06 coil brand?

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tdavid13

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I looking into replacing plugs and coils. The plugs are a given motorcraft, but what about the coils? Should you stick with motorcraft or go with another brand? Places online are selling sets of 8 with a lifetime warranty for about $40. Is it worth the risk?
give me your thoughts
 

1955moose

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As far as the cheapies, no. Members have gotten full Motorcraft sets online for around $80.00. we've heard the Accel brand online have held up well also. $65.00 I think. Honestly though if you still have the OEM Ford ones, just change the boots on them, and leave the coils alone unless you've got a misfire. Even then replace just the one coil. The plugs definitely, with Ford one piece type.

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JExpedition07

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Honestly here is the best thing to do:
As Moose said just change all the plugs and boots. Buy one (1) spare OEM Motorcraft coil and keep it on the truck should one ever fail. Plugs foul and boots get brittle and crack. Coils aren’t like plugs in that they have an indefinite lifespan. It’s not a wear item.
 

johnboneske

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I am the one person here who says the "generic" ones are good. I have put a set in both of my my expeditions from Amazon for about $35/shipped and NEVER had a problem with them. I will buy them again next Expedition too. I also would put in a set of Bosch Iridiums over the Motorcraft platinums... Again, I have used Bosch Iridiums on both my Expeditions and love them! They last longer and seems smoother to me.
 

Habbibie

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David, what year expedition do you own? It makes a difference to know if it's a 2v 5.4L or 4.6L (03-04) or a 3v 5.4L (05-06)?
 

TobyU

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I also have had no early failures on the aftermarket ones off eBay. Have used 4-5 different brands and colors.
My first set of aftermarkets was in 2000 8 for a V10. I use the yellow ones off of eBay. It was nine years and have replaced one of them for some occasional misfires. I ended up replacing one other one about a year later. Then I did a few sets three to four years ago and those are all still fine. I just did a set 2 weeks ago on a 32 valve Navigator so hoping nose hold up for at least 4-5 years.
I am ultimately a cheapskate and even though The Navigators are a little hard to change I would still be much happier using these at under $40 for the entire set as long as I get over 3 years out of them versus paying a lot more for OEM or Motorcraft. This is my first navigator and my wife had an expedition with a 5.4 2 valve for five or six years. Most of my Ford have been Town Cars. I wouldn't consider using anything--but aftermarket in the town cars as I can change the entire set of coils in about 15 minutes.
I didn't see how many miles your engine had on it but I'm assuming it's less than a 150k. If it's lower like that then I would suggest as others have as just replacing the boots and plugs. You're going to find all kinds of moisture and debris in at least a few of the plug wells.
I think a small air compressor and a blowgun is a must for doing these. You can get by by pulling one out and taking the plug out and starting the engine for 3 or 4 seconds to blow everything out but I would still rather just use compressed air and blow everything out while the plug is still in the cylinder head.
A set of boots even at the parts store is under $30 even on the high end. I always remove the spring from the coil terminal inside and spray a little WD-40 or something on it and sometimes wipe it off with a Q-tip before putting the spring back on making sure it's a nice snug fit. You can get into the whole Dielectric grease discussion but that's a whole can of worms. You can coat the inside of the boots and the outside of the boots with Dielectric grease but you shouldn't have an overabundance on the terminal where the spring hooks to or the tip of the spark plug. Just wiping off any huge noticeable amounts with a cloth before sticking it on the plug is fine.
Then you can always keep an eye on it with a code scanner and see if you get any repeated misfire counts how many cylinders but more than likely it will be just fine. It's pretty easy to feel ignition coil miss on one of these at least when it's a constant mess from a call being bad and not firing multiple times.
I have had them work fine until they get hot and I have had some that little would only fire about three to four Sparks when you plug them in. Then went that would go into a constant dead miss or only fire once or twice about every 10 to 20 times they're supposed to fire.
I always keep old coils that I remove from vehicles for test purposes and for quick replacements.
 

CaptOchs

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I have a year and a half on these coils for my 2003 5.4; https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Lin...automotive&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive. Bought them for $35. Figure for the cost of buying one OEM coil, I could replace all 8 two times over. lol. These coils have 4.5 / 5 stars. As far as cheaper ones go they are highly rated. I tow a 7000# camper and have noticed no loss of performance over the originals before they went.
 
