I'm sure you can get the mileage described.
There is a ton of good advice here as noticed.
was a computer nerd when i was working, so troubleshooting is sort of built in... i actually have an ODB thingy but that forscan (forscan? really? unfortunate name) sounds kinda neat, and free's always good! don't need it right this second... but then again, maybe i do and don't know it!.. just came up from blowing some grease into the ball joints - wow... you need mitts like Lou Ferrigno to squeeze grease through those tiny little needles. Hamfisted, can i assume this #$%^&U 'Carl' is the same dude that decided having zerks was BAD idea? who makes these decisions??
but to get back to the original question, why would you WANT to drain the torque converter? assuming it would be to get all the stuff out when you're draining the transmission so there isn't any old stuff in it? i can get under the truck and do all this stuff on the ground without jacking anything up, but technically, would parking it on a hill facing up drain it into the transmission pan? (yeah yeah, i know parking on a hill, but TECHNICALLY speaking)
but to get back to the original question, why would you WANT to drain the torque converter? assuming it would be to get all the stuff out when you're draining the transmission so there isn't any old stuff in it? i can get under the truck and do all this stuff on the ground without jacking anything up, but technically, would parking it on a hill facing up drain it into the transmission pan? (yeah yeah, i know parking on a hill, but TECHNICALLY speaking)
Gregg Eshelman
Full Access Members
The torque converter holds a lot of fluid. Can't even get much fluid out with the transmission removed and tipping the converter around to drain out its center. So without a drain plug a fluid change only gets about half the fluid.
If the fluid is really old and dark and there's no converter drain plug it can be a good idea to drain, put the pan back on, fill with fluid and run it for a bit to circulate through the converter, then drain and fill again. Costs more but will have much less of the old fluid mixed in.
Another option is a transmission flush but that can have downsides like loosening gunk that's comfortably stuck in corners doing no harm, or leaving some of the flushing agent behind to dilute the new fluid.
If the fluid is really old and dark and there's no converter drain plug it can be a good idea to drain, put the pan back on, fill with fluid and run it for a bit to circulate through the converter, then drain and fill again. Costs more but will have much less of the old fluid mixed in.
Another option is a transmission flush but that can have downsides like loosening gunk that's comfortably stuck in corners doing no harm, or leaving some of the flushing agent behind to dilute the new fluid.
It's wild that some torque converters don't and some do have drain plugs.
One important thing to mention is that if you don't see a drain plug when you take the rubber cap off, that doesn't mean you don't have one. It may be hiding. Put a mark on the torque converter, then get a ratchet/breaker bar and spin your crank pulley bolt (clockwise), and you'll start seeing the torque converter spin with the engine, and watch for the drain bolt to appear.
One important thing to mention is that if you don't see a drain plug when you take the rubber cap off, that doesn't mean you don't have one. It may be hiding. Put a mark on the torque converter, then get a ratchet/breaker bar and spin your crank pulley bolt (clockwise), and you'll start seeing the torque converter spin with the engine, and watch for the drain bolt to appear.
holy smokes... the person that decided NOT to put a plug on it must be the same donkey that decided to save 47 cents and not put zerks on ball joints etc. i finally had to break down and buy a dewalt grease gun to use that needle thing... my little girly hand just isn't strong enough, and you need one hand to hold the needle from popping out of the boot. kind of an expensive toy, but i live alone in the middle of nowhere and one thing i've learned is if something is too hard, you'll just stop doing it....
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