That's interesting... Sounds like it would be a computer/programming issue. Does the truck run weird at all? and are they blinking as soon as you start it up?
Ok so I just need some clarification, by not turning over do you mean the motor is not spinning at all, or spinning but not firing up?Your description makes it hard to tell. You can rent a fuel pressure gauge tester for free from most auto parts stores (autozone, oreilly) and that would tell you...
I went with Accel and don't mind them (though idle is getting rougher as they get older) but if you can afford them do OEM as 6K suggested. There is no aftermarket advantage with coil packs unfortunately.
You probably caught it early before the fluid got low enough for the sensor in the master to turn the brake light on. It has to be pretty low to get the light. Air in the lines (or ABS module) will not turn on the brake light if that makes sense.
Usually low brake fluid is indicated by a red brake light on the dash. Doesn't hurt to check, but the ABS light only signals a problem with the ABS system itself.
Probably either damaged/unplugged a wheel speed sensor or got water where water doesn't belong. ABS light indicates the system is simply in off mode for now, so it is drivable. Check wiring going from the wheel hubs in front and back.
Look up JTkustoms, he had a show truck that he did the whole thing with plastidip. He isn't active anymore but I have heard as long as you use a sufficient amount, it's quite durable. You can look at dipyourcar.com for more info and bulk spray kits.
Hopefully this clears things up. I have my ABS fuse pulled due to it kicking in at bad times while making right turns, and it's been that way for 2 years (and 2 brutal winters). My A4WD still works fine in the winter, and since mine is a 97, I have a 2H option to confirm that. The way A4WD works...
Sorry phone typing while at work. What I meant was if you haven't seen any white smoke since adding fluid, then none has burned off and it explains why it hasn't gone down. If you have seen it, but the fluid has not moved at all, it might be something else. But it doesn't take much coolant...
When mine were stuck, I just replaced the entire wheel hub on each front. They were completely seized. The back rotors practically fell off in comparison.
One member had his bumper fall off, but that was the shop who installed it that messed up, not TAG. Only reason I bring it up is to make sure that if and when you have it installed, the bumper is securely welded in place.
Anyone that I have read about doing the swap has used the harness of the motor they are installing, usually the 5.4. I'm not saying they aren't interchangeable, just that most people change them anyways.
You could do just a 3 inch body lift all around and run 35's. That would be plenty big to handle any roads you get on. I do a lot of snowmobiling in the winter and see some gnarly roads myself, never had issues since I put on the 33's, and I have a heavy trailer behind me too.
I know my buddy...
There is a small o-ring that should be on the drain plug, if that is missing, it might drip slowly. Still keep an eye on the coolant, if you haven't seen white smoke since you added the water either then it hasn't had a chance to burn any off.
What kind of gears do you have? Look on the drivers door placard for an axle code. Lower gears means slower acceleration.
You can pull fuse 104 under the hood to turn off the A4WD completely and see if that is an issue.
Any check engine light codes? Does the motor idle rough or shake under...
Kind of depends on the size of the coolant leak. There might not be a lot missing or leaking . Draw a line with a marker where the coolant is and watch it over a week's time and see if it changes.
You didn't sea foam the intake lately did you? Coolant and sea foam are the only two things I know...
Sounds like you are leaking coolant into the cylinders. Probably bad head gasket. Check your coolant tank and see if the coolant is low, make sure the truck is cold when you do it though.
Agreed, the spacers simply push the body/frame higher in the air (I'm not calling them a body lift). They change the angles of things attached to static parts of the truck such as CV joints (attached to front diff) and front axle (attached to transfer case) but there are a lot of people here...
It looks like a salt-area rotor. I don't think the caliper could push on the outside without pushing the inside as well. I have had rear rotors get like that on all of the Expeditions in my family. Did you run it metal on metal before you changed the brakes last? Otherwise the previous owner...
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