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TobyU

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Save yourself the headache go OEM

I just can't justify the cost until these cheap ones prove to be unreliable or too short lived. The hardest one I have to do is either v10 in Excursion or 32v Intech in Navigator. Plugs are the hard part. I can pop a coil in or do them all in just a few minutes.
What are oem ones now?? 55-65 each minimum. I used to pay 72 at dealer in the late 90s.
I get sets of 8 in pretty colors too LOL for under 35.00
That's too much rationalization and justifying for me.
But I am one cheap bastard.... until something proves lousy.
I only buy Heinz ketchup and Paul Mitchell Super Clean hair gel.
I own 1 9/16 Snap On wrench because I found it on the street.
I have Craftsman tools most purchased as a set in the late 80s, some Stanley ratchets, some Husky socktet sets, some Gearwrench ratcheting combo, and some Crewline nice polished wrenches from Autoworks in 1990.
Have pulled and rebuilt engines and transmissions, done about every repair a vehicle can need since I only buy older vehicles usually 10-12 years old. Newest I ever bought was a 5 year old one one time and 6 another. All the rest have been 10+.
You have to balance out cheaper but not too cheap.
The off brand vise grips are not worth putting in your toolbox.
I remember the off brand 40 pc flea market style socket sets for 4.99 in about 1978. Crappy. But the large 1/2 drive 1" and 1-1/16" were actually pretty strong. Thick walled but strong.
Gotta find what works. Sometimes we spend a lot of needless amount to get not much difference but name or box.
 

Trainmaster

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You get what you pay for. How valuable's your time? I buy OEM whenever I can and have always had a very reliable fleet of 15 year old cars I could drive cross country. I've virtually never had to re-do a repair but I spend a bit of money.

As far as Ford coils go, on an Expedition and Excursion, each of which logged 250K miles over 15 years, I've changed three coils. Ford OEM.

Certainly if I was 20 years old again and poor, I'd be buying whatever I could afford. Probably doing a lot more work also.
 
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1955moose

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On the tool part I agree to a point. The larger sockets above 17 mm, or 11/16, lower priced 6 points are fine. But below that size, I have snap on or Matco, or Mac. They just fit better, and in some cases you can't "afford" to strip out a bolt head. Some areas on a vehicle, you don't get a second chance, that's why I pieced my set together with the better stuff years back when they and I could afford. Snap on is out of this world on prices. A 3/8 inch standard length ratchet is like $95.00 these days. When I bought my 2, they were $40.00, I thought that was high.

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Jb14

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TobyU, I get it I did the same thing and purchased aftermarket and they ran fine for a while. Then after a while, something started to feel off (you know we know our trucks and if something ticks different we know it) Then driving down the road I can't get past 40 cuz truck is cutting out engine light flashing. Took to mechanic and sure enough coil pack went out, that happened twice which cost me more at the mechanic than getting the OEMs. So I searched alternative sources and found OEM COP's for about the same cost as the aftermarket and replaced them all.

Everyone has a different situation and this is just my experience yours could be different.
 

johnboneske

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I disagree with you guys 100%! There is nothing wrong with the aftermarket cheap ones I have never had a problem. What you pay for one coil, is what i pay for 8. And, do you honestly believe that everyone makes their own coils? The good ones you probably buy are the same as the cheap ones I get, with a different name.on it.

Kinda like buying 14 or 12 gauge speaker wire when zip/lamp cord is the same thing. Just cause it says monster cable on it doesn't make it any better...
 

TobyU

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Well, I had my first set of off-brand eBay coils in for almost 10 years before one started to misfire occasionally so I can only hope that the sets I buy currently last as well.
That can be the problem sometimes as quality goes up and down over the years. High quality like oem can slip off greatly and have problems before they finally change something and what can start out as cheap junk can improve their game and get to be very good quality.
Unfortunately, today, you don't always get what you pay for. There are so many things out there that no matter what price you're willing to pay you can't get anywhere near the quality you used to be able to when you bought the majority of items.
And when you've got it all figured out some brand that you're buying switches manufacturer contract and things change again.
 

1955moose

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The biggest deal with these coil on plugs is getting them wet. That's why when you smell coolant, you need to jump on it right away. That and don't ever hose down the motor without wrapping all 8 coils. If your paying someone to work on your SUV, then you weigh the savings vs labor charge. But from all the purchase of cheaper coil's not failing, vs the very few that do, I'm going to have to reconsider recommending dealer only coils. The cheapies seem to work, and like others saiis, keep around 4-5 good old ones for spares .


