New to me 2007 EL LIMITED & all it's problems

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Ben Ford

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Cycle the ignition switch 2 or 3 times, for 3 seconds, to the run position before starting, that will prime the fuel rail until you are able to replace the pump.
Thanks for the advice. This worked for a time then increasingly got worse. Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter today. Starts up first time Everytime!!!


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Ben Ford

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Just thought I'd update those of you following this thread.

So, I've replaced both hydraulic brake lines due to it pulling to the right when braking hard. After replacing it, it no longer pulls under braking.

Replaced both wheel bearings and slight vibration and noise gone.

Last week had a new code come through my check engine light. #1 & #3 cylinders misfire. So I replaced all for on bank one because of mileage and if two go more to follow. Noticed it would still stumble when it first started and thought it had to do with a sign of bank two coils going. So I replaced all four this past week. Definite improvement just not what I had expected.

The hard start was getting worse after cycling the key three times and then turning it over three times it would start. Finally decided I had enough and I replaced the fuel pump today. Starts up Everytime!! Replacing all the spark plugs, all the coil packs, and the fuel pump has really woke it up!! This thing feels like a different animal!!

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Gamecock

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I have a 2007 EL EB and have had my share of quirts and issues. Some bigger than others. I bought mine of my folks a couple years ago with only 115K on her, now at 160+.

Currently having a front vibration issue with speed. Noticeable at 60 MPH+ and when I even tap the gas on the highway. Occasionally shakes just accelerating on any road. I'm guessing either mounts, control arms, etc in the front. Gonna get it checked out when I go in for an oil change in a week or so. Hopefully not major.

Second is brakes. I replaced the rotors and pads last summer with HD Powerstops (cross drilled) and they worked good until I cooked them on a long trip from GA to NY and back. Lots of trucks pulling out and had to brake hard with it loaded down with family, luggage, and a roof storage box. Probably need the front replaced. But I have always had crappy brakes with this thing. I'm guess in need to replace either the lines or a caliper rebuild. Just don't have the time I used to as the kids have gotten older and need more "dad taxi".

EVAP leak, but I've just limped it along with cans of refrigerant from Autozone, $40 versus $1500. Easy choice. As long as it cools we are good. Cooling seats don't work, but heated ones do (I fixed those myself when it burned out 1.5 years ago)

Other than those I get compliments all the time on how clean it is and how good the paint is, etc. I keep her clean and tinted all the windows dark so its a good ride. Armrest and drivers seat is starting to crack a bit, but minor.

Overall its a good vehicle, but not as reliable as my Sport Trac (2003 XLT) was, but it has a lot more options on it.
 

Gamecock

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Good some things addressed by my local garage this week. The vibration issue was due to tires/balance issue so I had them all rotated, weighted and load balanced it instead of just the crappy Firestone wheel balance....huge difference. Then got new rotors, scuffed the pads (they were still meaty), and then rebuilt both calipers (was pulling to left back on heavy braking) and new brake lines. All should be well now.
 
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Ben Ford

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The heated/cooled seats went out on the front driver and passenger side. I did some research and found that the plug into the climate control module for the seats burns up due to a defect.

008572d090e31c8223eeeafe9c0f0ef3.jpg

So I ordered the plug wired it up

9cf67876381c2c018d202aee02c7a45c.jpg

and it didn’t work.... so I ordered a new control module and that didn’t work....

I learned that after installing a new one that you have to remove power from it by removing the #8 fuse in the fuse box under the hood. I did so for the recommended 2 minutes and they worked like they had before. Problem fixed!!


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cmiles97

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My friends pick on mine saying FORD stands for Fix Or Repair Daily. I had Cherokee and 2 Wranglers with high mileage that required constant little things to be repaired. Both ran great but the nickel & dime stuff was enough to sell them to someone with more patience.

You can keep anything on the road with enough time and $$$.

Sounds like you are the right man for your Expy. It's a body on frame truck with TLC (that you are providing) no reason it won't get double the mileage.

Good luck.
 
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1955moose

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Found on the road dead is one of the others!

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TobyU

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I have a 2007 EL EB and have had my share of quirts and issues. Some bigger than others. I bought mine of my folks a couple years ago with only 115K on her, now at 160+.

Currently having a front vibration issue with speed. Noticeable at 60 MPH+ and when I even tap the gas on the highway. Occasionally shakes just accelerating on any road. I'm guessing either mounts, control arms, etc in the front. Gonna get it checked out when I go in for an oil change in a week or so. Hopefully not major.

