Multiple Radiator replacements

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case2001

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Ok. Looked at my motor shifting from drive to reverse. No excessive movement.

The new lower radiator hose is leaking. Looks like it's leaking past the o rings of the new radiator. I guess I will have to get another new lower hose and a new set of I rings!



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stamp11127

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I switched mine over to the old style Gate's screw clamps. The quick connect is another Ford failed idea. Might connect quick on the line but you pay hell trying to get it off if a previous owner has let the cooling system maintenance slide.
 
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case2001

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Your right. I think the easiest way to get it off is to remove the degas bottle and disconnect the hose from the block. Then take the entire radiator out with the lower hose still attached. Once out use a big pair of groove joint pliers and it is a piece of cake.
Trying to remove while in place would be a bear!



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case2001

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Ok another update. I got under the car and put the groove joint pliers in the hose and moved it back and forth. I guess that seated the o-rings because the leaking has stopped after a few more heat cycles. Today I let her idle for 30 minutes twice and the air seams to be out of the system. Both front and back heaters blowing nice and hot. I put my obd scanner on and the coolant temp read 190 to 194. Ambient temp in low/mid 80's with high humidity. So I think I am going to be fine in the summer at least. Winter may be a different story. With my 195 thermostat my coolant temps were always 195 to 199.



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stamp11127

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Nothing wrong with the 195-199 temps. The 16 psi in the system raises the boiling point of the coolant so you have plenty of margin. If I remember correctly it is 3 degrees for every 1 psi increase.
 
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case2001

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Well. I guess I sit back and wait!


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case2001

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I almost forgot. The constant tension clamp leaked at the top radiator hide so I bought a new screw type clamp. So changes this time.
Motor Craft gold coolant
Blew block out with compressed air
180 degree thermostat
New front heater core
New upper/lower hose
New hoses to the heater core
Loosened upper radiator mounts
New radiator
New de gas cap
New screw type clamps for upper radiator hose

We will see what happens.

And again I appreciate everyone's help!!




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case2001

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Ok thought I would update the thread. Ambient temperature here has been upper 80's to low 90's. Coolant temperature has be 195 to 200. Subjectively the engine is cooler. The cooling system has been flawless. I have noticed the pressure of the system seems much lower, probably less then 5 lbs. I will continue to monitor it.

I will put a pressure gauge on the system this weekend measure it hot. With the old 195 thermostat and system hot it would routine pressurize to 10 lbs. after a highway drive or long idles.

Could it have been an improper ratio of antifreeze? Less then a 50/50 ratio causing the pressure to be less than 16lbs but going up and down causing stress in the seams? With a 195 thermostat my coolant temps were 200 to 210. When I changed the radiator the last 2 times I used prediluted Prestone green.

This time I measure how much I got out of the block and the radiator as well as the front heater core and then added Zyrtec g05 undiluted until I had a 70:30 ratio based on what was left in the rear heater core/lines/block.

This would not explain the failure from the dealer though. I can't imagine they were not making the mixture exactly 50:50. I don't think it would explain the leak being in the same locations each time either.

I checked the dilution with an autozone Prestone instrument and it said a 70:30.

Ok. I will post back in 6 months!!!


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case2001

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Ok one more update. Outside temperature has been in mid 90's typical summer temperatures with heat index in upper 90's low 100's. My coolant temperature is between 195 and 200 with the 180 degree thermostat. Pressure in system hot with Mitty Vac around 2 pounds. Much lower then it was running with the 195 thermostat and old coolant. With that set up pressure this time of year was around 7 or so.


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