It's always seemed that a flaky GEM is somehow involved with this behavior. Easy observation but what's flaking it out...? A while back, there was a comment something like "maintaining 25 year old vehicles is not for the easily discouraged." You are definitely not easily discouraged and I've...
Probably a dumb answer. I don't have a PC but started using FORScan Lite on an iPhone several months ago, never realized so much data was available for a Gen1. More data, in fact, than I know what to do with.
However, the Lite version "lacks the deep vehicle programming and "as-built"...
Obviously the shop disconnected the battery at some point...does it always take x amount of miles or trips or time before the P0500 comes back? Would you gain any useful info from clearing codes, doing a power reset, and keeping track of what happens until the code reappears?
Wow, the parallels continue - I'm replacing my alternator today. It left this life 10 miles from home on Sunday evening and I had to call a wrecker. Yesterday, I pulled out the old and bought a new new one, installing it now.
Wow, respect to the shop for figuring that out. Out of curiosity, how did they figure it out? Was it something they already knew, was there a way to logically trace it back to the harness, ...?
Yeah, if the actuator is bad, that's a completely different jar of flies and good luck fixing it yourself. But first see if any of the door latch linkages have failed. Pull off the trim panel and peel the dust shield back past the inside door handle. Then check that all five latch rods are...
@tactful_1
Those are very common Gen1 lock issues that usually owe to deteriorated plastic - bushings, clips, end-pieces, etc. The good news is that you can fix them yourself for $20 or so.
I'll be glad to go into more detail if this gets a response.
Earlier in this thread, Hamfisted mentioned using FORScan to gather more detailed data on my door-ajar problem. I already had FORScan Lite(iOS) and an OBDLink MX+ scanner but had never tried them, instead using an Ancel scanner and then later BlueDriver. Turns out FORScan provides way more info...
Mine's a lot easier to ignore than that!
After testing and experimenting for months, I still think the codes I'm getting are ghosts in the GEM. Thought I'd isolated a battery drain on a couple of circuits but then discovered that testing idle current flow with a multimeter isn't as...
That's fairly low mileage for a Gen1. If there's not much frame rust and no serious engine or transmission issues, it sounds like a worthwhile undertaking. It'll definitely be simpler to work on than your other two Exp's.
Re: spark plugs, I heard enough of the same horror stories to not try...
If you've ever wondered(and who hasn't?) what a Neutral Safety Switch looks like on the inside, here's an example from my wife's 2005 F150 5.4. I replaced it because of a couple of times when she was out and the truck wouldn't start in Park, only in Neutral. This is my all-time least favorite...
Mine continues to have a 0.22A drain and Low Voltage code. The draw is split evenly between two circuits but I haven't isolated anything yet. I did pull out the Battery Saver Relay which tested ok for current and resistance. Still don't know if the problem is that there's current on those two...
My interpretation of what grok and the OBD SysOp manual say: Unless the truck is moving, the VSS does not output a signal nor does the PCM expect one. So, when you clear codes and crank but remain in Park, where is that P0500 coming from? No clear proof but I still suspect it's a phantom code...
The constant P0500...are you getting a CEL with that?
After sitting for 4-5 days and getting down to 11.7V, I decided to ignore the door ajar code and focus on the low voltage, find out what's really causing it. Except that it's 27* and snowing, it went easier than expected. The meter showed...
Yeah, hmmm is right, 11.55 is bordering on the starter click zone. There has to be more than a single LED draining it like that.
I did follow grok's advice to the point where it concluded the villain was GEM and the next step was easy - pop off the kick panel to inspect and clean two...
If mine sits 3-4 days, the battery will fade from 12.5V to as low as 12.2V. Haven't tested it for longer than that but I think that's when the low voltage code shows up along with the always-present door ajar code. And the voltage code persists even when the battery gets back to 12.5V.
Maybe...
Good thing they're too old to have an internet connection to collude over.
As the GEM is inaccessible(to me), I've tried to prove it's not the problem but the randomness of the codes points right back to it. Like most of the others, the P0500 came and went. The only consistency has been a...
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