Had my truck rust treated today (pics)

[Muddy Bean]

Took my truck across the border into Canada and had Krown treat it today. They drilled holes in all of the body panels and rocker panels. Pulled the tail light housings and sprayed their Krown oil into every hole and orifice. Then they lifted the truck and sprayed the entire undercarriage, wheel wells, everything. They sprayed the engine compartment door sills, liftgate sills. Very very thorough. I was impressed. Not my first Krown experience but the first time with the Expedition. I’ll have it treated again this coming summer and then just have it done yearly after that.


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[gixer2000]

Awesome! I wish I had my 07 since it was new or closer because I would have been all over this. For me the rust is already well on its way so ive been sanding and using por15 on it as I find it and have oil sprayed everything myself. My next new car will get this treatment immediately

 

[Muddy Bean]

Gixer, I think your closest Krown service center is in Vermont. Double check


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[JExpedition07]

it’s never too late to do the rust treatment. I spray everything underneath and in the holes with fluid film as I’ve talked to some people who have had great success with it, everyone says it stops existing rust in its tracks as well so we will see how it holds up. It collects a coating of dust and then just becomes a tacky dry film over the stuff.

 

[Flexpedition]

Any thoughts as to why they didn't drop the spare tire and set it aside? Seems like access would be better and the tire not subject to absorbing so much petroleum based oil.

I'd probably pull the tow ball mount too since crude likes to hide in the receiver tube.

Is your planned second application just to get you on a yearly schedule that falls in the summer months?

 

[Muddy Bean]

Any thoughts as to why they didn't drop the spare tire and set it aside? Seems like access would be better and the tire not subject to absorbing so much petroleum based oil.

I'd probably pull the tow ball mount too since crude likes to hide in the receiver tube.

Is your planned second application just to get you on a yearly schedule that falls in the summer months?

The tech took a looong nose hose and was able to throughly spray underneath the spare. I could have removed it beforehand and frankly I think I will when I get my summer treatment. Good idea. I’m not worried about my spare absorbing the stuff. It’s going to be swapped with a KO2 and I’ve had this stuff sprayed on my previous trucks spare for years and never had a problem.

Yes to the second question, I want to be on a yearly summer schedule. When it’s this cold, even though the oil is being applied at 160 degrees inside a heated shop, once I get outside, it freezes and doesn’t flow well. The truck is then dripping oil on and off for months. After a summer treatment, it drips and slobbers for a couple of weeks and you’re done. Also, from what I understand, rust doesn’t occur below freezing as much as it does when the temps rise. Technically spring is the best time to get treated because of this, but I can’t get back into town until June. So my yearly schedule should be June to June...sorry long answer to your simple question

And this is why I have this done:




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[gixer2000]

Gixer, I think your closest Krown service center is in Vermont. Double check


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Yeah there's one in Vermont and New York and New Jersey. I visit NY and NJ more often than Vermont so I may Look into having this done anyway. What was the cost in your area?

 

[Muddy Bean]

$130 plus tax


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[gixer2000]

$130 plus tax


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Wow I thought it may be more expensive. Good stuff

 

[rjdelp7]

I have had this done 6 or 7 times. Carwell(Krown)$95 and Rustkote$80. It helps but...what does not drip on to driveway, evaporates or washes off(rain washed off driveway). My rear wheel wells were dry, after a month. My battery died(sudden) a couple of days after getting sprayed. They sprayed the wires and terminals. There was a pool on top of battery. Carwell said there was no connection, but who knows. I complained about dry wheel wells and was given a re-spray. They soaked it, this time. The wheel wells were dry in a month. My brake line and trailing arms still rusted out. I had the door panel off, I could not not see any product inside. While waiting at shop, a customer was complaining, about the same thing. He used an inspection camera in the "holes". This year, I am switching to to Rust Stop. It is a thick foamy, no drip film, that can last for years. $70 for undercarriage, $120 for complete. I will let everyone know, how it looks. I knew a guy who did this himself. He used, old motor oil, transmission fluid and kerosene. He spayed it in his yard. He said it is messy, but cost almost nothing.

 

[cekkk]

I'd rather keep my Expeditions clean and spend the money on great pizza. Have had four, all lived at 9000' elevation and traveled salted and mag chloride roads. No problems. But your experience may vary.

 

[ExplorerTom]

$130 plus tax

Is that the initial cost or the cost each time?

 

[ExplorerTom]

I'd rather keep my Expeditions clean and spend the money on great pizza. Have had four, all lived at 9000' elevation and traveled salted and mag chloride roads. No problems. But your experience may vary.

In CO, cars don't rust- at least down in the city. It's too dry. Snow doesn't really melt- it evaporates.

