Power window motor replacement

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Shantheman73

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Just had my driver’s side power window go kaput. The motors aren’t that expensive...but on a scale of 1-10, how difficult are they to replace yourself?


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sjwelds

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Very often not the motor at all, but rather the window regulator.

Not really that bad a job. Did the pass side on my 08.

Driver's side, you may lose the auto up/down feature from what I've read....

Some videos on YouTube iirc.
 
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Shantheman73

Shantheman73

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Very often not the motor at all, but rather the window regulator.

Not really that bad a job. Did the pass side on my 08.

Driver's side, you may lose the auto up/down feature from what I've read....

Some videos on YouTube iirc.

I bought the regulator tonite...guy at parts store said same thing. I’m going to take a stab at it tomorrow.
Thanks for input! I’m sure a few have done this job on the forum here, so i figured I’d ask for their experiences.


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07navi

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I did mine too on the '07 pass side. Normally the cable in the regulator gives out and gets frayed. The regulator cost me $45 with free shipping and it was a one day job with following you-tube vids as I went. Let us know if it doesn't act right afterwards and I will show you how to program it. A little silicone spray in the channels will help also. Make sure you secure the window well in the up position and bring the arm with the 2 clamps on it up to the bottom of it before releasing it.
 
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Gary Waugh

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As stated, it's usually the cable that breaks not the motor, so you either replace the cable (have to make your own) or buy a complete regulator mechanism. It is very easy to get the old regulator out and fit a new one.. It was also easy to replace the cable if you have spare cable.
I lower the glass about mid way and then remove the interior door panel, then lift the glass up and out of the window (there are 2 clamps that hold the glass to the regulator that need to be loosened (at bottom of glass) before you lift out the window), then I remove the bolts mounting the regulator to the door frame (i think there are 4 bolts, but it was 2 years ago so I could be wrong) and disconnect the electrical multi connector that connects to the window motor, and I recall I had to disconnect the door locking mechanism (doesn't have to be removed but I had to remove the 3 bolts that secured the mechanism to the door frame). Then the old regulator will just lift out. Fitting is the complete reverse, but don't tighten the clamps on the bottom of the window until you have had the mechanism completely close the window (to allow things to move a little and settle. Once the window is fully closed, then tighten the 2 clamps on the bottom of the glass to secure the glass i place). If you are a reasonable mechanic, count on a good 2 hours to do it the first time. The second time (passenger window) took me about 30 minutes as I knew what to do!!
Hope that helps a bit.
 
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07navi

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It took me 3-4 hours but that was with going in and out of the house to watch the u-tube videos, Getting the new one in that small hole was the trickiest part. Anybody that can do it in 30 minutes is either high on speed or lying..............or both.
 
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Shantheman73

Shantheman73

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As stated, it's usually the cable that breaks not the motor, so you either replace the cable (have to make your own) or buy a complete regulator mechanism. It is very easy to get the old regulator out and fit a new one.. It was also easy to replace the cable if you have spare cable.
I lower the glass about mid way and then remove the interior door panel, then lift the glass up and out of the window (there are 2 clamps that hold the glass to the regulator that need to be loosened (at bottom of glass) before you lift out the window), then I remove the bolts mounting the regulator to the door frame (i think there are 4 bolts, but it was 2 years ago so I could be wrong) and disconnect the electrical multi connector that connects to the window motor, and I recall I had to disconnect the door locking mechanism (doesn't have to be removed but I had to remove the 3 bolts that secured the mechanism to the door frame). Then the old regulator will just lift out. Fitting is the complete reverse, but don't tighten the clamps on the bottom of the window until you have had the mechanism completely close the window (to allow things to move a little and settle. Once the window is fully closed, then tighten the 2 clamps on the bottom of the glass to secure the glass i place). If you are a reasonable mechanic, count on a good 2 hours to do it the first time. The second time (passenger window) took me about 30 minutes as I knew what to do!!
Hope that helps a bit.

Thank you! I did the window clamping as you said. The whole thing took roughly hour and half. Wasn’t as bad as I expected! Works like new now. IMG_3365.jpg
IMG_3364.jpg


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Hello from Iceland, my first post here on this forum :)
I need to replace the window regulator on my 2015 XLT Expy.

Annoying how often the wires brake in this unit.

Now, Rock-Auto gives a few options for the 2015 - some said to be specifically for a Bosch motor - white housing.

Does anyone of you know whether they are all for Bosch, or whether there is a difference between model years, or models?

I can of course open it up and check, just wanted to see whether I could save me opening it up until I get the part.

thank you,
Daddi Bjarnason
 

07navi

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Hello from Iceland, my first post here on this forum :)
I need to replace the window regulator on my 2015 XLT Expy.

Annoying how often the wires brake in this unit.

Now, Rock-Auto gives a few options for the 2015 - some said to be specifically for a Bosch motor - white housing.

Does anyone of you know whether they are all for Bosch, or whether there is a difference between model years, or models?

I can of course open it up and check, just wanted to see whether I could save me opening it up until I get the part.

thank you,
Daddi Bjarnason
Nah, just order one on ebay and how do do know the cable didn't break?
 
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Shantheman73

Shantheman73

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Hello from Iceland, my first post here on this forum :)
I need to replace the window regulator on my 2015 XLT Expy.

Annoying how often the wires brake in this unit.

Now, Rock-Auto gives a few options for the 2015 - some said to be specifically for a Bosch motor - white housing.

Does anyone of you know whether they are all for Bosch, or whether there is a difference between model years, or models?

I can of course open it up and check, just wanted to see whether I could save me opening it up until I get the part.

thank you,
Daddi Bjarnason

I believe the ‘white Bosch’ motor is what came stock. I was also concerned about this... but it was what was in there when I changed my regulator.


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Keepinitoldskool

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I just opened mine up to replace the speakers. I haven't seen an oem speaker this ****** since the 80s. It's an inverted magnet design and it weighs as much as a roll of toilet paper. I think they brought in the audio guys in on the last week of the design phase. Couldn't make my cheap infinitys fit, speaker mount cannot be cut up because the regulator track is mounted to it, can't make an adapter ring because still not enough depth... had to put it back such a huge door and this is all they could come up with
 

07navi

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I just opened mine up to replace the speakers. I haven't seen an oem speaker this ****** since the 80s. It's an inverted magnet design and it weighs as much as a roll of toilet paper. I think they brought in the audio guys in on the last week of the design phase. Couldn't make my cheap infinitys fit, speaker mount cannot be cut up because the regulator track is mounted to it, can't make an adapter ring because still not enough depth... had to put it back such a huge door and this is all they could come up with
But my radio was 2k extra.:shrug:
 

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