Multiple Radiator replacements

[AbbadonTD]

Radiators are fun... All of what I write comes from a Jeep Cherokee XJ, as I have only had my Expy for a couple months. XJs are notorious for radiator/heat issues. I tow - that does some nice heat work up 7% grade hills.

Most of my leaks came from bad radiators and not any other engine part. Less hoses than radiators. I had more than 5 fails on plastic/aluminum hybrid radiators, just from them splitting off the plastic part. I put in a larger radiator (removing my AC entirely) that was all aluminum, and that lasted nearly 5 years. I was putting a new one in every 15000 miles before that.

If you are doing parts of the system, you may have to do some other parts. Replace EVERY hose clamp if you can. If your core has been clogged for a while that would slow down the cooling time. I would do the water pump too, unless, someone here stops you because it is hard. again, new to this vehicle myself.

Sourcing the drip is so annoying I believe they make dyes for ONLY this purpose. If you were slightly off level, and had a small crack ANYWHERE in the radiator, it would drop it all at the low point. I missed a leak this way, because the leak was 3 feet from the spot on the ground!

 

[case2001]

Thanks for the reply!!

The water pump was replaced about 4 years ago. At the dealer. I guess I could replace it again. But is seams to be fine. I did notice the condenser that is in front of the radiator has a bunch of debris on it so I am going to clean it with soap and water. I am going to a 180 degree thermostat. And I am going to blow all lines and the block with compressed air to clean the passages and make sure there is no residual antifree. I am going to switch to Motorcraft Gold antifreeze. I ran across a TSB about changing radiator fluid and using a powered aluminum treatment and I am going to use that too. So we will see.
I am going to replace the worm type clamp on the upper house with a factory constant pressure clamp as well.

I am open to any other suggestions.


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[stamp11127]

I wouldn't run a colder t stat unless absolutely necessary - in your case it isn't necessary. The programing in the pcm is for an engine temp of 195 degrees if I remember correctly.
Why throw all the other stuff at it? You are not addressing the cause of the leak with that stuff. Once the cause of your leak has been determined and corrected then it would pay off with the longer life coolants.
My screw clamps have worked great, I use Gates brand clamps though.

Have you tried the Spectrum radiators?

If possible, post pics of the removal and installation. Showing the mounting pads and how it sits. Take a look at the lower rad support once it is out. Make sure it is firmly mounted at the mount points and not rusted away.

I would also replace the upper rad hose. I think you stated it was 6 years old.

FYI - when I was pressure testing the cooling systems on the school buses, I would pressurize the system to 25 psi - sometimes 30 psi on the newer buses. Anything above that you are getting into trouble and will create leaks where there wasn't any.
Once the new rad is in, if you could monitor the pressure for a few days that would tell you if the cause is pressure related or if it is from another source.

 

[AbbadonTD]

Dont blow out with air, it will clog **** up. You can flush your radiator/system/core with a garden hose once you drain the system. You should be able to Youtube it, even for a different but similar vehicle.

 

[case2001]

Thanks for the ideas.

After I put the radiator in 6 months ago. I did the pressure monitoring after it was hot and it never went above 12lbs. I would pump it up to 16. (Which is what the new cap was rated at). And saw no leak down. I also ran the truck at operating temperature with the pressure gauge in the system and the RPM at 2500 for 2 to 3 minutes and the pressure was rock steady.

I am changing to Motorcraft gold because that's what she had in her when I bought her. I actually started having problems when the dealer flushed the system and changed to the green about 2 years later. Probably just coincidence but I don't think it will hurt.

I have not tried the Spectrum brand radiator. But I know 3 of the radiators were OEM Ford.

I will check the lower mount when I have it out and shoot some photos. But I have looked at it really closely and there does not appear to be any rust. In fact, with the radiator in it has very little moment at all. Much less then the condenser.

I am wondering if there is some kind of chemical reaction that is going on causing the seam to break down in the same location. I know Ford put a flow restricter on the flow to the heater cores so I am wondering if that could be an issue somehow with the radiator. That is also the reason I thought I would try the gold coolant.

I understand the concern about the 180 degree thermostat, but again at worst it will affect gas mileage, but if it is some kind of chemical reaction I thought it might slow it down.

I don't think I am dealing with a pressure issue though. It has never overflowed. The leak has been on the same side for the last 18 months with the last 2 being 6 months apart to the week. And I have not been able to measure any signs of increase pressure. No exhaust gas in cooling system. No evidence of increased pressure in the system by pressure testing. No evidence of leak down on the coolant system. No overheating.

Your right though I should change the upper house. The lower was change 3
years ago.

I agree with you too that the mounts would be the most logical cause. But I am sure the Ford dealer checked it and I have looked but will look again.

Keep the suggestions coming!!!


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[case2001]

Dont blow out with air, it will clog **** up. You can flush your radiator/system/core with a garden hose once you drain the system. You should be able to Youtube it, even for a different but similar vehicle.

Normally I would not use air. But I will have all the lines open and air is really just going to blow the block out and the lines going to the rear heater core. I am not going to put in the front heater core until after I blow everything out.




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[stamp11127]

Since it hasn't been fixed correctly at the dealer don't assume they have looked for the cause. They have only been tossing parts at it.
You will only get reactions with dissimilar metals to cause that leak. I would look at applied pressure from flexing or twisting as a possible cause.

 

[case2001]

I agree. I am all done. I changed top and bottom radiator hoses. The hoses to the front heater core. The front heater core. Flushed the block. Blew the block out with compressed air. I was able to get 20 plus quarts of antifreeze. I looked closely at the bottom radiator mount and it is solid. The radiator went in easily no binding.

I used Motorcraft Gold. I found what appears to be calcium deposits in the hoses.

But the main passages looked clear.

Again thanks for the help. The only thing I did not do is to put the powered cooling system treatment in it.

Thanks. Do you think I should do the treatment as well?


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[stamp11127]

What does the label say it will do to the system?

I would not do the powdered treatment until I had more information on it.

Looks more like rust and scale deposits in the pic.

In the radiators that have leaked, how close is the upper hose connection to them? I'm wondering if one of the motor mounts has failed allowing more twisting under throttle.

 

[case2001]

It is high near the upper radiator hose inlet. I cannot really appreciate any excessive movement to the motor. Do you have any suggestions about how to check the mount?


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