Driver door rattle

[jking05]

Anyone else have a rattle when going over bumps around the top of the driver door? Im not sure where its coming from but its really annoying. Almost seems like it is right above where the seatbelt goes in. Tried holding down that piece but it still happens.

 

[AAOO]

Mine does on the passenger side. It's the window glass on mine. I had my wife push on it while i was driving and it goes away. If i roll it down a tad it also goes away. It's on my list of things to get fixed next service appointment. The rattle was much worse in colder weather.

 

[scottdm]

I also have a "tick tick" sound that is intermittent on rough pavement. The dealer ordered a new weatherstrip to see if that takes care of it. I think the door moves with respect to the body on rough roads.

 

[aggiegrad05]

Anyone else have a rattle when going over bumps around the top of the driver door? Im not sure where its coming from but its really annoying. Almost seems like it is right above where the seatbelt goes in. Tried holding down that piece but it still happens.

Several other users have had a door rattle in their Ltds. Altho it sounds like maybe it's not from the same place as yours. This fix has made the rounds and seems to do the trick if it is the same.

https://www.expeditionforum.com/thr...18-change-wish-list.34582/page-13#post-308489

 

[jking05]

Yeah I have that one also. Anytime you open the door and press on the handle it squeaks really bad like a cheap old ford taurus. Im due for the first oil change coming up so Im going to see if they can look into it.

 

[Bow512]

Mine had a rattle coming from the weather stripping on the top of the drivers door. I adjusted the striker in slightly and it solved the problem. My door always seemed to stick out a bit on the handle side anyways so that aligned it and fixed the rattle too.

 

[scottdm]

Mine had a rattle coming from the weather stripping on the top of the drivers door. I adjusted the striker in slightly and it solved the problem. My door always seemed to stick out a bit on the handle side anyways so that aligned it and fixed the rattle too.

How did you adjust the striker? The striker has conical seats on the holes that re-center the striker when you tighten the bolts, so even if you try to slide the striker after loosening the bolts, the conical seats on the striker pull it back to the original spot when you tighten down the bolts.

 

[Bow512]

How did you adjust the striker? The striker has conical seats on the holes that re-center the striker when you tighten the bolts, so even if you try to slide the striker after loosening the bolts, the conical seats on the striker pull it back to the original spot when you tighten down the bolts.

If you loosen the bolts and hit the striker with a rubber mallet it will move. (The striker and the mounting holes/bolts move as 1 piece) Just don’t hit too hard and move it in too much because it’s a pita to get it adjusted back out! I didn’t think it would adjust either, but sure enough it will. It was quite easy to adjust once I realized it does move.

Just mark your starting point with some blue tape. It doesn't take much adjustment to make a difference.

 

[scottdm]

If you loosen the bolts and hit the striker with a rubber mallet it will move. (The striker and the mounting holes/bolts move as 1 piece) Just don’t hit too hard and move it in too much because it’s a pita to get it adjusted back out! I didn’t think it would adjust either, but sure enough it will. It was quite easy to adjust once I realized it does move.

Just mark your starting point with some blue tape. It doesn't take much adjustment to make a difference.

Thanks for the rubber mallet tip. I loosened the bolts slightly and was able to move the striker with the rubber mallet before tightening down. The painters tape worked well to confirm that it stayed in the new position after tightening the bolts. It seems to have helped with my wind noise on the drivers door. Now I need to adjust the rear door on the drivers side since the rear door now sticks out slightly further than the front door. I'm sure a 10# sledge will do the trick after I loosen the bolts on the rear door hinges

 

[BLAMB]

I also have a "tick tick" sound that is intermittent on rough pavement. The dealer ordered a new weatherstrip to see if that takes care of it. I think the door moves with respect to the body on rough roads.

Hi Scott. I'm new to the forum and also have the "tick" coming from the drive door hinge area. Did Ford ever figure out the source?

 

[Garrett]

Mine was the triangle plastic cover thingy (where a tweeter would go). It would “click” against the weather stripping.

 

[scottdm]

Hi Scott. I'm new to the forum and also have the "tick" coming from the drive door hinge area. Did Ford ever figure out the source?

The dealer really wasn't helpful since they aren't willing to keep the vehicle for an extended period to troubleshoot, etc. I have used a combination of felt and card stock between various surfaces and have improved things to the point that I don't notice the noises in the door anymore.

 

[Greg_Emerick]

Scottdm,
I have the same problem. I am convinced it is coming from flexing of the plastic exterior trim which runs along the rear vertical edge of the drivers side front door. Which direction did you move the striker? How did you determine the target direction to move it (up vs. down, left vs. right)?

thanks,
Greg

 

[scottdm]

Scottdm,
I have the same problem. I am convinced it is coming from flexing of the plastic exterior trim which runs along the rear vertical edge of the drivers side front door. Which direction did you move the striker? How did you determine the target direction to move it (up vs. down, left vs. right)?

thanks,
Greg

Unless you are planning to adjust the door hinges as well, the striker would only be moved in slightly to tighten up the seals, etc. This involves a bit of trial and error. If you move it in too much, the rear door will stick out further than the front door and you'll need to adjust the hinges on the rear door to align everything again. I also ended up using some black rubber tubing in the bulb seals around the door to snug things up further.

 

[BLAMB]

Update: Mine spent 3 weeks between the dealer and their body shop. They used a listening tool to isolate the noise somewhere in the fender. The body shop pulled the fender (without destroying it thankfully) and found 4 loose sheet metal screws on the radiator support beam/bracket that caused flexing during suspension articulation. Everything was tightened to spec and put back together. The ticking noise is now gone.