My 5.4L saga ...

[MrBlargMan]

I would replace your PCV valve (valve cover) and have somebody drain your cooling system and refill it with an AIRLIFT. Excessive crankcase pressures will always cause oil leaks and it also sounds like you could possibly have an air pocket hanging out in your cooling system. The AIRLIFT pulls a vacuum on the cooling system and then your engine coolant is sucked in eliminating possibilities of a stubborn air pocket. None of your described symptoms scream head gasket to me.

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

Tstat replaced and temp issues persist. It runs steady (195-197F) for the most part until the engine starts to work (stop-and-go traffic, low speed, ~1,500-2,000 rpm rawl up a gravel road, etc.). At that point the temps begin to climb, sometimes all the way until the fan kicks on (213-215F). It has never gone beyond that and never overheated. This is all new behavior since the intake gaskets were done. Prior to that the truck would run 195-197F all day, every day even on the slow speed climbs. Traffic would run her up to maybe 203F. I never went higher than 213F in 6 years of ownership and even that was only when idling or stuck in traffic on a 90F summer day. While bleeding the air from the system I did learn that my heat still works incredibly well. That's good news if she's still running by winter.

The excess pressure issue remains also of course and I'm having a heck of a time finding a mechanic that is willing to troubleshoot it. No idea if these 2 issues are related or whether the temp issue was caused by something done by the mechanic that did the intake gaskets. I avoid the dealers because all they do is throw parts at a problem and now the independents are going down the same road. :/

 

[ExplorerTom]

Sell it?

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

Sell it?

That's not off the table. I'd rather get her fixed, but I was at this for 2.5 months before I ever posted this thread. I've noted all the suggestions above, but my competency level on auto repair is largely limited to routine maintenance so I am at the mercy of the pros - all of which thus far have zero interest in diagnosing anything.

 

[jkayca]

Did you try replacing the PVC valve as was suggested? If you replaced the tstat on your own I think you have the skills to do the PVC.

How to change PCV valve 2012 Exp - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

2007 - 2014 Expedition & Navigator - How to change PCV valve 2012 Exp - Anyone know where it is- how to change it and where to buy it My 2012 5.4 is using a little more oil then it should at 53000 and I heard it could be the PCV thanks Ps Scott

www.ford-trucks.com

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

Did you try replacing the PVC valve as was suggested? If you replaced the tstat on your own I think you have the skills to do the PVC.

How to change PCV valve 2012 Exp - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

2007 - 2014 Expedition & Navigator - How to change PCV valve 2012 Exp - Anyone know where it is- how to change it and where to buy it My 2012 5.4 is using a little more oil then it should at 53000 and I heard it could be the PCV thanks Ps Scott

www.ford-trucks.com

Not yet, but that's at the top of my list. Checking the crankcase vent hose is second.

 

[Brons2]

Jasper pretty much has a terrible reputation, if you do decide the engine replacement route, I would not choose them. Ford reman or Powertrain Products is recommended by the famous Ford YouTube mechanic.

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

Jasper pretty much has a terrible reputation, if you do decide the engine replacement route, I would not choose them. Ford reman or Powertrain Products is recommended by the famous Ford YouTube mechanic.

Everyone seems to have pretty mixed reviews about all of them. All of my local shops exclusively use Jasper so that's the only reason I was even looking at them. I actually requested a quote from Powertrain the other day though since Brian (FordTechMakuloco) recommends them. I would just need to find a shop willing to do it if I ended up going down that road.

I work FT, have a small business, work extensively in animal rescue, take care of my elderly parents ... Anyway, it's hard to find time for this stuff and yet I need it running. I should have bought a 3rd vehicle years ago, so stuff like this isn't so crippling. Kicking myself for not doing it now.

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

Some minor updates ....

Since draining the radiator and replacing the tstat, the mysteriously rising and falling coolant level issue has not returned. Perhaps there was indeed a stubborn air pocket somewhere in the system before.

Regarding temps, they are more steady and peak about 2F lower with the Stant SuperStat vs the Motorad that I pulled out. However, the truck continues to run hot in traffic and when the engine is under additional load (e.g. climbing a hill). Still no overheating.

My Blackstone coolant report came back and supports my findings on the combustion leak test. No hyrdrocarbons detected in the coolant at all. The oil got temporarily lost by USPS and arrived a day after the coolant, so I am still awaiting results on that.



Additional comment from Blackstone Senior Analyst:

No hydrocarbons (oil/fuel) showed up in
this sample -- when that sort of contaminant is
present we'll run a spectral exam to show what
was present in the oil/fuel. There was no such
contaminant to analyze with the spectrometer,
hence the reason for no data being included in that portion of the report.

 

[Trainmaster]

Sounds like your lucky day! I'm happy for you.

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

Sounds like your lucky day! I'm happy for you.

I still have to find out what is causing it to run hot and what is causing the excess pressure.

 

[Hamfisted]

Maybe next oil change run some engine flush through it beforehand? Did you ever check the PVC system ?
How's the radiator ? If it's not cooling, it's not cooling ....

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

Maybe next oil change run some engine flush through it beforehand? Did you ever check the PVC system ?
How's the radiator ? If it's not cooling, it's not cooling ....

PVC on my list along with crankshaft vent.

Radiator seems ok. No leaks. Holds pressure. The truck will run fine when I'm cruising along, but as soon as the engine starts to work a little (in traffic, climbing a long hill, etc.) the temp gauge climbs. If the engine keeps working for a couple minutes, the temp climbs until the fan kicks on. Then it starts to slowly drop back down. I towed about 1,200 lbs the other day and the problem didn't get any worse (though 1,200 lbs is barely even noticeable for this truck).

I still don't know if this is at all related to the pressure issue or if the careless mechanic did something. This temp problem started immediately after he did the intake gaskets. I just can't imagine what he could have done to cause this though, so maybe it's a genuine coincidence.

 

[jimz]

If ******** got the thermostat wrong why trust that he got the gasket right? Could a wrong gasket give your same problems?

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

If ******** got the thermostat wrong why trust that he got the gasket right? Could a wrong gasket give your same problems?

I don't know. The guy is lazy AF so who knows what he did.

 

[Trainmaster]

I know this sounds like a lot of work, but you may have to pull that manifold off again to see what's going on under there. Is there a coolant tube under there somewhere as in the first generation trucks? Maybe something's dented, crimped or kinked in or around where that job was done?

 

[jimz]

It could be something simple. Maybe! My motor was cutting out on acceleration. So many things to cause the problem but a few turns of a screwdriver to tighten the intake clamps from air cleaner to manifold and now the sensors sense and the motor runs smooth. The oil change with a new air filter caused months of bad running motor. One minute and a screwdriver fixed what could have been hundreds of dollars if I had put it back in the shop.

Good luck finding your "something simple". And I do hope it is simple.