Second is brakes. I replaced the rotors and pads last summer with HD Powerstops (cross drilled) and they worked good until I cooked them on a long trip from GA to NY and back. Lots of trucks pulling out and had to brake hard with it loaded down with family, luggage, and a roof storage box. Probably need the front replaced. But I have always had crappy brakes with this thing. I'm guess in need to replace either the lines or a caliper rebuild. Just don't have the time I used to as the kids have gotten older and need more "dad taxi".

EVAP leak, but I've just limped it along with cans of refrigerant from Autozone, $40 versus $1500. Easy choice. As long as it cools we are good. Cooling seats don't work, but heated ones do (I fixed those myself when it burned out 1.5 years ago)

Other than those I get compliments all the time on how clean it is and how good the paint is, etc. I keep her clean and tinted all the windows dark so its a good ride. Armrest and drivers seat is starting to crack a bit, but minor.

Overall its a good vehicle, but not as reliable as my Sport Trac (2003 XLT) was, but it has a lot more options on it.

For that AC evap leak, go get Red Angel ac stop leak. It comes in pressurized can with tube and a 2 oz liquid bottle. I have an injector so I like the liquid bottle a lot better.
This is the ONLY ac stop leak I have used to date that works and doesn't clog anything up.

It will make a 2 week leak a 2-3 month leak an a once a season leak non existent.

It is a little over 30.00 though, but they have a money back guarantee.
They changed the way they do it recently. They use to send you a new bottle if you called them. I had one not work about 10 years ago. Now you mail them the empty bottle and receipt and copy of driver's license and they send you a check.
Odd. Seems it would be a lot cheaper just to mail you a fresh bottle even if they still wanted old back and license and receipt etc.
They LOSE money this way. If they mail you a second one...they still make money form the sale to original place they sold it to.

It won't work for as fast of leaks as they claim but it does work.
 

Frank Wilson

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My '12 Navigator L cost me like 12.5k... lower miles, no check engine

I've seen 08 or 09 for $8 something

2007 El Limited ,
90k miles,
showroom floor grade interior ,
dealer maintain from day one
Upgraded plugs
Transmission fluid flushes
4x4
Remote start
3/2 lift
New raptor rims and brand new bfg 35s
And best of all......driveshafts were the only things with rust.

Paid 17,500 and 800 to ship it from the midwest. (Just under 3 years ago )

I got a killer deal .

8,000$ in the northeast for a 3rd gen el limited is going to have serious issues seen and not. I looked sub-13k for 6 months, in the northeast. Saw some serious nightmares.

Again market could be different now, but , 17,500 for it when all factors are added up, was a good deal.

At least to me.
 

GaryH2

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Good some things addressed by my local garage this week. The vibration issue was due to tires/balance issue so I had them all rotated, weighted and load balanced it instead of just the crappy Firestone wheel balance....huge difference. Then got new rotors, scuffed the pads (they were still meaty), and then rebuilt both calipers (was pulling to left back on heavy braking) and new brake lines. All should be well now.

If you still have brake issues replace the front flex brake lines. Mine was a mess until those were replaced and its 1000% percent better just from that inexpensive repair.
 
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Ben Ford

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A little update since I have last posted...

I had a leak in the A/C that I found rather quickly. The condenser was leaking at the tube/tank joint on passenger side as noted by the amount of gunk buildup. I replaced it and the A/C was working amazing!! For two days[emoji19][emoji19]...

The A/C just stopped working. No cold air. Good air flow. Nothing.... I did have a code pop for low pressure. Thought it was the pressure switch and replaced it. Then I tested the compressor by applying power directly to it and the clutch didn’t engage. So, of course I replaced it and the A/C works beautifully now!!!

I don’t drive it much as it’s the wife’s vehicle but she was complaining about the ride quality. So I took it to and from work while diagnosing the A/C issues. Well, with the windows down I could hear a hellacious squeaking and could feel the front end floating whenever I went over some bumps. I knew right away that the struts needed to be replaced. Then I checked for looseness in the front end and wow!!! Everything was toast!!!! I have since replaced Borge front struts, upper and lower control arms, and the outer tie rod ends!!![emoji15][emoji15][emoji15] my wife loves driving it now because she says it drives like a new vehicle. And it better cause of how much money and blood and sweat I put into that front end!![emoji35][emoji35]

Now that the clock has just reached 200k I bought everything I need to replace the timing chain, guides, tensioner, and cam phasers. Not to mention the recommended upgraded oil pump... $1200 for everything!!!! I am now way past the value of the expo. I am now vested in keeping the damn thing....

More to follow on those repairs when I get to it...


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Ben Ford

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Oh and forgot one other thing[emoji58]

The steering was binding at certain points. Well, it felt like binding or that the power steering pump was quitting intermittently.

