What oil/filter do you use?

[1955moose]

I don't recommend any oil additives. Your Mobil 1 along with a quality filter, is about as good as it gets. Amsoil is about the only oil that is any better. But keep in mind Porsche uses Mobil 1 from day one in their cars. And those spin a lot faster than our SUVs. Fuel additives are controversial. You could try the Lucas fuel treatment right before you drop oil, as the stronger ones empty some of the debris into oil, or at least that's what I've been told.


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[USMCBuckWild]

Most oil additives are basicaly nothing more than an additive package that your oil already has (not everything is "more is better") mixed with a heavier oil base that makes it appear "stickier". The problem is that the additives and cheap base oil product break down with high heat and become "gummy" which is inherently bad for engines with small oil passages, especially since most people add the crap to their oil and go WAY longer between oil changes.

Oil additives are especially bad for turbo engines, which tend to be much more abusive to oil and its additives. Big diesels (industrial and over the road like tractor trailers) don't have as small of oil passages, espcially in and around the turbo.

Turbo engines are very hard on oil. Running oil through a small engine turbo spinning at 60,000 to 100,000 rpm is the equivalent of taking a blow torch to small amounts of the oil. And this is done continuously. Most turbos are very small babbet bearings supporting a small shaft (around .25") driven by exhaust gas at ridiculous rpms. Again why I feel so strongly about my positive experiences with T6 after abusing the living hell out of my turbo Subaru wagon.


Excellent read about oil additives and an independent paboratory test of them:

http://cdn2.hubspot.net/hub/68152/f...bell_performance_xtra_lube_four_ball_0709.pdf

 

[1955moose]

An oil cooler is always a good idea. That's why a lot of our vehicles with tow package have them. especially on vehicles that lead a hard life. Race cars come to mind. These SUVs have a tough enough time keeping parts oiled, especially with plastic chain guides breaking down clogging the screen on oil pump. Clean fluid is the way to go. Leave the additives to some poor slob that doesn't know better. Our members are an educated group, that's getting more knowledgeable all the time.


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[USMCBuckWild]

Hit 100k!!! Oh boy!!


Finally got to my 5k mile interval on my Rotella T6 oil experiment. Going to pull a sample, pack it up to ship to Blackstone and change the oil. So far the oil has darkened quite a bit, which is to be expected but I haven't lost any.

I did the first oil change after swapping to T6 at 550 miles and the oil was BLACK! To be expected with the amount of detergent in the better quality oil. This oil was dark, but no where close to as dirty. My expectation is that the oil will come back well within spec (even at 5k miles) and I expect to be able to run the oil up to 10k miles. We'll see if I am right in a week or so.

 

[Adieu]

Hit 100k!!! Oh boy!!


Finally got to my 5k mile interval on my Rotella T6 oil experiment. Going to pull a sample, pack it up to ship to Blackstone and change the oil. So far the oil has darkened quite a bit, which is to be expected but I haven't lost any.

I did the first oil change after swapping to T6 at 550 miles and the oil was BLACK! To be expected with the amount of detergent in the better quality oil. This oil was dark, but no where close to as dirty. My expectation is that the oil will come back well within spec (even at 5k miles) and I expect to be able to run the oil up to 10k miles. We'll see if I am right in a week or so.

Were you right?

 

[Adieu]

Fran has a glued bottom to the media filter. Several have been cut open through the years. The quality of Fram was lacking compared to other brands.

The weight of a filter has nothing to do with quality. Most of the weight attributes to the case thickness and over all size.

Pick an oil based off of your knowledge and personal experience.

I showed that Dino oil has kept my truck alive for 370K miles.

I have run Dello 400 in my 99 PSD. I sold it with 325xxx miles. Current owner has 550xxx miles on it currently.

My father in law had a 96 PSD with 700xxx miles when he gave it to his daughter. Dello400

Take care of your vehicle and it will take care of you.

CJ

PSD is?? Powerstroke Diesel?

 

[08T1]

PSD is powerstroke diesel.

 

[sjwelds]

Always been a motorcraft oil and filter guy. Last time around took it to my Ford dealership and they stuck in some "DuraMAX" full synthetic oil, without even asking me. Kinda hacked me off. May take my business elsewhere next time.

 

[johnboneske]

Mobile 1 synthetic and Fram top filter which is an Extended guard filter. I use 5W30 in my Expedition and 0W30 in my wife's Trailblazer. Change it every 10 roughly. Have never had one issue.

Alot of people will knock Fram and Mobile 1, I have heard stories of people having issues with either one, but have never seen any concrete evidence from anyone ever.

 

[johnboneske]

Anyone who changes their oil every 3k is a moron!! Look at the owners manual, the manufacturer knows better than anyone when to change it. The Stealership, and oil change places lie to you...

I use Mobile 1 extended good for up to 15k. As I didn't state that in my last post.

 

[lbv150]

Anyone who changes their oil every 3k is a moron!! Look at the owners manual, the manufacturer knows better than anyone when to change it. The Stealership, and oil change places lie to you...

I use Mobile 1 extended good for up to 15k. As I didn't state that in my last post.

Thanks for the insult...you must be a left leaning liberal.

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

Thanks for the insult...you must be a left leaning liberal.

And injecting politics into a completely unrelated conversation like a child tugging at mommy's shirt tail for attention makes you an idiot.

