1997 expy electric fan install

This is my first attempt at a write up. I'm doing the electric fan install on my 1997 Expedition 4.6L XLT 4x4. I have also upgraded the radiator to a 2 row. Here are the parts I have purchased.

1. 2 speed Volvo fan controller from Ebay. Volvo 2 Speed Electric Fan Controller Relay Lincoln Mark VIII Taurus 93 Mustang | eBay

2. 2 row radiator from Ebay. 2 Row Radiator Ford Expedition F150 F250 F350 Super Duty 4 6 5 4 V8 | eBay

3. Dual electric fan from a Ford Windstar. Like this one. Flows 4,400 CFM as per an Dorman flow study (found here Ford Windstar Cooling Fan data collected - Chevelle Tech) 99 03 Windstar Radiator A C Fan Assembly Dual Fan | eBay

4. One Be cool grounding electric fan switch. Be Cool 75029 185 Degree Sender For Select Radiators : Amazon.com : Automotive

The switch (part #4) will drive the low speed fan. The dual fan controller (part #1) is made for a 2 fan set-up or for a 2 speed fan. Its completely ready to wire and uses the temp sensor to control on/off. So if you want, you can use a higher temp sensor for the high side. But you will have to engineer your own way of tapping into the water path. For my truck I'm tapping into the water path toward the left back of the block by the bell housing there is a 3/8" npt port into the waterway.

The high speed fan is going to be driven off the A/C pressure switch. As well as a switch that grounds the dash. So if anything fails I have a safety.

Now the radiator and the fan ALMOST are a direct fit. I had to elongate the left hole and I am going to have to put a spacer and longer bolt into the right side. On the bottom where the radiator slides into the retaining brackets. I'm going to make some thin brackets to slide into the retaining pockets on the radiator. In the end its a VERY close fit. The shroud covers 95% of the radiator. So I will get maximum draqw through the radiator. I will be posting pics as I go along and adding them to this thread. Hopefully this will help others looking into this modification!

Sounds like you have it well planned out. Take some photos!

I thought they all came with 2 core radiators but apparently not.

sadly some of the lighter duty models came with a single core. Mine unfortunately was one of those. I am going to fix that mistake by Ford! I have done quite a bit of research for this project and I'm expecting some very good results. Thank you to those on this forum that have posted their projects so I could learn and put my plan together!

whats your total investment thus far?

So far here is my break down of cost.

1. Volvo controller - $25.95 shipped
2. Radiator - $115 shipped
3. Fans (local junk yard) - $33.16 after taxes
4. Be cool switch - $30.67 shipped
5. Misc. wires and connectors - $25

So my total is $229.78. But without having to up size my radiator I'm at $114.78. Which is very respectable.

I'm hoping to start work tonight and get some pictures of my install. I have about 90% of the parts I need.

I am VERY VERY interested in your results, anything that takes some of the draw off of my motor is a bonus! Less drag = more power = more efficiency. Looking forward to some end game here!

I was able to get some work done tonight. This will outline mounting the fans to the radiator. It is almost a perfect fit. There are some mild modifications to be made to the fans, but everything is very simple.

To start off the drivers side upper mounting slot needs to be a little longer toward the edge. I sized a drill bit to the slot and lengthened the slot about 1/8".

From there I went to the upper passengers side slot. This one needed the hole put to the upper right corner. For that I lined the top of the fan shroud to the top of the radiator and marked the hole to be drilled out. This tab also needs a spacer. To which I found a 1/2" thick rubber spacer that was enough to space the fans from the radiator.

The rubber spacer.

I used the threaded clips they provided for the top holes on the bottom tabs to hold the metal brackets in place. I reused the threaded clips from my original radiator on the top holes. I also made the bracket longer and wrapped it under the bottom of the tab. I had to break the threaded clip and used the threaded portion to bolt to. The rib on the tab holds it in place so it doesn't spin while you're tightening it.
Sorry for the blurry first pic.


On the drivers side lower tab I did the same thing for the mounting.

Then I painted everything black so it doesn't stick out.


I started disconnecting the radiator in the truck. I've unhooked everything but the lower hose. That will come tomorrow night...

Cra* !!! Forgot to finish off my dual efans install also... Thanks for the reminder!

Bolted the bottom radiator to my home made shroud, but left the c-clamps on the top... Will post pic at day light!!! Been driving like this semi completed for 3 weeks now.. *sigh*

mindgame said:

Cra* !!! Forgot to finish off my dual efans install also... Thanks for the reminder!

Bolted the bottom radiator to my home made shroud, but left the c-clamps on the top... Will post pic at day light!!! Been driving like this semi completed for 3 weeks now.. *sigh*

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Oh, I so know how that is!

Nice work. I have a question. Other than off loading the engine a bit and getting a small amount of power back, why are you doing this upgrade. My 99 even when towing in 100deg +, my engine coolant temperature does not move at all. The stock cooling system really seems to do the job very well.
Thanks
Mike

I am not a fan of mechanical fans at all. I dont like the drag they put on the motor. Plus I feel electric fans can do a better job of cooling the radiator. Plus I am going to wire in an override. That way I can run the fans with the engine off. I have done this mod on two other vehicles and have really enjoyed the improvement it made in driving.

This is a non educated question on this subject. Do the fans draw the air from the outside of the radiator into the engine bay to cool the radiator? I guess that makes it work better when driving down the road? Just don't know which was the air flow is directed. Is it pushed forward or drawn in. Thanks
Mike

mbaessler said:

This is a non educated question on this subject. Do the fans draw the air from the outside of the radiator into the engine bay to cool the radiator? I guess that makes it work better when driving down the road? Just don't know which was the air flow is directed. Is it pushed forward or drawn in. Thanks
Mike

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Its pulled through the radiator from the outside air into the engine bay. There are fans on certain cars that are secondary fans that push the air through the radiator. The "pusher" fans are less efficient than "puller" fans. So you have the right idea!

Thank You Bowesmobile!

mbaessler said:

Nice work. I have a question. Other than off loading the engine a bit and getting a small amount of power back, why are you doing this upgrade. My 99 even when towing in 100deg +, my engine coolant temperature does not move at all. The stock cooling system really seems to do the job very well.
Thanks
Mike

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For you guys that are relying on the factory gauge in the cluster to keep track of your coolant temp are fooling yourselves. Too say even in 100* heat the needle doesnt move you would be correct, butt I have na Edge Programmer and I can watch my gauge as well as the actual temp and in the heat, even when the temp gauge dont move my coolant temp rises according to the edge
In short the factory gauge isnt very reliable

I believe the factory gauge is only designed to show if the coolant is below a certain temp. Once this temp is reached, it displays the overheat on the needle. As long as it doesn't move, the engine should be fine, though Jay is right, it is not an accurate representation of the actual temp of the motor.

Jay87LX said:

For you guys that are relying on the factory gauge in the cluster to keep track of your coolant temp are fooling yourselves. Too say even in 100* heat the needle doesnt move you would be correct, butt I have na Edge Programmer and I can watch my gauge as well as the actual temp and in the heat, even when the temp gauge dont move my coolant temp rises according to the edge
In short the factory gauge isnt very reliable

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This is why I have the torque app.

mindgame said:

Will post pic at day light!!! Been driving like this semi completed for 3 weeks now.. *sigh*

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As promised.. pics of my home made shroud, that I been running with c clamps for 3 weeks now