02 Rear Coils to Air Bags

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Pappy

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I know, I KNOW!!! Everybody wants to go the other way. But - I'm going to have to put some kind of leveling device so - - -

I regularly pull a travel trailer. I'm probably going to use the Air Lift Dominator 2600 bags and manual leveling valves (like on semi trailers) so the ride height is consistent regardless of load and air pressure. There will be arrangements for manual lift/drop override. That way I can dump the bags, back up to the hitch, inflate the bags, crank the jack up with no load.

Is there a kit around that is a bolt in solution? Or am I going to have to buy mount plates and fab up spring pocket eliminators?

I'd love to hear about your experiences.

Steve
 

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I think from my experience in this group, that this is going to be something most on here have not done. Sounds cool to me and I'd like to learn more as you do this. I like the idea of the manual leveling and not an automatic system. Seems cleaner and more consistent.
 
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Pappy

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I like the idea of the manual leveling and not an automatic system. Seems cleaner and more consistent.

There are several electronic systems out now that are height based, rather than pressure, but they are $1500 and up, by the time you get the height sensors, valves, processor, controller, etc. The manual leveling valves start around $50 each for commercial quality. For the manual override, I'll need two normally open, 12v solenoid air valves, a switch to control them, and anther manual 2-way valve. Commercial quality solenoid valves are around $25 and the manual valve I'm looking at is about $50. That leaves me looking at around $200 instead of 2 grand for level control. Add $310 for the X2 kit and maybe another $100 for air line and fittings. Allow $200 for new rear shocks and I already have the compressor and tank. So for a grand total of less than $1000 and a LOT of elbow grease, I have rear air suspension. I'll add a Grover air horn and maybe even RideTech Shockwaves up front later.

I'll also have the luxury of on-board air. I always carry tire plugs, so I never have to change a flat, just plug it, then get to Discount Tire for a permanent repair later.
 

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I'll also have the luxury of on-board air. I always carry tire plugs, so I never have to change a flat, just plug it, then get to Discount Tire for a permanent repair later.

I added on board air my rig as well. Its nice to have that bit of security on your ride. I need to throw some tire plugs in the travel tools. Thats a good idea Pappy!
 
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Pappy

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I have decided to put the compressor just in front of the jack compartment. I'll have to sacrifice the storage cubby there, but oh well. I'll add a small 12v fan and vents for cooling. The air tank will live between the running board and curb side frame rail. That'll be step one. Then I'll order the X2 kit and all fittings, lines, valves. Pics to come.
 
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Pappy

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Just purchased a set of Grover air horns and the valve. I'll sound like a Peterbuilt soon.
 
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My air tank is just a smidgen too big to fit where I want it. So I ordered a new 3 gallon aluminum tank off eBay. I'll probably get the fittings and air lines locally.
 

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Bowesmobile

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How much did that run you? Im thinking about adding a second tank for more volume in my set up. Stainless would be nice to have for our nasty winters here.
 
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Pappy

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I found this listing. Offered $100 and it was accepted.

24" Seamless Aluminum Air Tank with Brackets Specialty Suspension 3 8" Ports | eBay

I went with aluminum because it cost less than stainless, AND it won't rust. I looked at steel tanks, but decided to spring for the al-you-minimum one. I'll put my old tank on the TT along with a bigger compressor that I already have.

I also ordered vibration isolators, switches and bulkhead couplings today. I hope to have the Dish and the TT bagged by before next summer.

That reminds me, I talked to Danny at RideTech today. They have front Shockwaves for the 2wd '97 to '03 F150, but the Expedition isn't listed. I looked at MOOG aftermarket control arms for both the X and F. The upper and lower arms are the same part # for the X and F, AND the shocks are the same too. Danny said they don't know if the F150 Shockwaves will fit the Expedition or not because they haven't tried an install. If I can get them to send me a set and pay the shipping, I might order a set and see if they fit. If they don't, I'll have to decide whether to modify or pay return shipping.

Wonder if anyone here has tried the Shockwaves on the Expedition?
 
