I’m also interested in getting the part number. I don’t know anything to big about spark plugs but would like to try to change mine for the first time.
I have 46,000kms and still on the original plugs.
Ways to add MPG in a $$$ Gas Price Economy!
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I have 46,000kms and still on the original plugs.
As others have said, speed and air resistance is a big deal and proper tire inflation. For most people, the simple change of doing 65 vs 80 on a 20 mile commute can be more than $7-10/week in fuel savings or more. And the cost is essentially 1 extra song on the radio as you drive in.
Alwaysthinkin
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Couldn't agree more, we should be allowed to make our own choice regarding legal speed of choice vs better gas mileage.
duneslider
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So why a smaller gap? I know that FI usually benefits from a smaller gap but is the opinion such that the factory gap is not a gap optimized for FI and is actually larger than it should be for the application?Here you go...This company will pregap them lower too if you want it. For a cost of course!
Set of 6 NGK LTR7BHX (95605) Spark Plug | ZFG RACING LLC
NGK Ruthenium HX is designed for newer engines which demand high ignitability. Projected Square Platinum Electrode (PSPE) design promotes spark energy concentration and ignites a wider range of air-fuel ratios, offering improved performance in rich or lean engine conditions. 0.4mm Ruthenium...www.tunedbyzfgracing.com
Yes, they will help even stock. You will notice a smoother idle, and should see a MPG increase.
My experience with messing with plugs is mostly with 2 stokes, going colder would seem good at first but they would tend to foul especially when the temps were down. I know that FI is a different animal but just curious and trying to learn a little here.
Posted 3 minutes before you asked...
Ways to add MPG in a $$$ Gas Price Economy!
I’ll give it a try. Think there would be any benefit to switching to these NGK’s when the ones from the factory are not worn out? I just bought some. Gunna throw them in when they show up. My rig only has 13k so we’ll see what they do.
www.expeditionforum.com
These motors run hot. Even in cold weather, intake temps are warm. The factory plugs breakdown because of the heat, and they aren't made of the best materials. Ford used to put excellent plugs in the 3.5's. To the point that one of the recommended plugs when tuning was the older plugs. You used to be able to find them, as a Ford Performance Part#, and they were designed for the Ford GT if you looked up the number. Those are now really hard to find. Then many hit on these NGK's, and come recommended from several tuners even for Stock applications because of the crappy stock plugs. If stock I would not go any lower than 0.028. If you are stock, and plan to stay that way, and don't run hard, or tow a lot, do 0.031(Factory). If you are tuned, plan to tune, or run it hard, start at 0.028. If you are already tuned, talk to your tuner, and go with their recommendation.
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DWs-TTEB
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DWs-TTEB
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Post todays 52 mile round trip commute, my AVG MPG is 20.6. Up 3.4 MPG running my fancy wheel setup of 17.2 AVG MPG.
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VBreithaupt
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I been getting solid 20 mpg on 2 hour highway drive going up north in Michigan with just me and with it full of people!
My suggestion
Run Amsoil synthetic oil
Put tires at 2-3 degrees higher of air pressure
Run no higher then 77 miles per hour
Have the cruise set as much as possible
Travel at off time when there is least amount of traffic
Keep car clean and waxed
Wind direction plays a factor as well
In town mpg good luck
With camper there is a sucking sound that is very faintly heard
My suggestion
Run Amsoil synthetic oil
Put tires at 2-3 degrees higher of air pressure
Run no higher then 77 miles per hour
Have the cruise set as much as possible
Travel at off time when there is least amount of traffic
Keep car clean and waxed
Wind direction plays a factor as well
In town mpg good luck
With camper there is a sucking sound that is very faintly heard
sjwhiteley
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Personally, I’d run without cruise - depending on traffic conditions. I got better mileage without it on my daily commute. With light traffic and slight hills, allowing the vehicle to slow down on the incline prevented an increase in immediate consumption.
I also found a crosswind more detrimental than a headwind. That may be because of other factors, however, so cannot confirm or verify is objectively.
