AC compressor removal

[shadow460]

I have a 1998 Expedition and the AC compressor seal has blown out. There were two loud pops from the right side of the truck, kinda underneath, and it blew this musty smelling fluorescent green oily stuff all over the tie rod, stabilizer, and the compressor.

I know how to get the compressor loose from the engine and how to safely recover the refrigerant and unhook the lines. The problem is that there's this little bitty opening between the frame and the tie rod right below the compressor, and I can't see for the life of me how the compressor is going to fit through it. The Haynes book says to remove a shield from the fan in order to access the compressor, but I don't see where the mounting bolts are.

I don't want to get the A/C lines off and then realize I can't get the old compressor out, and I don't want to be forced into leaving the A/C system open for more than 15 minutes.

If it weren't for all the stuff in the way, this would be as easy for me as changing the alternator. Got any ideas? I certainly don't fancy paying $750 for a shop to do something so similar to what I do every single day at work.

 

[02expi]

I `think if u take the plastic inner fender out u can get the compressor out without any trouble, and as I recall the inner fender comes out pretty easily. if u take the shroud off the fan has to come off too and even then u can't get to the compressor bolts very well.

 

[shadow460]

Almost forgot: it's a 4.6 liter Romeo and the truck is a 4x4.

The bolts can be reached with a 10mm and a 3/8 universal joint. I can feel the "manifold" bolt by reaching through the inner fender, around the tire.
I just don't know how that compressor is going to fit around everything to actually remove it from the vehicle. Maybe if the shroud is all one piece, I can slip the condenser and the radiator forward and slide the shroud around them. This might allow the compressor to slide forward and down.
If I remove the tie rod and the idler arm, I'd have full access to lower the compressor out the bottom, but I don't have a ball joint puller for that. I might be able to slip it through just by turning the wheels to one side. That gives me 4 to 5 inches of room to drop through.

 

[Notmyidi]

When I did it on my dads 97 4.6 l I actually unbolted a portion of the drag link, its go two large bolts a idler arm of sorts and pulled it through there

sent from my mind via of telepathy

 

[shadow460]

When I did it on my dads 97 4.6 l I actually unbolted a portion of the drag link, its go two large bolts a idler arm of sorts and pulled it through there

sent from my mind via of telepathy

That's what I'd had in mind. The puller required to remove the drag link is $15 at Autozone. It's on the loan a tool program, too, just in case I don't care to keep it.

 

[tonydiv]

Unless you have a real AC machine that can draw a vacuum on the system, have a pro do the recharge. You can certainly change out the parts yourself.

 

[Notmyidi]

That's what I'd had in mind. The puller required to remove the drag link is $15 at Autozone. It's on the loan a tool program, too, just in case I don't care to keep it.

I concur, plus if you got bad ends you can do it while your there. its an excuse

Unless you have a real AC machine that can draw a vacuum on the system, have a pro do the recharge. You can certainly change out the parts yourself.

Ill agree, you need to make sure your system will hold a vacuum of 29.99 inches of mercury (29.99 inches HG), 30 inches of mercury is perfect, but its unattainable dont even try.

You can do it with gauges and a seperate vacuum pump (they make ones that are eletric and ones that hook up to your compressed air), hooks up to the yellow line on a guage set.

if you choose to do it he old fashioned way, you dont need to pull a vacuum to disassemble it. just upon re-assembly

 

[robbieg]

You probably don't need worry about recovering the freon. If you blew the seals on the compressor and you can see the oil and die all over the gas is already gone.

 

[Notmyidi]

You probably don't need worry about recovering the freon. If you blew the seals on the compressor and you can see the oil and die all over the gas is already gone.

And that what i get for skimming thread, if you blew the compressor seal the refrig is already gone.

You would need to vac down upon reassembly maybe even dry nitrogen it (testing purposes)

 

[shadow460]

Yes, most of the gas is gone. Autozone has vacuum pumps on their loan a tool program, which I plan to use.

I'm a certified residential A/C tech. Don't get me wrong, though, I do appreciate the reminder on leak testing and pulling a vacuum. My 134a gauge set doesn't show vacuum, but since there are no other dye stains, once I've pulled a deep vacuum and added a single can of 134a, I'll be able to leak test with soap bubbles. I just don't have the tools necessary to work with dry nitrogen.

What threw me is how to physically get the compressor away from the vehicle once it's unbolted and the lines are loose. When I get to that point on a residential unit, a couple of big burly guys can just lift the compressor out. This is a different ball game, though.

