Ways to add MPG in a $$$ Gas Price Economy!

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sjwhiteley

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Based on my own experiences, ‘street’ tires, correctly inflated and running in ECO mode; plus crawling away from stops (the more you annoy people behind you, the better your economy - I.e. you won’t be in the left lane much!). Drive slower (can’t believe I’m saying that).

Lastly, drive a cheaper, more economical car. It’ll take you a decade or more to justify it, but hey, saving the planet, right? Right!? (This part is facetious, of course, but there are some people out there that seriously see this as the only option).
 

Emilner

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It tightens up the handling & It rides smoother in 4A. Get the same MPGs as 2WD in 4A.
I have the exact opposite experience. In 4a the truck is not as smooth especially on tight turns and my mileage drops. In 4a mode you are engaging the front hubs, axles, diff and driveshaft which will certainly take more fuel to accomplish. The only difference over 4wd is the transfer case front clutches are not engaged unless the system detects wheel slippage.
 

lv2drive

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I have the exact opposite experience. In 4a the truck is not as smooth especially on tight turns and my mileage drops. In 4a mode you are engaging the front hubs, axles, diff and driveshaft which will certainly take more fuel to accomplish. The only difference over 4wd is the transfer case front clutches are not engaged unless the system detects wheel slippage.
apologies for the long post...

one would certainly assume that the front axel spinning would consume more gas - as i also initially assumed. but, to my surprise, in real world conditions, i’ve had zero noticeable difference in mpg, over the past 2 years / 20k miles, when comparing 4A normal to 2A normal, same gas station - same routes.

steering wheel heaviness, response, & accuracy significantly improves with 4A, most noticeable on straight highway tracking & sharp corners with the tighter, heavier, more stable wheel...

with all this power, the 4A traction is by far superior, for heavy acceleration from stop, & accelerating out of a steep corner, & i would rather have 4A re-distribute power instantly instead of the slip control applying the brakes to a single wheel. maybe it’s because i learned how to drive on quattro... but the difference is so noticeable for me, i honestly can’t run the vehicle in 2A anymore - at least for my driving style & local roads.

engaging sport mode puts it in 4A automatically. surely there’s a reason for that ... ? i don’t run in sport because i prefer the normal shift points, but i did steal the idea of running in 4A from testing sport mode... i don’t run eco because i’d rather do my own eco mode by going light on the throttle & have full power instantly if i need it for any reason. currently averaging 20-22 on highway trips in 4A normal with my Rotiiva AT plus E’s, with ultra-low rolling resistance / lightweight sidewalls. i feel like it’s the best balance for MPG & driveability / safety for me in all weather conditions.

for any small payload trips, if i commute, or just want better mpg’s, i just downsize & take the diesel touareg @ 30mpg.
 

Fastcar

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+1 on the NGK plugs! - did mine at 53k, my MPG avg bumped up from 17 to 19 combined. running E rated ultralight Nokian Rotiiva ATplus, 93oct, drivetrain in 4A normal 24/7.
Wondering if the jump in gas mileage was due to the original plugs being pretty well used up and replaced with new plugs was the cause of the increase and not due to the brand.
 

lv2drive

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Wondering if the jump in gas mileage was due to the original plugs being pretty well used up and replaced with new plugs was the cause of the increase and not due to the brand.
probably a little of both if i had to guess / i’m confident the ngk’s are an improvement over oem
 
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DWs-TTEB

DWs-TTEB

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one would certainly assume that the front axel spinning would consume more gas - as i also initially assumed. but, to my surprise, in real world conditions, i’ve had zero noticeable difference in mpg, over the past 2 years / 20k miles, when comparing 4A normal to 2A normal, same gas station - same routes.

steering wheel heaviness, response, & accuracy significantly improves with 4A, most noticeable on straight highway tracking & sharp corners with the tighter, heavier, more stable wheel...

with all this power, the 4A traction is by far superior, for heavy acceleration from stop, & accelerating out of a steep corner, & i would rather have 4A re-distribute power instantly instead of the slip control applying the brakes to a single wheel. maybe it’s because i learned how to drive on quattro... but the difference is so noticeable for me, i honestly can’t run the vehicle in 2A anymore - at least for my driving style & local roads.

engaging sport mode puts it in 4A automatically. surely there’s a reason for that ... ? i don’t run in sport because i prefer the normal shift points, but i did steal the idea of running in 4A from testing sport mode... i don’t run eco because i’d rather do my own eco mode by going light on the throttle & have full power instantly if i need it for any reason. currently averaging 20-22 on highway trips in 4A normal with my Rotiiva AT plus E’s, with ultra-low rolling resistance / lightweight sidewalls. i feel like it’s the best balance for MPG & driveability / safety for me in all weather conditions.

for any small payload trips, if i commute, or just want better mpg’s, i just downsize & take the diesel touareg @ 30mpg.
I could not agree more with you here @lv2drive well said/typed.
 

KFordEx8

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It tightens up the handling & It rides smoother in 4A. Get the same MPGs as 2WD in 4A.
I’ll give it a try.

probably a little of both if i had to guess / i’m confident the ngk’s are an improvement over oem

Think there would be any benefit to switching to these NGK’s when the ones from the factory are not worn out?
 
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