As an aside with regards to speed (slowing down) you really start moving to a reducto-absurdium argument: if 55 is better, why not 45? Or 35? Or walking? Would that same argument conversely apply to an aerodynamic electric vehicle driving faster? If you can drive 100mph and only consume an additional 20% kWh, and get that from solar panels, energy consumption is irellavant? Getting there faster means fewer cars on the road.
ROBERT BONNER
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As an aside, on average only 2% of the power going into those batteries comes from panels in the US (the solar leader in the world)....unless it's charged at night...then, it's almost zero....The facts are that wind and solar power combined is just 5% of grid output away from being a myth and virtually not a factor during night time charging. In Terawatts the small amount of Russian oil that we imported in 2021 was greater than the energy output of all panels and propellers in the US combined (434 Twh vs. 410 Twh). Just saying.
Not exactly... If the topic is improving miles per gallon, there are curves that identify how to maximize the miles per gallon, distance, and the speed at which to achieve it. Walking doesn't improve miles per gallon, although it would be better for your pocket as walking is typically free.
Using your RAA logic, if you did 1mph your gas mileage (mpg) would be lower than doing 55mph. The reason is a combination of engine idol gas usage, drivetrain gearing, and time. Conversely doing 120 mph, you now have swapped variables to engine power needed to maintain the speed with air resistance, that power needs to burn more fuel. You burn dramatically more fuel over the same distance, at a faster rate. This all assumes no cars on the road.
sjwhiteley
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Oh, don't get me wrong..I agree.
However, there are a lot more variables involved, and depending on the objective. Obviously, the situation is: I have this big thirsty vehicle, how do I limit gas usage, or more specifically - put the cost of operating it back in the region of where I'm comfortable? People do start doing irrational (for the most part) things like purchasing a new, more economical, car when gas prices rise, as the sole reason. I think a worse solution is that people do slow down (hypermilers!) to the point that it becomes very annoying to other road users, at best, and often a danger.
Fully agree!
Pawpaw
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What's helping me out is the Drive Safe and Save monitor from State Farm in my vehicle. It judges you on acceleration..braking..speed and even talking on the phone. Savings were almost $200 for 6 months on my premium and I'm sure its saving me money at the pump. Retired so I'm not in a big hurry so I usually run at posted speed limits or adjust for weather or traffic conditions. I've always kept my vehicles in top condition but the biggest savings can be your right foot and common sense. My previous vehicle was a '17 F350 Lariat dually that I daily drove for 4-1/2 yrs. Got 16 mpg around town and 17 hwy. 9 to 10 mpg towing the 41' 5th wheel we had until Hurricane Ida totaled it. Glad I don't have to buy diesel anymore!!
Pawpaw
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My Expedition handles like a sports car compared to this rig! Gross weight of right under 26K pounds.
bill_b
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Man, the color coordination looks fantastic on that setup!
Pawpaw
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Thanks..the truck was White Gold when I bought it and added the Caribou lower trim when we bought the camper. Wifes idea and she nailed it. When the camper was totaled in 150+ hurricane winds I sold the truck for what I paid for it 4-/2 yrs prior. Went looking for a F150 and that was almost impossible so we ended up with the FX4 Expedition they had on the lot. They came off the sticker a good bit so all I had to do was come up with a few grand for taxes. No note is nice! When we get our house finished from storm repairs we may end up with a travel trailer in the 7K pound range. Expedition has the max tow and rated for 9,200 lbs but I want to keep it 2K pounds under. We had a '15 Keystone Fuzion toyhauler for over 3 yrs before the Grand Design Solitude that had way more living area. Still sick about losing it in the storm.
Pawpaw
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Truck when it was White Gold only. '15 Fuzion toyhauler we had. Glad I'm not having to buy diesel with the crazy prices posted now. Got 9 to 10 mpg towing depending on conditions and truck had a 48 gallon tank.
Thanks. Napa auto parts’ website insists this won’t fit the expedition so I’ll ask a mechanic here before trying the install. I e never done spark plugs before.
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