Shop told me they won’t change plugs /tune up on my 99 Triton 5.4

[Anthony O]

Hi, I bought my 1999 expedition from my brother and last few days it’s running rough. Brother in law told me he never changed the plugs or tuned the truck while he owned it. The truck was garage kept and only used sparingly on weekends because my brother in law had a company truck. So it only had 80k when I got it now it’s at 87k. I called a local mechanic to get a price on a tune up and he told me to take the truck to Ford that he wouldn’t work on it because he has cracked plugs trying to get them out on my model truck. I surely don’t want to take the truck to Ford. What’s the back story to these plugs , difficult to take out I guess‍. Not sure if I just try another local or shop and see if they will take it. That is I am assuming that I need a tuneup is causing the issue.
Please advise. I will search the internet in the interim
Thanks all

 

[Fastcar]

I believe those plugs can be a real pia to remove. Ford has a tool to help get them out.

 

[Hamfisted]

Find another mechanic, or do them yourself. They are not crack prone. If they've never been replaced before, you can spray a little penetrating oil into the sparkplug well and let it soak in for an hour or so before removing them. They will unscrew easier on a warm engine than a cold one. If they've never been replaced before, at that age, carbon builds up on the plug and might make them stubborn to turn at first. But the penetrating oil will provide some lubrication to ease the job.









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[RickyEinspahr]

If it's like my 2006 XLT pickup with the Triton engine yes there is a special tool that is required to take them out. Yes they are prone to bust but a good mechanic that knows what he's doing has the tool to also take out the cracked or broken one. I bought my pickup 5 yrs ago headed home with it and it would not accelerate very good and couldn't get it up to speed on the interstate. Dealership told me the truck was ready to go had the 27 point inspection and passed and was ready. Well it wasn't took it to my mechanic he found 3 mismatched spark plugs. 2 half way threaded in and a busted one. Plus clogged fuel filter. Along with 2 coils misfiring and needed replaced. Walked away a little over 850.00 in repairs and labor. But took it back to the dealership with mechanic report and repair bill. I was pist. Dealership was stuck flipping the bill because their mechanics admitted they never cked the vehicle prior to me calling about it being for sale. They never touched it didn't even go through their shop. Salesman wasn't to happy but company did pay for all repairs and parts paid the whole bill for me. But that's when I found out that the spark plugs in the Triton engine do require special tools to remove and replace and remove any cracked or broken spark plugs. Surely there would be a mechanic that can do the job for you. As if he's knowledgeable on his engines.

 

[JamaicaJoe]

There are three or four different spark plug designs over the years. The 1999 is not one of those that breaks off. See Hamfisteds advice. Be sure to replace the coil boots and spring on each plug as you will have misfiring with even new plugs. The coils should only be changed with OEM. Replace only as needed, the coils.

 

[Yupster Dog]

What’s the back story to these plugs

Your mechanic is mixing up years, your plugs are not the ones that crack. 5.4 3v
Your plugs are the ones that blow out. 5.4 2v
There are many threads here on this subject.

Go to the search box top right of this page and put in, sparkplug blowout

Or just watch this ford tech makuloco video for exactly what you need to do.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kc4-z-sT1ms

 

[BlackBetty]

The guys are correct. It was the later model years (2004-2008) with the 5.4 3v motors that had this issue.

Even if you take it to Ford, as recommended by someone you mentioned, yes they have the special tool to remove a potential broken plug. However, that’s on top of the quoted price to change plugs… any other issue involved in the process is extra.

 

[Dadunn536]

I’ve replaced various coils and plugs on a 99 Expedition and a 2000 F150. Never broke a plug. The back plugs, especially #4 (passenger side) is pretty hard to get to. I agree with other posters that penetrating oil and heat (warm engine) can help loosen stubborn plugs.

 

[whtbronco]

Plugs 3 and 4 can be quite difficult to get too. My first time changing plugs in my 5.4 2V it took me an embarrassing 8hrs. Second time 6hrs. 3rd time I found the $20 ratchet below at Harbor Freight and took less than 2hrs, the last time I did plugs it took 45 minutes. This ratchet makes all the difference in the world.

 

[Dryer Dave]

My 2003 Expedition (5.4L 2V) was just into my mechanical he did plugs and a couple of other things for around 900. Worth every penny. Truck drives like a dream.

 

[callwill]

Penetrating oil applied a couple of times over a couple of days and allowed to heat cycle will help. once a plug turns loose, tighten it a bit then back it out some more.Keep working it like that. Once you have cleared the carbon build up getting it the rest of the way out should be considerably easier.

 

[Anthony O]

Thanks for the info gentlemen!

 

[Gary Waugh]

I have an 08 5.4l, the plugs get changed every 80k miles, just changed them again, am at 220k miles, still have original coils and no issues, it takes me about 2 hours to change all 8 plugs. I usually disconnect the knock sensor above each spark plug and then disconnect the coil plug, remove the mounting bolt and remove the coil. Then remove the spark plug, usually very tight and stiff. Then replace the plug, refit the coil, reconnect the coil and knock sensor and then repeat the entire process for the next spark plug. I find the passenger side plugs the easiest to get to, for the driver side, I also remove the ducting from the air filter box to the throttle body to make it easier to access the plugs. I put a small smear of copper slip (copper grease) on the threaded section of the new spark plug to try and make it easier to remove later on..