As for the drag link, a nearby tire shop says its good, but I could use some ball joints. :/

 

[Notmyidi]

Well hell you got this covered, my brother does commercial, even though we both have license in both, we have a hard time transferring to eachothers specialitys

For example, he does my house ac and I do his car ac

A ac supply store or oriellys should have a vacuum gauge. And if you can use your work vacuum unit you'll be fine

If you fill it I believe head should be about 250 and low should be about 50-60, it was 112 ambient when I did mine so yours will be different

Use some of the neutralizer when you
Pur on the new comp, I figure you know your stuff but I figure is say

It's 62 (3.879 lbs) oz of 134a if you havea rear air, and 11 oz of pag 46
sent from my mind via of telepathy

 

[shadow460]

Yeah, neutralizer is never a bad idea. Johnstone Supply has it for less than $10 a bottle. That'll prevent me replacing a condenser or (yikes) the front evaporator anytime soon.
I didn't know how much oil it would take, though. I just assumed a new compressor would come pre filled. All the Copeland Scrolls I've installed always had it. Even the little Matsushita compressors that Goodman used for a while are pre filled.
My mechanic said they typically didn't replace the dryer unless the compressor had locked up. I'm a little iffy on that myself. I've gotten by with it a time or two, but they clog up over time. I always soldered new ones in on both high and low sides if I opened a system. My compressor turns freely by hand, and the last time I turned on the air by accident, the rear vents blew a tad cold. Knowing I'd blow the oil out, I shut it off immediately. I don't always trust the low pressure cutout switch.
Said mechanic offered to install the compressor and charge they system for $200 if I provided the parts and the freon. That's provided the dryer is OK, though. They say that often times the dryer's fittings get stuck in place.

 

[786jayone]

The drier and metering device should also be change. We just had our a/c compressor only, changed on our church van. We ended up having to do the job again because the metering device went bad. Just my thought. Definitely recommend changing the drier anytime the system is opened.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Notmyidi]

Yeah, neutralizer is never a bad idea. Johnstone Supply has it for less than $10 a bottle. That'll prevent me replacing a condenser or (yikes) the front evaporator anytime soon.
I didn't know how much oil it would take, though. I just assumed a new compressor would come pre filled. All the Copeland Scrolls I've installed always had it. Even the little Matsushita compressors that Goodman used for a while are pre filled.
My mechanic said they typically didn't replace the dryer unless the compressor had locked up. I'm a little iffy on that myself. I've gotten by with it a time or two, but they clog up over time. I always soldered new ones in on both high and low sides if I opened a system. My compressor turns freely by hand, and the last time I turned on the air by accident, the rear vents blew a tad cold. Knowing I'd blow the oil out, I shut it off immediately. I don't always trust the low pressure cutout switch.
Said mechanic offered to install the compressor and charge they system for $200 if I provided the parts and the freon. That's provided the dryer is OK, though. They say that often times the dryer's fittings get stuck in place.

Hell I thought Johnstone was a Oklahoma local thing.

My brother does Eddie current testing

Do the drier, but it might be aluminum to steel fittings, electrolis is a pita sometimes. In fact at work I'm laying in 22 ft each of ac lines because I twisted a drier in half on a carrier tie in system on a paratransit bus

Some times they are prefilled sometimes not, last time I did it, no. So I poured some in and spun the compressor and filled it up essentially, took a note of how much I filled it then added the.remainder upon recharge

From my stand point I don't think its not a hard job, if your able to use your work equipment then all you'll need to worry bout is the remove and reinstall

sent from my mind via of telepathy

 

[Notmyidi]

Well ill be your an okie, I'm in tulsa

sent from my mind via of telepathy

 

[shadow460]

Yep, I'm in Oklahoma City.

My dryer has the bolt up type fittings. If they're badly stuck, I may take my chances with the old dryer. If not, the changing it will be easy. IIRC, the orifice tube is in one of the lines leading from the dryer.
Either way, I'll definitely be buying the compressor soon even if I have to put it up while I save money and/or wait for the dryer and orifice tube to arrive in the mail.

I've got all the required hand tools and a couple of gauge manifold sets. I'll have to borrow the vacuum pump from Autozone, but that's no biggie. Their loan a tool program has saved my tail a couple of times now on things I would use once in a blue moon.

 

[Notmyidi]

Yep the orfice tube will be in one of the lines leading to or from the drier, hemostats are your friend for that job. Or the accumulator (same thing depends on who talk to)

Try being a mechanic I got a whole drawer of 3/4 inch stuff I don't use anymore (including a 1200 dollar 3/4 impact) but if I get rid of it ill need it the very next day

sent from my mind via of telepathy

 

[Notmyidi]

Find out the part numbers and prices, I get a hekl off a discount from the ford distribution wharehouse, might be able to ship it to you cheaper than in store ill pm you my cost

sent from my mind via of telepathy

 

[shadow460]

Cool. I have the compressor's part number in the notes on my phone. I found a reman unit for $106 total on ebay. AZ wants $160 for reman. The dryer is $40 and shipping on ebay and around $80 locally. I haven't checked prices on the orifice tube.

I'll check XL Parts on the dryer and orifice tube. They want almost $300 for the compressor, though, which is too much IMO.

 

[Notmyidi]

I'll call my ford parts guy tmrw afternoon. Orfice tu e will be 5-10 dollars max

sent from my mind via of telepathy