My 2000, that's been registered in CO its entire life is rust free. My '97 Explorer is also rust free.

 

[cekkk]

ExplorerTom, you're right about the evap. But city roads are salted, I believe (we didn't get into the cities often) and the mag chloride they used to fight dust on our road was at least as corrosive as NaCl. CDoT did a study on the effects of the two years ago. Their effects differed according to the environment they were used in. So I always assumed frequent washing of the undercarriage along with the rest of the vehicles was necessary. Maybe I wasted a bit of water.

Beyond frame rust, brake shoe rust can be a problem if not kept clean.

But rust in Colorado is nothing compared to what we experienced when we lived in Maryland near the ocean. Now in SoCal, a dozen air miles from the Pacific, I don't hear much complaining. But we're new here!

 

[ExplorerTom]

Driving around any number of the rust belt states, you can see through a lot of the cars on the road. In CO, they do treat the roads with a variety of things, but nothing rusts like it does out east.

 

[Wali4vr]

He used, old motor oil, transmission fluid and kerosene. He spayed it in his yard. He said it is messy, but cost almost nothing.

Sounds like a rolling fire bomb. If the Leo's or his insurance Co. Finds out he is Not going to be Happy.

 

[JExpedition07]

Many old guys have had great success spraying used motor oil underneath, but I agree why kerosene and tranny fluid.

 

[Muddy Bean]

I have had this done 6 or 7 times. Carwell(Krown)$95 and Rustkote$80. It helps but...what does not drip on to driveway, evaporates or washes off(rain washed off driveway). My rear wheel wells were dry, after a month. My battery died(sudden) a couple of days after getting sprayed. They sprayed the wires and terminals. There was a pool on top of battery. Carwell said there was no connection, but who knows. I complained about dry wheel wells and was given a re-spray. They soaked it, this time. The wheel wells were dry in a month. My brake line and trailing arms still rusted out. I had the door panel off, I could not not see any product inside. While waiting at shop, a customer was complaining, about the same thing. He used an inspection camera in the "holes". This year, I am switching to to Rust Stop. It is a thick foamy, no drip film, that can last for years. $70 for undercarriage, $120 for complete. I will let everyone know, how it looks. I knew a guy who did this himself. He used, old motor oil, transmission fluid and kerosene. He spayed it in his yard. He said it is messy, but cost almost nothing.

It sounds like you had a bad service Center. I’ve never heard of anything like this. My Land Cruiser had just under 300,000 miles on her was was 20 years old when I traded in for my EL. These are underbody shots a month before I traded it in...was Krowned every couple years:


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[rjdelp7]

It sounds like you had a bad service Center. I’ve never heard of anything like this. My Land Cruiser had just under 300,000 miles on her was was 20 years old when I traded in for my EL. These are underbody shots a month before I traded it in...was Krowned every couple years:


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********. You can still see the drips, it was just sprayed. You expect people to believe, you spent money to undercoat a 20yr old 300K truck, you traded in a month later? No dealer would take something that old or high mileage, as a trade. If they did, it was scrap price. I doubt you "give away" a car, in almost new condition. I have 2001 Lincoln, that spent most of its life in Florida. The underside looks almost brand new. Did this 300K Toyota, get driven in winter and salt covered roads or Arizona? Even your bare metal E brake cable has no surface rust. Toyota also factory undercoats. Nice try Krown.

 

[XR4Ti]

For the spare tire, I would just lower it before spraying. They can drive it into the bay slowly (tell them in advance) and will have no problem spraying above it. I would also pull many of the access plugs and show them where they can get in to spray.

And like another poster said, pull the hitch and spray around and in the receiver.

I've been Krowning my 2005 for several years. After having issues with how sloppy they did it (missed spots, wouldn't do the areas around the lower body panel trim), I just purchased a 5gal can of their T40 as I've got a few vehicles to do. It used to be silicone-based but apparently a few years ago (2 yrs?) they added some petroleum stock to it so it is now thicker and will swell certain rubber plugs/weatherstripping if you don't pre-treat them (I use a silicone spray).

That said, it all depends on where you live. Here in Ottawa, where there's 3 different salt mixtures used on the roads during the winter, and it's damp all season, you learn not to get attached to your vehicles. Despite annual spraying (except last year), I still had the lower rocker panels, brake lines where they run behind the frame mount, and just this year, the rear psgr fender well at the rocker and lower rad support cross member rust out (which doesn't actually support the rad but does hold the trans and PS coolers).

As for the poster that lost a battery, be careful spraying the engine bay. The alternator (on the '05) is in an easy line of sight and when hit with this stuff, will not charge until it's worn off. I would have pinned your problem on the alternator, but then you would have seen it not charging.