Your nuts if you think the factory sub amp...

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1955moose

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Some of the best sounding Alpine, Sony, pioneer units came from the 70's and 80's. I've had many amps, decks, and speakers, over the years, and unless your willing to pay top dollar, the early stuff has them beat. Theirs only a few company's that even offer audiophile head units, amps, and speakers. Pioneer has one on the market in 2016, pre amp only for about $1400.00 through Crutchfield. It's cd/am fm only, with plug out for I phone interface, but the sound quality with a matching amp, and speakers is top shelf. Back in the 80's, we would spend about $2,000 and up for all the gear. In today's money, it would be $4,000 to get true audiophile sound in your SUV. I don't need a big video screen detracting me when I drive a 5,800 pound tinted window monster down the street. Just want to crank my music.


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1955moose

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The reason you put an old CD player or even cassette deck, is because they sounded amazing. One of the biggest turnarounds in the home stereo market, is to buy an older McIntosh, pioneer, or Sansui receiver. You put new capacitors, maybe resistors, and you've got an amazing sounding amp/ receiver. They had as much as 200 wpc. New receivers sound thin, distorted, and not real musical. You have to spend upwards of $2,000 to get lifelike audio, these days. With car stereo, getting replacement cassette heads, or cd laser transports can be tough. But if your on a budget, and want top notch for cheap, it's an option. Problem nowadays most kids aren't into audio like we were, they live on their phones and tablets. To me using pandora playing through my Ford Mach stereo, is pretty sweet, considering the stereo was part of the truck.


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Adieu

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its all in the enclosure...the factory enclosure is sealed...I use vented/ported...I haven't dealt with anything less than 1500 rms in years...100 watts will shake the mirror so I'm not moved by that...at the end of the day...if ur happy ur good...u have plans on moving up in size...right now I 5 amps...and none are less than 6k rms...2-4500 rms...1-3500 rms...3-3000 rms...I want ppl to hear me before they see me...lol

Theres real watts and theres consumer product watts


You can make peoples ears bleed with a 30w tube guitar amp
 

GAINMOB

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But we're not talking about guitar amps or high frequency hertz...I'll make your heart skip a beat and take your breath away playing 20-27 hz

Mr. 10K
 

1955moose

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It's all about matching up the speakers to the amp. The other most important factor in playing loud and clean, is having an amp that has a low distortion rate. Some of the modern amps state as much as 500 watts per channel, but the distortion rate can be as high as 10 percent. A clean sounding amp like JL audio or McIntosh have amps that put out close to that with only 1 percent or less distortion. Like all good things in life power costs.


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GAINMOB

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True and I agree...I'm a basshead...hairtricks and floating towels...but my mids and high are no joke either...so along with the King Kong gorilla bass I have clear and loud vocals...ear piercing

Mr. 10K
 

1955moose

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Keep it under 105 db or when you get my age you'll be saying what! what!


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USMCBuckWild

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I concur on the clean power. I would much rather have a clean and clear sound than a distorted mess that is loder than everyone else.

I am still running the factory amp bridged to that 2 ohm 12 and it is sounding good. I did add that little fan to the stock amp housing just in case, but thus far it hasn't failed me. Albeit its not going to impress anyone outside the vehicle,but the sound inside is clear, crisp, with clean hits and excelent response down into the low 20hz range. I was quite surprised as to how balanced the sound is, I was fearful the mids and highs would overtake the sub, but that little amp is keeping up.

Again, using the stock amp bridged is a low budget possibility for someone looking for a little more "kick" and not a competition system.
 
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johnboneske

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I agree, my dual 12's work fine. It doesnt kick your ass by any means like an amp putting out 250/channel or anything... but, works good for what it is. Which wires did you use to "bridge" it? As I said, I have dual 12" Kicker comp 4ohm in a sealed box, which wires did you use to bridge it?

I used a IDE 48" power cable for a computer with 4 pins so I could run either my factory amp with the 10" sub when hauling stuff or put in my dual 12's when the 3rd row is down. I got a separate one of an old computer and wired it to my box... Works great!!

ide 48.jpg
 

hyfynut

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7db is actually about 5 times as loud and will "sound" almost twice as loud to the human ear.

Actually that is not quite true. I suspect you simply mis-spoke.
7db requires 5 times as much power but is not perceived as twice as loud.
10db is considered twice as loud.
10db increase requires 10 times the power.
 
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USMCBuckWild

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I agree, my dual 12's work fine. It doesnt kick your ass by any means like an amp putting out 250/channel or anything... but, works good for what it is. Which wires did you use to "bridge" it? As I said, I have dual 12" Kicker comp 4ohm in a sealed box, which wires did you use to bridge it?

I used a IDE 48" power cable for a computer with 4 pins so I could run either my factory amp with the 10" sub when hauling stuff or put in my dual 12's when the 3rd row is down. I got a separate one of an old computer and wired it to my box... Works great!!

View attachment 19177


I used white/grey stripe for positive and and white/blue stripe for negative.

Keep in mind, I am using a 2ohm SVC 12. That is using 1 ohm per channel (factory is rated at 1.3 ohm per channel at 55watts). If you use a 4 ohm sub and bridge the stock amp it will be 2 ohm per channel and actually REDUCE the output. Most likely to around 75 watts total output. If you use a 4ohm DVC sub, there is a way, with some screwy wiring, to run the amp bridged and reduce the sub to 2ohm.
 

Adieu

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But we're not talking about guitar amps or high frequency hertz...I'll make your heart skip a beat and take your breath away playing 20-27 hz

Mr. 10K

Actually, we kind of are

See, the vast majority of tracks out there use guitar and bass guitar, and the rest still use the same frequency ranges - whether its classical strings like cellos or modern synthesizer keys...
 

MBohn

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Your db/watts bit is just a tad off... I work as a DJ, and have 18" subs that are rated at 1,000 watts, and 126db. Meanwhile, my buddy also has 18" subs, also rated at 1,000 watts but only 104db. All depends on the efficiency of your subs and amps. Every time you double your wattage, you will gain 3db. And as someone said, db is no linear, and that is key to remember. A jet taking off is only 24 db louder than one of my subwoofers...
 
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johnboneske

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Your db/watts bit is just a tad off... I work as a DJ, and have 18" subs that are rated at 1,000 watts, and 126db. Meanwhile, my buddy also has 18" subs, also rated at 1,000 watts but only 104db. All depends on the efficiency of your subs and amps. Every time you double your wattage, you will gain 3db. And as someone said, db is no linear, and that is key to remember. A jet taking off is only 24 db louder than one of my subwoofers...


Agree 1,000,000.

I used to be a sound engineer. Owned my own sound production company. FOH, i had 4 pairs of JBL 225's with JBL SRX4719's on the bottom, each dual 18" sub cabinet had a Crown 4000 watt amp on it, so 32k strong bottom end and 8k up top total. Sure miss it, but the wife doesn't!
 
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johnboneske

johnboneske

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Your db/watts bit is just a tad off... I work as a DJ, and have 18" subs that are rated at 1,000 watts, and 126db. Meanwhile, my buddy also has 18" subs, also rated at 1,000 watts but only 104db. All depends on the efficiency of your subs and amps. Every time you double your wattage, you will gain 3db. And as someone said, db is no linear, and that is key to remember. A jet taking off is only 24 db louder than one of my subwoofers...


also don't forget your subs aren't rated at 126db 1w/1m. Probably more like 100 to 102. 126 is probably topped out at RMS.
 
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