1997 5.4 Exhuast Flange Stud Replacement

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tcwaltz

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I'm pretty sure they are metric. I think the stud is 8mm with a 5mm hex end. Just checked the nut for the EM stud and its 13mm/ 1/2"

The Dorman kit I used was 03411 Probably the same on the 97. Kit does one side. (there is 10 bolts and nuts, probably good up to the V10). I never mind having an extra.
 

1955moose

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Anytime your removing rusty, or broken studs or bolts, it's a struggle in the best of situations. Machine shops have special jigs for getting broken studs out that the typical home mechanic doesn't. Exaust shops as a whole, are usually hacks, that only know how to cut off your old setup and weld up a new muffler/ pipes. Their are exceptions I'm sure but you need to ask the questions up front. Ask how do you remove broken studs, if you get a hokey answer stay clear of that shop. If your going to do yourself, you'll have to soak the studs first with a great penetrant liquid. Look for one that has a creeping agent in it. If you break any, and I'm sure you will, at that point, you might want a machinist to finish. At least that way they can save the Exaust manifold.


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tinkering

tinkering

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I'm pretty sure they are metric. I think the stud is 8mm with a 5mm hex end. Just checked the nut for the EM stud and its 13mm/ 1/2"

The Dorman kit I used was 03411 Probably the same on the 97. Kit does one side. (there is 10 bolts and nuts, probably good up to the V10). I never mind having an extra.
Thanks for that. I need to go hunting for a decent #13 metric deep impact.

They should never have let metric into Canada/the USA.
 

1955moose

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Better get used to metric nuts/ bolts, and measurements. The U.S is the only country left that still uses Sae measurements. Starting back in the late 70's car manufacturers started using metric thread fasteners. Metric is here to stay, better get used to it. Buy a metric vernier caliper, and a metric tap and die set. Your gonna need it.


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tinkering

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Anytime your removing rusty, or broken studs or bolts, it's a struggle in the best of situations. Machine shops have special jigs for getting broken studs out that the typical home mechanic doesn't. Exaust shops as a whole, are usually hacks, that only know how to cut off your old setup and weld up a new muffler/ pipes. Their are exceptions I'm sure but you need to ask the questions up front. Ask how do you remove broken studs, if you get a hokey answer stay clear of that shop. If your going to do yourself, you'll have to soak the studs first with a great penetrant liquid. Look for one that has a creeping agent in it. If you break any, and I'm sure you will, at that point, you might want a machinist to finish. At least that way they can save the Exaust manifold.


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The whole job has the potential to grow into a major struggle.
EM studs will probably break off at the cylinder head, which looks like the head will have to come off so a guy can find room to drill if necessary. The head has to come off so a machinist can do his thing.

I am getting cold feet. I might try drilling out the exhaust flange studs from up underneath there. That would at least take care of the biggest part of the leak; the leakage around the EM is fairly minimal. I know it will only get worse with time but I could sweep it under the carpet for awhile.
I've got some of that fizzy creepy penetrating oil. I would still consider carefully heating and then wet ragging the fastener, to break the corrosion bond in the threads. A welder friend of mine heats the seized fastener and then sprays penetrating oil in there; he says it works (I imagine it could produce a fair bit of smoke.)

I am still shopping for an oxygen tank and some fittings for my hot wrench. That will give me some time to decide for sure which way to go.
 
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tinkering

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Better get used to metric nuts/ bolts, and measurements. The U.S is the only country left that still uses Sae measurements. Starting back in the late 70's car manufacturers started using metric thread fasteners. Metric is here to stay, better get used to it. Buy a metric vernier caliper, and a metric tap and die set. Your gonna need it.


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We have been metric duped in Canada for many decades. It Ps me that we didn't stick with our biggest trading partner (used to be the US) and SAE. I will never 'get used to it' as such. The best I can do is put up with it. As for kilometers?... After the whole place was surveyed in miles we have kilomeeters ramped up our elbows. The metric system is no more accurate; that is a delusion. I think it was a French power move or something.:893Chainsaw-Smilie- My forefathers tools which I inherited have been made obsolete by those tassbirds!!
 

1955moose

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Using a pair of locking vise grips, with a good penetrant should get the studs off. You can try some heat, just be sure to have a fire extinguisher handy, especially if you spray first. Use a rocking in and out motion, with the vise grips. If it gets tight, stop before you break any studs. Good luck, keep us posted.


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tinkering

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Using a pair of locking vise grips, with a good penetrant should get the studs off. You can try some heat, just be sure to have a fire extinguisher handy, especially if you spray first. Use a rocking in and out motion, with the vise grips. If it gets tight, stop before you break any studs. Good luck, keep us posted.


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Thanks for that coach. I will keep in mind to hold back on the torque while keeping the size and age of the stud in mind.
Forums are sure great for talking things over, unlike in the past when you often just went for it alone! Thanks
I shall return:boxing::weld::winner_first_h4h:
 

1955moose

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No problem, you'll do just fine.


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tcwaltz

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The one thing I'll say is that the steel coming out of aluminum is "much better" than rusted steel coming out of cast iron. I only had two studs break off. One was really close to the block, the other snapped the minute I turned it and it was rusted, so it had been gone for a while. Yes this is a pain in the ass but at the end of the day you'll be better off unless you are unlucky enough to break them all off. I have a 2000 with 249K miles on it. I was putting in a reman motor so it didn't matter much. Most of the studs actually turned right out of the head.
 

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