99 expedition overhaul

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lunchboxlust

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So I finally started to make some good money and I decided to put it into my expo. New tires, tt, coil spacers, programer and eventually a pa body lift so I decided to do my routine check of everything.

I crawled under it yesterday to check the fluids and I think I have the dreaded head gasket leak. It has always leaked a little oil ever sense I had the lifter springs and valves replaced but it was never enough to see it leaking on to my pass side exhaust like I did yesterday.

I also noticed that my trans fluid is a little low but with all the oil that has splashed on the rest of my shit from driving 80mph on the highway for the last 2 months I couldn't tell if it is a leak or not. It shifts fine with no problems so I hope its just the input and output seals

The t case is also low tho I can not tell where its leaking because all of the oil and the last time I Put it in 4low or high it clunked hard and made a grinding noise going in and out.

My rear diff was also low but it wasn't wet anywhere so I think it is coming out of the seals. But the rims are never wet so I don't think its real bad.

So before I buy a body lift, coil spacers and a tuner i want to fix all the leaks because i use full synthetic fluids for everything so filling the oil is getting expensive and with all the rest leaking its going to compound.

So I have spent the last two days on the forum and searching Google for howto's videos and pictures on some of these things and cant come up with much except some people saying its not to hard or its more cost effective to do this or that. but no real info. I guess I am looking for some threads you guys have booked marked or first hand info, videos or just good websites to get info from.

I plan on doing most if not all the work my self but for t case, axles and engine I will get junk yard ones and rebuild those and just drop them in. I'm not a master tech or anything i haven't rebuilt any of these parts before but with the right info I feel real confident with everything except the engine rebuild.

I want to start with the t case leak and rebuild then move on to axles. I am not sure what t case i have yet I cant find my manual at the moment but like I said all info welcome. The axles are 9.75 with 3.73 and the rear is LS. I have to say I know the least about axles of all the work to be done. I will answer all questions to the best of my ability and take any pics needed in search of help. thanks for reading guys
 
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lunchboxlust

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I do have one i just have to find it. It usually is in my car but I must have taken it out and not put it back in for some reason. Don't remember why tho
 

stamp11127

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Give the underside one hell of a good cleaning and look for the leaks. May end up saving you some time.
 
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lunchboxlust

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Washing the underside is the plan for tomorrow as well as front rotors and pads, air filter, oil change and a good bath and vacuuming. I will top everything off as well. Maybe it will help me find the leaks. I have heard of this UV stuff that you put in the suspected system run it for awhile and use a UV light to find the leak. Anyone ever used or know what it is called I might use it to confirm where the oil leak is?
 

chucks97expy

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I would be against putting any water on the motor itself(under is probably fine) Those COP's are really sensitive to getting wet. I used carb cleaner or brake cleaner to check for leaks as it dries instantly.
 
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lunchboxlust

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Well I forgot it is a holiday so the parts store is closed... But yes I wont be using a hose to clean anything. I did that to a jeep and it ran like crap for a month after. I will wash the underside with a bucket of soap/water and a brush to get most of it off but brake cleaner for the remaining and inside the engine bay.

I also put up a post about tires if any of you have advice.
 
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lunchboxlust

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Update: Well I got the front breaks done yesterday changed oil and topped off all fluids. The rear end and the tcase were not very low, must have just been low enough that my fat fingers couldn't find it... they both took maybe an 8th of a qt so not very low. Makes me happy. I am in the middle of changing the breaks on my fathers 2002 Chevy and I got to say that whoever decided to use torx bit bolts for the caliper slides is my mortal enemy. Striped one bit on my expy no big deal just trade for a new one but on my fathers I striped 2 broke a 1/2 reducer and a 3/8 ratchet. I got one side on the truck done and come to find out that who ever did the job previously used loctite on all bolts... wtf

I also ordered head lights/turns and bulbs, and a rear sway-bar rebuild kit. The kit made it to my house in less that 30 hrs sense I ordered it. The headlights and turns are lightening reproductions and the bulbs are Philips 9007 X-treme Power Headlight Bulbs
 

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lunchboxlust

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I have been looking for 3" coil spring spacers and cant find any anywhere that don't come with torsion keys. ebay, summit, amazon and even a few others. I have seen a few post here and on another forum talking about them. Can any one point me in the right direction? Or can i only get them with keys?
 
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lunchboxlust

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well I found some 3" coil spacers. Ordered them and when they come in im going to take some measurements and fab up some then send them back because 140$ is way to much when I can make em.

I also installed the headlights and the bulbs. They are the brightest bulbs i have ever seen.
 

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thewishkah

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Looking good, I too have some work a head of me. Just recently Ive noticed a clunk when I hit the brakes, sounds like the front drivers side. I have replaced all the brake on the truck including rotors, pads, and parking shoes. Im hoping its the sway bar links but I don't have high hopes. What material are you planning on using for the spacers? I have thought about getting 2in spacers but Im on the fence as my truck barely clears parking garages now with my 315/75/r17's and my light bar on the roof.
 

BIG GREEN FORD

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well I found some 3" coil spacers. Ordered them and when they come in im going to take some measurements and fab up some then send them back because 140$ is way to much when I can make em.