Couldn’t really pin point the issue. It fooled me into thinking that the pump was failing. So after I had finally fixed the A/C this was happening and I replaced the power steering pump. NOPE!!! It was the steering shaft from the firewall to the power steering rack. It would “bind” at certain points. Because the U-Joints were failing. As a temporary fix I read someone putting penetrating oil at the joints and solving the issue until they replaced the shaft.

Bought the shaft and haven’t replaced it yet. But no binding since I sprayed a couple months ago. More like soaked overnight then sprayed again the following day.


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member11

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Sorry to hear about your issues. I have an '07 and am always surprised to see posts calling these "low maintenance" cars. Mine is in good condition at 200k but has in no way been cheap to maintain or repair.

Can you please post a link to these headlights?
 
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Ben Ford

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Well, sadly I have some updates....

Last week I was traveling to South Carolina from Louisiana and as I was traveling through Mississippi I had a misfire. #2 coil bad. So I bought all 8 and changed them at an Autozone. Only cost me $250ish[emoji15][emoji51]

Same trip ABS light came on and the traction control warning stayed lit on the dash. Left rear wheel sensor bad... [emoji19] and not to mention the change like warning came on[emoji2359]

So, after getting back I decided to move forward with some of the repairs that it needed the wheel sensor being one of them.

The air suspension has been working subpar so I thought I’d get a jump on it before it completely failed. I had ordered a new pump and air springs from 1aauto. I started by replacing the pump and wow!! What a difference!![emoji16]

Then, the following morning it wouldn’t operate[emoji2955][emoji848][emoji2962]

After performing all sorts of tests I was puzzled.... [emoji848] I could apply power to the pump directly and it would work. And then I could apply power across the 3 & 5 pin for the relay and it would work with the key in the ON position. But, other than that nothing.

It wasn’t until I started to do some electrical tests at the air sring solenoids and unplugging them, that after I plugged one of them back up the air suspension pump would start up with the key in the in position for 30 seconds and then shut off.... [emoji2955]

So, I decided to moved forward with replacing the air springs because I was still puzzled.

Well, I am operating at limited tools because I just moved and my stuff is in storage and I’m using my dads garage and supplementing what tools I brought with me with his. Needless to say I didn’t have the right size sockets to move forward with that.

But, what I did do is before plugging both air springs solenoids back in I put dielectric grease on both plugs cause they were a real SOB to unplug. Put the tires back on and let the sucker down and turned the key to in and voila!!! The pump started and aired the suspension up to proper height!![emoji2962][emoji2962]

It occurred to me the that previous owner who was a freaking idiot[emoji35][emoji35], took the damn Expo on the beach has caused corrosion on the connections. And after disconnecting them and putting the grease on the connections it is making good contact again[emoji3060][emoji3060]!! No wonder I couldn’t find the problem!!!

Now for fixing the dreaded passenger exhaust leak, lower control arms, and timing chain kit.[emoji19] yaaay[emoji19][emoji19][emoji19]


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07navi

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A little update since I have last posted...

I had a leak in the A/C that I found rather quickly. The condenser was leaking at the tube/tank joint on passenger side as noted by the amount of gunk buildup. I replaced it and the A/C was working amazing!! For two days[emoji19][emoji19]...

The A/C just stopped working. No cold air. Good air flow. Nothing.... I did have a code pop for low pressure. Thought it was the pressure switch and replaced it. Then I tested the compressor by applying power directly to it and the clutch didn’t engage. So, of course I replaced it and the A/C works beautifully now!!!

I don’t drive it much as it’s the wife’s vehicle but she was complaining about the ride quality. So I took it to and from work while diagnosing the A/C issues. Well, with the windows down I could hear a hellacious squeaking and could feel the front end floating whenever I went over some bumps. I knew right away that the struts needed to be replaced. Then I checked for looseness in the front end and wow!!! Everything was toast!!!! I have since replaced Borge front struts, upper and lower control arms, and the outer tie rod ends!!![emoji15][emoji15][emoji15] my wife loves driving it now because she says it drives like a new vehicle. And it better cause of how much money and blood and sweat I put into that front end!![emoji35][emoji35]

Now that the clock has just reached 200k I bought everything I need to replace the timing chain, guides, tensioner, and cam phasers. Not to mention the recommended upgraded oil pump... $1200 for everything!!!! I am now way past the value of the expo. I am now vested in keeping the damn thing....

More to follow on those repairs when I get to it...


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$1200 just for the chain and phaser parts? Are they OEM? Also, did you bring an obd II scanner? Why didn't you just replace that one coil? My stock coils work fine on my Ex at 200k.
 
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