 

[MesaGuy]

1997-2002 2V 5.4L Do NOT have the cracked plug problem. The mechanic was gun-shy because the 2003-2008 3V 5.4L engine DID have a severe cracked plug problem. Just find a yourself another independent mechanic that does a lot of work on Ford Trucks, or do it yourself. If you do it yourself, their is one issue with the 2V 5.4L engine in relation to spark plugs, especially one for vehicles in the condition you described in your original post. e.g. that the plugs have never been previously changed. That is issue is that the thread bore design on the 2V 5.4L was essentially one thread "to little", the engine could have really, really, really used one more thread on the aluminum head (and a slightly thicker bit of aluminum in the head to accommodate that additional thread) than it actually has. So sometimes plugs "blow out" because they are essentially only being head in by two threads of 3, instead of 3of4 or 4of4.

What does that mean for you. Take you time, don't rush or force it. Remove the coil on plug (COP) units to expose the upper plug. Blow out the well of dirt with a air compressor (if you have one), or a can of air (e.g. "Duster" can, Amazon). Then (with the engine cool) spray in some PB-Blaster or drip in some Kano Kroil oil onto the spark plugs into the spark plug wells. (You are taking them out, so some oil doesn't matter). Leave it to sit over night, so that the PB-Blaster or Kroil oil can seep into the threads of the plugs, which haven been in that spot (suck up burnt oil, clocking and locking the threads for 25 years).

THEN, next day socket them out with HAND tools. The whole job is pretty easy except for 3 things. The hold-down bolt on one of the COP (I think its cylinder #6, 3rd one back (from the front) on the drivers side) that bolt is hard to get at because of the fuel rail. (I have bought a 7mm socket&u-joint in one combined piece) from Amazon (I believe Tekton sells them) that makes that job a lot easier. (Worth the $10-20 dollars for the one socket in terms of time and aggravation.) The other two things are the clearance on the rear two plugs (the #4, and #8) is difficult. You usually need to move vacuum and wiring about to get in there, and its hard to get the angle.

But otherwise, the job is pretty straight forward. Doing the overnight sit with PBBlaster/Kroil, will save your aluminum threads when you try to ratchet out the plugs. If you do NOT do that, you have tendency to rip the dirty, crusted up "stuck" plugs in head, and tear the aliminum head threads. So, just lub it overnight, and let it suck up some creeping oil into the threads over night and no problems.

Depending on your budget, this is the time to replace your COP (coils) as well. I REALLY recommend getting the real FORD 5.4L COP Motorcraft coils, even though compared to after-market, they cost a fortune. (RockAuto, or Amazon are cheapest). The after-market coils all work great, for 10K miles, and then, its all over the place. Some keep working to 25K, and others not. In comparison, the Motorcraft coils will reliably give you 100K of service. So assuming you only ever want to do this relatively easy job once, spend the extra money, but it is a big price difference. After-market (Around $50-80 for 8 coils) and Motorcraft (Around $280-320 for 8 coils). So that is an extra approximately $200, but while many an after-market part is good, coils are not one of them. You definitely get what you pay for on this part. The only exception I would make is the Denso 6736000 COP, which is about 1/2 the price of the Motorcraft, but seem to work as well as the original.

On the plugs, get the Motorcraft as well. The engine computer likes them better. Here the price savings from after market to Motorcraft is not all that much.

When putting the new plugs in, definitely use a click-type torque wrench for proper torque. The plugs are just head in by 2-3 threads of aluminum. It needs to be snug, but not over-torqued, because those threads cannot handle over-torquing. And over-torqueing the Steel threaded plug, onto the aluminum threaded head, will easy tear out the aliminum, which is how people strip their threads, and then get "blow outs". Mechanics cutting steps, and not doing by the numbers.
Tekton 7mm socket + universal
Capri 7mm socket + ujoint

Coil COP for 5.4L Triton, 2V 1997-2002 Engine

Motorcraft or Denso plug prices at RockAuto

 

[Yupster Dog]

When putting the new plugs in, definitely use a click-type torque wrench for proper torque. The plugs are just head in by 2-3 threads of aluminum. It needs to be snug, but not over-torqued, because those threads cannot handle over-torquing. And over-torqueing the Steel threaded plug, onto the aluminum threaded head, will easy tear out the aliminum, which is how people strip their threads, and then get "blow outs".

Actually you do want to over tighten some.
Not tightening enough is the main cause of "blowout".

That is why it's usually the back ones to blow out first,
because they are hard to get to and tighten properly.

Scroll up to my previous post (#6) and watch the video, Makuloco explains the proper tightening procedure.

 

[1955moose]

I have a 2000 Expedition, same motor, same deal. Here's the skinny. The spark plugs don't break on removal, their just a P.I.A. especially the rear 2 on driver's and passenger side. The other biggest issue is Ford in all their infident wisdom, decided to put about 4-5 threads too few on the sparkplug holes in heads. If they aren't torqued just right, about 22-24 ft lbs. They spit out like a watermelon seed under pressure. This requires a thread insert to be installed on ones that ejected, not fun. I've got 133k on my originals, with no engine miss. Even the dealer can screw it up, if the tech is in experienced. And none will guarantee it won't happen. Count on anywhere from $300.00 to $500.00 for job. Run a computer scan at parts store or buy your own, their cheap enough. And replace just that coil and wire. First. It's a special 9/16 spark plug socket if you want to tackle spark plug yourself. Anywho that's the whole magilla on this stupid plug thing