Update: 16+ months since this incident, the truck hasn't shown the slightest indication of a problem with the hub/bearings. Reflecting upon the details, that was a really clumsy scam attempt!
What if it sits outside for a few hours on an overcast day? Just wondering if the problem is the sun or the outside.
Have you ever checked exactly how long it takes for the AC to kick on? If it's a consistent amount of time, maybe that's a clue.
FORScan doesn't support programming Gen1's, mainly because the PCM architecture and datacomm protocol aren't the same as what's been used from Gen2 onward. That's how I interpret grok's opinion on the subject. But if you can get a sensor with a dedicated meter, couldn't you bypass the PCM...
Considering all you've done, do you think there's more than one issue? Yours sounds like one of those airplane disaster documentaries where the crash comes from an unlikely combination of problems, none of which were unsolvable on their own.
If you have an iPhone or iPad and a compatible scanner, FORScan Lite will read those and a lot more. Picture is of some of the transmission PID's that can be monitored.
Just idle speculation...seems that monitoring FRP on a Gen1 would require a pressure sensor on the fuel rail test port with a wired connection to the PCM. The sensor's output would be in an electrical format the PCM can handle - resistance, voltage, digital, whatever. Then the PCM has to be...
For years, my odometer has occasionally gone dark and what I've read about it points to failed solder joints as a likely suspect. Sometimes the odometer relights while driving but usually doesn't come back on until after a restart. I've always considered it an ignorable problem mainly because of...
It's always seemed that a flaky GEM is somehow involved with this behavior. Easy observation but what's flaking it out...? A while back, there was a comment something like "maintaining 25 year old vehicles is not for the easily discouraged." You are definitely not easily discouraged and I've...
Probably a dumb answer. I don't have a PC but started using FORScan Lite on an iPhone several months ago, never realized so much data was available for a Gen1. More data, in fact, than I know what to do with.
However, the Lite version "lacks the deep vehicle programming and "as-built"...
Obviously the shop disconnected the battery at some point...does it always take x amount of miles or trips or time before the P0500 comes back? Would you gain any useful info from clearing codes, doing a power reset, and keeping track of what happens until the code reappears?
Wow, the parallels continue - I'm replacing my alternator today. It left this life 10 miles from home on Sunday evening and I had to call a wrecker. Yesterday, I pulled out the old and bought a new new one, installing it now.
Wow, respect to the shop for figuring that out. Out of curiosity, how did they figure it out? Was it something they already knew, was there a way to logically trace it back to the harness, ...?
Yeah, if the actuator is bad, that's a completely different jar of flies and good luck fixing it yourself. But first see if any of the door latch linkages have failed. Pull off the trim panel and peel the dust shield back past the inside door handle. Then check that all five latch rods are...
@tactful_1
Those are very common Gen1 lock issues that usually owe to deteriorated plastic - bushings, clips, end-pieces, etc. The good news is that you can fix them yourself for $20 or so.
I'll be glad to go into more detail if this gets a response.
Earlier in this thread, Hamfisted mentioned using FORScan to gather more detailed data on my door-ajar problem. I already had FORScan Lite(iOS) and an OBDLink MX+ scanner but had never tried them, instead using an Ancel scanner and then later BlueDriver. Turns out FORScan provides way more info...
Mine's a lot easier to ignore than that!
After testing and experimenting for months, I still think the codes I'm getting are ghosts in the GEM. Thought I'd isolated a battery drain on a couple of circuits but then discovered that testing idle current flow with a multimeter isn't as...
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