Anyone who changes their oil every 3k is a moron!! Look at the owners manual, the manufacturer knows better than anyone when to change it. The Stealership, and oil change places lie to you...

I use Mobile 1 extended good for up to 15k. As I didn't state that in my last post.

I agree. There is absolutely no scientific evidence to support changing the oil every 3K in a healthy engine. None. Zero. Head on over to BITOG and look at every single analysis posted of oil at 5-6K and even the generic oil is still only starting to show signs of breakdown at that mileage. The same people who change the oil at 3K are usually the ones changing their platinum spark plugs at 40K, their coils every time they change the spark plugs, their air filter every oil change and their O2 sensors just because. They don't have any scientific reason for doing so; they just do it because somewhere along the way they heard/read they were supposed to do it from someone.

 

[1955moose]

John, their not morons, just being overly cautious. We were so used to changing oil at 3k, that we still feel we have to. Back in the day when all we had was petroleum oil, you had to drop oil at no longer than 3,500. Reason was oil started to break down, and was losing its ability to protect. Full synthetics will go out to 15k, but you still have dirty oil pumping through your motor. I changed my oil/filter last weekend with a tick above 6k. I run Mobil 1 5w30, with a premium fram filter. I know I could go way further, but I do a lot of low mileage stop and go driving. The reason I run fram is my 4x4 is a pain to get filter off, the fram has the rough grippy stuff at the end. 3 years, and 26,000 miles, no issues.


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[johnboneske]

Ironically, I didnt see anyone say anything about changing it every 3k miles. And, NO... I am NOT a liberal. I have NEVER voted for a Dumocrat!

 

[johnboneske]

Back in the day, if you remember if a car went 100k it was VERY unusual... Now most cars dont even require a "tune up" until 100K. Tolerances of engines are much tighter today too.

 

[1955moose]

Metalurgy, along with improvements in oil and coolants have a lot to do with longevity of modern engines. Datsun, Honda and Toyota are examples of using quality parts, even back in the 70's and eighties. My Datsun 240z had 180 k on it when I sold it. My brother had a 79 Toyota pickup with a tick over 300k. Try getting that mileage on an American 4 cylinder back in the day. It took until the late 90's and later before American vehicle quality even began to nip on the heels of the Japanese and Germans. Shame we fought them both back in the day, but they won the financial war in the end.

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[USMCBuckWild]

Metalurgy, along with improvements in oil and coolants have a lot to do with longevity of modern engines. Datsun, Honda and Toyota are examples of using quality parts, even back in the 70's and eighties. My Datsun 240z had 180 k on it when I sold it. My brother had a 79 Toyota pickup with a tick over 300k. Try getting that mileage on an American 4 cylinder back in the day. It took until the late 90's and later before American vehicle quality even began to nip on the heels of the Japanese and Germans. Shame we fought them both back in the day, but they won the financial war in the end.

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One of the big reasons for the 3k oci back in the day was the leaded gas. Majority of it burned off but lead contaminants are very hard on oil. I know leaded gas ceased a long time ago, but some things just carry over.

But you are correct; better fluids, better materials, better tolerances, better designs all equate to longer lasting engines and less wear when properly maintained.

There are some pure dino oils that can run 10k, but they are more highly refined with better additive packages and expensive.

 

[1955moose]

Hadn't thought about the lead in fuel! Good point. Back in the day, bureaucrats could care less who died from lead poisoning, from exhaust household paint, or any of the environment problems of the day. Good point about the fuel.

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[Pappy]

I just ran into this tidbit. Rotella T6 5W-40 is no longer API SN certified. T6 5W-30 is, but not 5W-40.

https://rotella.shell.com/products/t6-full-synthetic.html
https://rotella.shell.com/products/...-vehicle-5w-30-full-synthetic-heavy-duty.html

 

[USMCBuckWild]

I just ran into this tidbit. Rotella T6 5W-40 is no longer API SN certified. T6 5W-30 is, but not 5W-40.

https://rotella.shell.com/products/t6-full-synthetic.html
https://rotella.shell.com/products/...-vehicle-5w-30-full-synthetic-heavy-duty.html

The reason T6 is no longer 'S' rated is that the new S Specification calls for no more than 0.08 % phosphorus. The previous S Spec was no more than 0.10 % phosphorus. But, the new CK4 diesel Spec allows 0.12%.

The "lower" phosphorus levels are a definitive difference in the diesel vs gas oil specs, where previously there was less differential between the 2. Phosphorus is known to be much more resistant to ash degradation as well as a 'lubricant' in its own right. But, high levels of phosphorus (especially in a vehicle that burns oil) has been known to affect gas engine catlytic convertors. Hence the dropping of the SN rating (which is supposed to support engines built after 2010 with a high fuel economy requirement). T6 still fulfills the GF-5 passenger car oil spec though, which is ACTUALLY the baseline for SN.

Basically the .gov forced them to choose a diesel oil or a passenger car oil. Shell chose to dedicate T6 as a diesel oil, then blended it to be a 5w30 at 0.08% phosphorus and rebranded it as "T6 Multi-vehicle" to appeal to a broader market.

Meh, changes nothing for me. In all actuality the CK4 spec supercedes the SF-5 and SN spec in all ways except the phosphorus.