I also installed the headlights and the bulbs. They are the brightest bulbs i have ever seen.

They are really just 2 1/2 not really 3 so I ended up making my own 3 1/2 long
 

BIG GREEN FORD

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Looking good, I too have some work a head of me. Just recently Ive noticed a clunk when I hit the brakes, sounds like the front drivers side. I have replaced all the brake on the truck including rotors, pads, and parking shoes. Im hoping its the sway bar links but I don't have high hopes. What material are you planning on using for the spacers? I have thought about getting 2in spacers but Im on the fence as my truck barely clears parking garages now with my 315/75/r17's and my light bar on the roof.

I made mine out of steel pipe. Works grate
 
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lunchboxlust

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I made mine out of steel pipe. Works grate

Did you end up needing new shocks when you used 3 1/2" spacers? I put shocks on it last summer and am hoping I wont need new for the spacers.

But I am a pipe fitter so pipe and a little plate is my first choice. I just have to see the spacer and the top of the spring pocket so I can make them fit just right. But I was told that we have a spring store in Watertown that will make custom springs. The person didn't know if they did coil springs or leaf bit I'm going to check it out

and I also pulled the trigger on the dick cepek fun countrys... just waiting for them to come in
 
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lunchboxlust

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I got looking at the coil spacer and schedule 40 6" steel pipe is less than an 1/8" larger in diameter so I think I found my material. Now all I have to do is find some plate for top and bottom and find some 2" pipe to use as 3" long stub pieces in the middle to locate the spacer in the center of the spring. Been real busy with everyone else's vehicles and handy man work and apprentice class so I haven't worked on the expy at all. I haven't even adjusted the headlights properly.
 
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lunchboxlust

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So I got the new shoes today. (pics tomorrow) When I got home I got all itchy to put in the coil spacers that I bought instead of waiting till I make the 3" ones. So I removed the sway bar and the end links, (I have new going in) and the shocks. Lifted the truck till both tires were off the ground. Even with the links and shocks unhooked the spacer was hard to get in. When I got the passenger side in I doped both sides just to see how much of a lift I got compared to the other side stock and it was only one inch taller than stock... So I removed the spacer, measured and the passenger side is a little more than an inch lower than the driver. So I think I need new springs. Its probably because of years of torque form the motor no worries. Just looking for info if it available. And yes I did search. I always do but I never seem to find just what I'm looking for. Do I want Variable Rate springs or not? probably not.

advanced website

Moog Coil Spring Set Part No. 81149 $139
no real info

napa website

napa coil springs Part Number: NCP 2773623 $175
Attributes:
Coil Spring Free Height : 18.61"
Coil Spring I.D. : 4.53"
Coil Spring Load Height : 14"
Coil Spring Type : 2 Pigtail Ends
Design Load : 1142
Spring Rate : 248
Wire Diameter : .67"

napa coil springs Variable Rate Part Number: NCP 2775458 $130
Attributes:
Coil Spring Free Height : 17.323"
Coil Spring I.D. : 4.525"
Coil Spring Load Height : 13"
Coil Spring Type : 2 Pigtail Ends
Design Load : 869
Spring Rate : 201
Wire Diameter : .64"

Ebay has some of the Moog springs cheaper but no info and Moog's website doesn't even have springs on their list of parts. None of the springs on fleabay have info

The info on the Napa ones makes me wanna buy them but they are twice as much as the Moog's on Ebay. Any of you guys buy the Moog ones? I just want to know how they measured out and if you were happy with them.
 
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lunchboxlust

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When I did my front breaks the other day the pass caliper gave me a little trouble when I squeezed it back together. not the worse I have ever seen so I decided it was worth trying to use it. Well I was wrong. It did end up locking up on Saturday so I had to put a new one on. :Stupid Me: Second time apart. Got a new one and threw it in bolted tight. Tried to bleed it. Wouldn't bleed. The pistons would come out but fluid wouldn't come out the bleeder even with it removed.:emotions122: Third time apart. Got a new one from a different store from a different refurbisher bolted tight. Tried to bleed it and it bleed alright sept it was from both pistons.:025: Forth time apart. Fing furious at this point so pissed I couldn't even drive myself to the store. The guy at the counter tried to do a defect return which for those of you who don't know means that you don't get a warranty with the new one... I just about through the caliper threw the store window. So after just about fighting the guy at advance I got the new one bolt tight and low and behold everything was right.:big_banana_Dance: happy dance
 

IMINYOURCHAIR

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jesus, it sounds like my luck with anything that touches antifreeze. shit leaks every time I look at it. good to see you're getting it all straightened out.
 
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lunchboxlust

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jesus, it sounds like my luck with anything that touches antifreeze. shit leaks every time I look at it. good to see you're getting it all straightened out.

You should have seen the shit show I had trying to release the ball joints on my father rust bucket plow truck. Went through 2 toque bits 2 pickle forks, a 1/2 breaker bar, a 3/8 ratchet and a sludge hammer. Still cant press out the uppers on the truck so I have to take the arms off, but that's a different story all
together.

I just spent 20 minutes trying to beat out the bushings in the rear links... I give up. Ill find some one with a press after I cut the flat side off. Maybe ill bring the a arms too.
 
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