Rear Sway bar?

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Johnb21

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I am sure this has been mentioned before and just wondering if there is a tuner (if possible) working on this, ..as to me extra roll stiffness would be nice, but it is the rebound damping that is the issue for me.
Any thoughts here? I drive mostly on pavement. My 2005 Tahoe with bilsteins were awesome on rebound and my wife agrees better that techno Expedition.
302A here.
Thanks!
 
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Deadman

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I am sure this has been mentioned before and just wondering if there is a tuner (if possible) working on this, ..as to me extra roll stiffness would be nice, but it is the rebound damping that is the issue for me.
Any thoughts here? I drive mostly on pavement. My 2005 Tahoe with bilsteins were awesome on rebound and my wife agrees better that techno Expedition.
302A here.
Thanks!

Unfortunately our vehicle isn't popular enough for anyone to sink their time and efforts into this on the stock parts. You might be able to find aftermarket struts with better valving, but you kinda have to buy them and try them to find out how the valving is.....
 

MattB9418

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I am sure this has been mentioned before and just wondering if there is a tuner (if possible) working on this, ..as to me extra roll stiffness would be nice, but it is the rebound damping that is the issue for me.
Any thoughts here? I drive mostly on pavement. My 2005 Tahoe with bilsteins were awesome on rebound and my wife agrees better that techno Expedition.
302A here.
Thanks!
Bilstein 5100s on order for me and sumo springs helped a lot with the oscillating of the rear while towing.
 
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Hi Everyone,

Thought I might help since people are doing this in their driveways. You do want to use the correct torque specs on these. I'm a little surprised Hellwig hasn't included that in their install instructions. (maybe they do?) That said I came here to see everyone's experience on these and decided to order some for my wife's vehicle. To help people out I have included a story.... on how I would do it and some torque specs I would use. This is admittedly for 2019 but 4th gen should be covered here. Again you should verify everything on your own.


Front Stabilizer Bar - Removal
  1. With the Vehicle in N, position it on a hoist.
  2. Note: Do not use power tools to remove or install the stabilizer bar link nuts. Damage to the stabilizer bar link ball joints and boots may occur. The stabilizer bar links are designed with low friction ball joints that have a low breakaway torque. Use the hex-holding feature to prevent the ball stud from turning while removing or installing the stabilizer bar link nut.
    1. On both sides. Remove and discard the front stabilizer bar link upper nut. Torque: 59 lb.ft (80 Nm ) *(lower nut torque use the same)
  3. If equipped: Remove the 4 underbody shield retainers and the underbody shield. Torque: 79 lb.in (8 Nm)
  4. Note: To prevent the stabilizer bar from moving freely in the suspension system, increasing the possibility of contacting or damaging surrounding components such as the tires or front driveshaft; the raised ring on the stabilizer bar must be secured in the inner groove of the stabilizer bar bushing on the driver's side of the vehicle. Note the position of each component before removal
    1. On both sides. Remove and discard the front stabilizer bar bracket nuts. Torque: 46 lb.ft (63 Nm)
    2. On both sides. Remove and discard the front stabilizer bar bracket retainer.
    3. Remove the front stabilizer bar.
Front Stabilizer Bar - Installation
  1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Rear Stabilizer Bar - Removal

Note: Suspension fasteners are critical parts that affect the performance of vital components and systems. Failure of these fasteners may result in major service expenses. Use the same or equivalent part if replacement is necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Tighten fasteners as specified.

  1. Remove the wheel and tire.
  2. Note: Do not use power tools to remove or install the stabilizer bar link nuts. Damage to the stabilizer bar link ball joints and boots may occur. Use the hex-holding feature to prevent the ball stud from turning while removing or installing the stabilizer bar link nut.
    1. On Both sides. Remove and discard the rear stabilizer bar link nut and keep aside stabilizer bar link.
  3. On both sides:
    1. Remove and discard the rear stabilizer bar bracket nuts.
    2. Remove the rear stabilizer bar.
    3. Remove the rear stabilizer bar bushings.
    4. Remove and discard the rear stabilizer bar stud plates.

Rear Stabilizer Bar - Installation
  1. On both sides Inspect and thoroughly clean both sides of the frame bracket mounting surfaces.
  2. On both sides.
    1. Insert the new stud plates into the frame bracket holes.
    2. Inspect and if necessary, install new rear stabilizer bar bushings.
    3. Install the rear stabilizer bar.
    4. Install the new rear stabilizer bar bracket nuts. Torque: 35 lb.ft (48 Nm)
  3. Note: Do not use power tools to remove or install the stabilizer bar link nuts. Damage to the stabilizer bar link ball joints and boots may occur. The stabilizer bar links are designed with low friction ball joints that have a low breakaway torque.
    1. On both sides. Position the rear stabilizer bar link and install the new rear stabilizer bar link nut. Torque: 46 lb.ft (63 Nm)
  4. Install the wheel and tire.

Hope this is helpful to some of you. Feel free to read this to your kids at night, they will fall asleep quickly.
 

5280tunage

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The directions for @2019ExpeditionMax are pretty sweet but I will say I did both of mine a bit simpler. I do wish I had the torque specs, but for the front I put the vehicle on ramps, did everything as expected. For the rear, I didn't even use ramps, definitely didn't take any wheels/tires off as generally with sway bars, you want full weight on the suspension.

When I went back and replaced the end links on the front, I decided not to even put it on ramps, though it would have been a little easier of I had. But I also wasn't 100% on the end links lengths so I wanted the suspension to be at resting position to properly cut and measure them.

But the torque specs are awesome. Most of mine I just did about a 1/3rd of a turn past hard, and then double checked them about 50-100 miles later.
 

Deep8174

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Anyone else waiting from Hellwig for their orders? I ordered mine Feb 17 and still "processing".
 
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The directions for @2019ExpeditionMax are pretty sweet but I will say I did both of mine a bit simpler. I do wish I had the torque specs, but for the front I put the vehicle on ramps, did everything as expected. For the rear, I didn't even use ramps, definitely didn't take any wheels/tires off as generally with sway bars, you want full weight on the suspension.

When I went back and replaced the end links on the front, I decided not to even put it on ramps, though it would have been a little easier of I had. But I also wasn't 100% on the end links lengths so I wanted the suspension to be at resting position to properly cut and measure them.

But the torque specs are awesome. Most of mine I just did about a 1/3rd of a turn past hard, and then double checked them about 50-100 miles later.
A million ways to skin a cat; I just wanted those who have never tried something like this to have all the steps. Also, doing them on-ramps is just fine, especially if you have oversized tires you'll have plenty of room. I mainly wanted to share proper torque specs and highlight some information on the stabilizer bar links that I think people may not fully appreciate on this Gen. It's also worth reminding some that you will want the vehicle suspension at its normal ride height when you do your final torque on the stabilizer bar links.
 
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