07 Expedition 148k Miles - Radiator Leak - Stop Leak?

[o2manyfish]

Hi Guys,

I have an 07 Expedition L with 148k miles. The radiator has a really small leak. It appears to be at the top of the radiator under the hose radiator hose on the top passenger side of the radiator.

When you shut off the truck you can hear a slight steam hiss for a few mins. And there is a very slight rust trickle down the edge of the radiator.

The mechanic who just did the oil change said it was a crack in the radiator. But he barely looked at it. From where I am There is so much 'stuff' right around the radiator hose, you can't see anything.

I took off the hose and reclamped it. Normally I don't have to add water to the coolant box for 3 weeks - I drive maybe 200miles a week.

Should I just throw in some stop leak, or should I replace the radiator?

I know replacing the radiator is the smart thing? But for such a minimal leak and everything else working well I wasn't sure on what the forums opinion was on Stop Leak with these engines at this age.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Dave B

 

[Plati]

cant tell without seeing it
little leaks become big leaks
and spray liquid all over engine?

 

[1955moose]

Do not, I repeat do not put anything in cooling system to stop leak! They will eventually, plug up your cooling system like a bear plugging himself up for hibernation! If your leak is small, try cleaning the outside of radiator with sand paper, and use a good plastic repair epoxy. I can't over emphasise thorough cleaning of outside, along with draining coolant down below repair. This might buy you some time, till you can replace radiator. Be sure to purge all air out of system when done.

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[Plati]

We had a cooling system leak out riding snowmobiles one day up in the north country. Guy goes into restaurant, steals a pepper shaker, and dumps that in the cooling system. It did the job and got him home. I was riding behind him and was hungry the whole time.

 

[East-TN]

Do not, I repeat do not put anything in cooling system to stop leak! They will eventually, plug up your cooling system like a bear plugging himself up for hibernation! If your leak is small, try cleaning the outside of radiator with sand paper, and use a good plastic repair epoxy. I can't over emphasise thorough cleaning of outside, along with draining coolant down below repair. This might buy you some time, till you can replace radiator. Be sure to purge all air out of system when done.

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+1...anything you pour into your radiator to stop a leak, is also going to find its way into the motor’s internal cooling passages and water jackets potentially causing blockages there too. Not good for your motor’s longevity.

 

[deweysmith]

No stop leak. I'd sand and JB Weld from the outside first. Stop leak probably wouldn't do it anyway, it's designed to swell gaskets and hoses, I don't think it would even try to block a pinhole in the radiator.

 

[stamp11127]

If you have been adding tap water instead of distilled water, plan on replacing the heater core and waterpump also.

 

[JExpedition07]

I'm going to agree with everyone else. Stop leak may be tempting but it can do all sorts of stuff to anything antifreeze runs through. I'd just replace the radiator.

 

[chart75]

Been there, done that. Just replace the rad.

 

[Dennis_H]

I'm going to agree with everyone else. Stop leak may be tempting but it can do all sorts of stuff to anything antifreeze runs through. I'd just replace the radiator.

Yep, you are going to end up replacing the radiator. You 'may' be able to buy some time if you sand around the area to rough it up and do some JB Weld. I did that on daughters Explorer and brother's car for a while. It worked OK on the Explorer till I replaced it, but it won't last. Brother's car still seeped some, but not as bad.

 

[lbv150]

Now to go against the popular response. I have used Bar's Leak Pelletized Heavy Duty Stop Leak PLT11 pellets for many years on many different engines...never a problem or anything clogged. It is my first go to for any coolant leaks. It is also approved by OEM as a sealant, will pass through a 24 gauge mesh screen and will not clog any passages or heater cores when used as directed.

 

[Flexpedition]

A replacement Motorcraft can be had for about $200, might find it cheaper locally and save on shipping. Part number 7L1Z-8005-B is for the larger core that came with the HD tow package. You can get cheaper Spectra, Evan Fisher and TYC but ultimately you get what you pay for. Small leaks almost always become bigger, and it'll happen when you are 50 miles from home, at night, with no tools, you can count on that.

 

[1955moose]

Well one thing I've learned from doing repairs on cars/trucks again and again, a band aid is just to get you where your going. Bars leak claims their product is different from the rest, being in business since 1947. Do you know how many times a company swore their product worked better than all the rest, but in the end they usually don't. Everyone has a different idea of what works for them, but one thing I've found in 47 year's of spinning my wrenches, is you can't cheat. When a part or system fails, its got to be replaced with another quality part. Look what happens to humans when instead of eating right, and exercising, they have their doctors prescribe tons of meds to keep them going. Same thing for your Suv. Maintenance, proper diet of fuel/oil/ chemicals, and you won't need pills!

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