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TobyU

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I did forget to mention in my earlier post that my theory on using the cheap coils it's only because cause I do the work myself. If you were paying Shop prices to get something, heck most even charge you a diagnostic fee just to tell you which coil is missing, then it would be best to bite the bullet and buy the highest Quality Coils you can and hope for the best.
But this is where a "tune up" ends up being over $800 and most garages.
If you have someone that you can swing by their house or something and just have them swap out a coil that you know is bad and you supply your own parts for under $20 then it's still best to go with a cheap coils.
All my theory is based on the assumption you have a code scanner and can see exactly which coil or coils are misfiring and you are able to do the work yourself. The vast majority of my repairs are on Lincoln Town Cars and they are quite easy to do the coils. The 5.4 2 valves are also pretty easy but being in higher vehicles they're a little bit more annoying to get too. I don't recall the three vows being any harder to get to. The worst I believe is the 32-valve like in the Navigator I just did. Because they're not on top between the manifold and head and a wedge design like most fords. They're hemi style heads with the coils going right in the middle and they have the cover you have to remove and sneak out of there before you can even see the coils.
I still did The Navigators without even removing the plastic top engine Beauty cover, or the air filter or snorkel or anything else. All you have to do is lift up the one house that lays on top of the passenger valve cover and the top plastic UD cover hold it up there nicely when you stick it underneath it. Then I did remove the two bolts on the power steering reservoir bracket and lean it out of the way to make it a little easier on the driver side. It's still pretty easy but not as easy as the coils that are right up top by the intake. One good thing about these is there's no 7mm bolt that holds the coils in. I think that's just a dumb design and makes it harder to take out the coils that needs to be. They could have simply put a small stud style locking clip that you press the call. Over. Having to turn that screw so many times it's just annoying. It goes into plastic on the manifold anyways. On the 32 valve 5.4 they just sit in the holes and the top cover holds them in place.
 

johnboneske

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I did forget to mention in my earlier post that my theory on using the cheap coils it's only because cause I do the work myself. If you were paying Shop prices to get something, heck most even charge you a diagnostic fee just to tell you which coil is missing, then it would be best to bite the bullet and buy the highest Quality Coils you can and hope for the best.
But this is where a "tune up" ends up being over $800 and most garages.
If you have someone that you can swing by their house or something and just have them swap out a coil that you know is bad and you supply your own parts for under $20 then it's still best to go with a cheap coils.
All my theory is based on the assumption you have a code scanner and can see exactly which coil or coils are misfiring and you are able to do the work yourself. The vast majority of my repairs are on Lincoln Town Cars and they are quite easy to do the coils. The 5.4 2 valves are also pretty easy but being in higher vehicles they're a little bit more annoying to get too. I don't recall the three vows being any harder to get to. The worst I believe is the 32-valve like in the Navigator I just did. Because they're not on top between the manifold and head and a wedge design like most fords. They're hemi style heads with the coils going right in the middle and they have the cover you have to remove and sneak out of there before you can even see the coils.
I still did The Navigators without even removing the plastic top engine Beauty cover, or the air filter or snorkel or anything else. All you have to do is lift up the one house that lays on top of the passenger valve cover and the top plastic UD cover hold it up there nicely when you stick it underneath it. Then I did remove the two bolts on the power steering reservoir bracket and lean it out of the way to make it a little easier on the driver side. It's still pretty easy but not as easy as the coils that are right up top by the intake. One good thing about these is there's no 7mm bolt that holds the coils in. I think that's just a dumb design and makes it harder to take out the coils that needs to be. They could have simply put a small stud style locking clip that you press the call. Over. Having to turn that screw so many times it's just annoying. It goes into plastic on the manifold anyways. On the 32 valve 5.4 they just sit in the holes and the top cover holds them in place.


I kinda find humor about shops charging a fee to read a check engine code when you can go to Advance auto, AutoZone, Orielys, etc and they do it for free
 

TobyU

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I kinda find humor about shops charging a fee to read a check engine code when you can go to Advance auto, AutoZone, Orielys, etc and they do it for free


I know but the way most shops work is they get all defensive and combative if you walk in and ask them to chance number 8 plug coil. Then when you tell them you have the coil....THEIR head spins around!!!

Some small individual owned shops will work with you but not many.

They want you to play their way. Quit rocking the boat!!!

Take car in say its running poorly missing or something.
Let them charge you 40-80.00 to "diagnose" it.
Tell you it needs a major tune up service since it has original plugs and stuff and over 150K miles and that the:

8 new plugs
8 new electronic coil on plug ignition modules
8 new insulated spark boot (yes all coils come with them but lets mention them anyway)
Throttle body cleaning/service
Mass air flow sensor cleaning
New air filter
Oil change and filter (might as well be ready to hit the road right??)

Will only be 1128.00!
We take credit cards or you can apply with this brochure here for a credit line.
 
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