Why can't my Expy stop like a Chevy?? Booster issue?

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Miekk

Miekk

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I

I'm sorry to read that. You should sell your Ford and go buy a Chevy. Then you can always have a new one. Seeing as they need to be replaced every 70k miles or so. Its like changing your oil.

I won’t own a Guberment Motors vehicle
We Like the look
We love the ride and the IRS
 
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Miekk

Miekk

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Might want to delete that before you make a fool of yourself, you own a ford RIGHT?

Every forum has it's share a Jackwagons.....

What did I say, that I don't want to own a GM or that Fords have more than their share of issues? Comprehend much?

If if you're referring to the bailouts and you're a liberal who thinks we did an awesome thing, any more replies to your posts would be futile..
 

montecarlo31

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Every forum has it's share a Jackwagons.....

What did I say, that I don't want to own a GM or that Fords have more than their share of issues? Comprehend much?

If if you're referring to the bailouts and you're a liberal who thinks we did an awesome thing, any more replies to your posts would be futile..

Yes it does and you are one for sure.:Violin: lol...still think GM was the only bail out? Might want to read big boy. Anyway hope your brakes don't go out on you. That wouldn't be too good huh? :favorites37:

Back to the brakes, why haven't you serviced them correctly if you say you have owned the truck for two year?
 

stamp11127

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I'm surprised no one caught the comment about pumping the pedal twice. That is usually indicative of a worn master cylinder - which lowers the performance of the braking system. Leaking seals will lower the pressure applied to the caliper pistons.

For a fair comparison you need to consider the weight of each vehicle, tire size, brake size and diameter of the rotor, what material the pads are, size of the master cylinder bore and stroke, caliper piston size, etc.
You can get very aggressive pad material that will eat the snot out of a rotor - and put you face first into the windshield.

It could be you are comparing a worn system to a fairly new system that doesn't have the same amount of wear, the chevy may have a "larger" master cylinder than the Ford, it may be ceramic pads to semi metallic, etc. Without looking at the specs between the two it would be hard to pinpoint the difference.

As far as the rod goes, you need a slight amount of play in the pedal. I don't what the specs call for but I wouldn't have it less than 1/4 inch unless the factory calls for less. If the pedal is harder to push than normal it may be from a leaking booster. If the leak is bad enough there may be a reduction in the assist.
 
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andrew_s

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I'm surprised no one caught the comment about pumping the pedal twice. That is usually indicative of a worn master cylinder - which lowers the performance of the braking system. Leaking seals will lower the pressure applied to the caliper pistons.

For a fair comparison you need to consider the weight of each vehicle, tire size, brake size and diameter of the rotor, what material the pads are, size of the master cylinder bore and stroke, caliper piston size, etc.
You can get very aggressive pad material that will eat the snot out of a rotor - and put you face first into the windshield.

It could be you are comparing a worn system to a fairly new system that doesn't have the same amount of wear, the chevy may have a "larger" master cylinder than the Ford, it may be ceramic pads to semi metallic, etc. Without looking at the specs between the two it would be hard to pinpoint the difference.

As far as the rod goes, you need a slight amount of play in the pedal. I don't what the specs call for but I wouldn't have it less than 1/4 inch unless the factory calls for less. If the pedal is harder to push than normal it may be from a leaking booster. If the leak is bad enough there may be a reduction in the assist.
It was the first thing I said....i had my clutch system (hydraulic like a brake system) have the same issue and master and slave cylinders needed replacement. Once they were done the pedal was perfect from there.
 
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Miekk

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New fluid is no different. Ford says all is normal.
I've researched a lot of forums and everybody that has soft brake issues, and has replaced nearly everything, finally ends up shimming or adjusting the booster rod out so it sets up much faster. All seem to be happy with that fix.
I took the master off and my booster does not have an adjustable rod so not sure where to go from here yet.
 

k9education

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My 2011 EL takes a bit to stop despite the braking system being in good shape, but the vehicle is 6,000 lbs. I previously owned a '96 Probe GT, '92 Explorer, '98 Crown Vic, and '00 Mercury Mountaineer; no complaints about brakes on any of them.

Because your vehicle is still running! Sorry, had 2 Suburbans and neither one made it past 72K miles. My 13 Expy, knocking on wood, is at 70K now with no mechanical issues other than warping rotors.

Sweet jesus. Why did you buy the second one? If any of my vehicles get less than 200K I'm never buying that model again.
 

01yellerCobra

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New fluid won't fix a leaking seal. The fact that you have to pump it shows it's not normal. Ford probably doesn't know what's normal so they're guessing.

My 08 stopped just fine. Even with 24" rims. And I was never concerned about stopping with my boat behind me. Something is wrong with your system.
 
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