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Pappy

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Since there are 162,000 mikes on the original shocks, I'm planning to replace the rears when the bags go in. I'm leaning very heavily toward Bilstein 4600s, since I don't off road and I'm keeping stock height. I also am looking for the VERY best ride available, so I'm a lil wee bit shy of the Ranchos and Bilstein 5100. It looks to me like there is LOTS of difference in opinion as to which is the best shock for durability and comfort.

I'm holding off on the front until I make a decision about the Shockwaves, since shocks are built into them.
 
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Pappy

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Update!

The air tank and horn are here, Bilstein 4600s are ordered. I've found a local supplier for fittings and tubing. I'll probably start the install tomorrow. The compressor will displace my jack, oh well. The tank doesn't fit where I wanted to put it, but it will fit outside the frame, under the passenger side door. I'll probably start the install tomorrow. I'm double checking the fitting list tonight.

Once I have the onboard air and air horn up and running (hopefully by the end of this week), I'll order the rear bag kit, two height control valves, some electric air valves and a couple of manual air valves. I'm hoping I can cut a deal with RideTech on a set of HQ series Shockwaves. I think the F150 set will drop in, but I can't find anyone to confirm or deny that hypothesis. I don't really want to be out shipping charges both ways if they won't work.
 
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Pappy

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Phase One: COMPLETE

The first phase of the rear air suspension is done.

The air compressor (a Viair 325C) lives where the jack and lug wrench used to be. It's wired so I can have it run whenever the pressure drops, regardless of whether the switch is on or off, ONLY when the ignition is on, or not at all. This is accomplished with an off/on/off paddle switch. The "common" pole of the switch goes to the compressor relay, one of the switched poles goes to an "always hot" power source, and the other switched pole goes to an "ignition on" power source.

Compressor1.jpg

compressor2.jpg

The Grover horns are behind the grille. The horns are wired so they can be switched off. I spliced into the horn circuit, near the electric horns and connected one side of the air horn solenoid valve, the other side of the solenoid is wired to an on/off paddle switch that is tied to ground. When the switch is on, the electric horns work, but you'll never hear them. When the switch is off, the electric horns function normally and the air horns are silent. I'll typically leave the air horns off unless I'm actually driving. The panic button on my key fob is EXTREMELY sensitive, and I don't want that much noise by accident.
 
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Pappy

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Horn pics

Horn1.jpg

Horn2.jpg

Horn3.jpg

Horn4.jpg

The first 3 pics show the horns with the cowl off. The 4th pic shows what it looks like when you open the hood right now. Note the position of the horns in relation to the hood latch.

Yes, they are 50 state legal. These EXACT same horns are standard equipment on several semi tractors.
 
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Pappy

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Next steps

With air in place, the next step is to prepare for the actual air bag installation.

I have leveling valves and manual valves on order. 2 N/O and 2 N/C 1/4" solenoid valves will be ordered tomorrow, along with some specialty brass fittings. After I get the leveling valves installed and other plumbing done, I'll order the bag kit. That way if there's a problem with the kit, I'll know it immediately.

I'm hoping I can find a helper that wants to learn about some of this stuff. I KNOW it is going to be a B***CH to do this by my self.
 
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Pappy

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Well, I decided to not get a kit, I'll fab my own bag mounts. I've got 2 Dominator D2600 bags, upper & lower mounting plates ordered.

I measured from the frame to the bump stop and allowing for compression of the stop, ride height is about 5" from bottomed out. I then measured the shock mount bolt centers at ride height. The new Bilsteins are about 3-1/2" longer than ride height when fully extended, so there's about 8-1/2" of rear suspension travel. I'll verify this and get a more accurate measurement later. I'll jack the frame up till the tires are off the ground and measure frame to bump stop. I would have gone with Dominator D2500 bags, but they claim a 7.7" usable stroke and that isn't enough. The 2600s claim 9.7" usable stroke.
 
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Pappy

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CAD files?

Well, I intended to change the rear shocks today, AND get a bunch of accurate measurements for the air ride conversion, but it is raining. Not gonna happen in the rain.

Does anybody know if I can download CAD drawings for the rear suspension? The whole rolling chassis would be even moe GRANDER than just the rear suspension.
 
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