1997 Expedition w/ 5.4 Need help

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

mw1957

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Posts
13
Reaction score
0
Location
SD
My bulletproof non leaking 1997 may have taken one for the team. Last she ran good, according to the wife, there was what felt like a "flat spot" sometimes up around 50mph. Take your foot off and get back on it and she as fine. But eventually did it again. Finally the ol girl just kinda quit. So I have a friend scope her and he tells me it's the EGR valve. So this weekend I yanked that and replaced. She runs. But not good. Runs very rough at low rpms. Sitting in the drive, I can't keep her at 1000 or even 1500 rpms. But no problem keeping her at 2500 or even 3000.
So what else should I be looking for here? Thanks in advance
 

designit

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
Posts
277
Reaction score
0
Location
oregon
Welcome aboard.. IAC (idle air controler) / throttle body-manf. would be where I'd clean up first I suppose...

any other codes / other issues?
 
OP
OP
M

mw1957

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Posts
13
Reaction score
0
Location
SD
Thanks. Will look that up and get that done. No other codes now. The guy that read them first then disconnected my battery (which has since died) and I have no CEL now. No codes.
The only other symptom is she sounds a little "throaty" which may be a cat and unrelated. But I am a rank amateur at this and I'm just diving in to see if I can get her back on the road. Thanks for the help and the welcome.
 

designit

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
Posts
277
Reaction score
0
Location
oregon
I was talking about just 'cleaning' not to change (at this point) to clear that up... remove the IAC & blast it inside with throttle body cleaner... Check your air filter & remove the tube off the intake manifold & shoot the flapper with TB cleaner all over, wipe out as much as you can & see if that helps (short term)... You could remove the TB & clean it right, later... You may want to bleed the fuel pressure off?? And you may even want to try some Seafoam (down the brake booster hose - method)... there's a recent thread on seafoam roaming around here somewhere... Good luck... (I wouldn't go to cops or plugs just yet.)

There will be suggestions from others...
 
OP
OP
M

mw1957

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Posts
13
Reaction score
0
Location
SD
Yes, I meant cleaning too. Less buying the better right now.
 

designit

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
Posts
277
Reaction score
0
Location
oregon
Yeah, I figured you knew... Just that "I" was a little wishy-washy in my reply... :burnout:
 
OP
OP
M

mw1957

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Posts
13
Reaction score
0
Location
SD
a>




How do I disconnect the electrical connector to the IAC valve on this thing?
I have the IAC Valve off ( a real bear under the firewall like that) and it comes part of the way out. The electrical connector did not come off easily but more likely I can't figure it out. How does this thing release?
 

designit

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
Posts
277
Reaction score
0
Location
oregon
pinch the outer housing and pull off.. (may need to wiggle it slightly?)

You should feel the lever give a little when you grab / pinch it...
 
OP
OP
M

mw1957

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Posts
13
Reaction score
0
Location
SD
Got it. I couldn't see it well enough and was squeezing it wrong. Got it out, got it off and got it cleaned. Put it back on. I can actually hold it at idle now around 1500 rpm and it stays. But still sluggish/missing at low rpm at acceleration. I have not cleaned the MAP yet. But now where? What does she sound like now? Better, but still not there. Thanks for sticking with me on this.
 
OP
OP
M

mw1957

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Posts
13
Reaction score
0
Location
SD
Ok. I have done everything here except the Throttle body. Runs better, but not good. Low rpms really rough. Once (sitting still) I get it up to about 2000 rpms she smooths out and I can hold her there (or higher) but won't hold well at 1500 or below. Drove her down the street and can't get her up to high enough rpm to run smooth. Rough. Better than before, but something still wrong. Thoughts?
 

designit

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
Posts
277
Reaction score
0
Location
oregon
dump it... Buy a tahoe... haha... just kidding...

:hahano:

:joke:


I'll post a few thoughts in a bit... -- in the mean time, go reset your computer if you've not done it lately... (disconnect the neg. bat. terminal)

What time zone you in too?
 

designit

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
Posts
277
Reaction score
0
Location
oregon
Ok. I have done everything here except the Throttle body. Runs better, but not good. Low rpms really rough. Once (sitting still) I get it up to about 2000 rpms she smooths out and I can hold her there (or higher) but won't hold well at 1500 or below. Drove her down the street and can't get her up to high enough rpm to run smooth. Rough. Better than before, but something still wrong. Thoughts?

Did you run seafoam thru the vaccume (brake booster) tube?
Did you check the air filter condition?
Did you hit the MAF with MAF cleaner?
You could change the fuel filter. (if not done recently)
Do a search in here on the 90deg. elbow vacuum leak & check it..
Start the motor and spray carb cleaner all over around / in back / under (all over) the throttle body area. Listen for the motor to change it's idle (this will tell you the area of a leak, should you have one)

I would seriously recommend getting a cheap code reader $60.00 at Oreilly's Innova one works great...

Clear the computer, disconnect battery for 15 minutes or so? & then run the ODB2 Ford drive cycle... http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html ... The code reader is handy to have hooked up when running these tests because each 'test set' is displayed on the screen, as you do the drive cycle, each test that is run successfuly will drop off the readout...

When you've run all the tests (don't worry about the evap test, it won't run right away) take it into a parts shop & have the computer read for codes? if you decide to not buy a reader.

Make sure you run the misfire test... I'm interested in that test to eliminate plugs / cop issues..??

Lastly, the IAC 'could' be shot (doubtful, but possible) it's a cheap part but save it for later...

That's all I got right this minute...
 
OP
OP
M

mw1957

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Posts
13
Reaction score
0
Location
SD
This poor Expy has been sitting for LONG time, but now we're up and running. COPx8 bad. In addition, mechanic (new) said that two of the plugs were original or close to it. I guess one or two plugs in these are VERY hard to get to and the tune ups I have had done failed to replace those plugs. Plus, like I say, all 8 COP replaced. Runs good, save one issue.
running at any steady speed, it tends to still have that "flat spot." It's a slight hesitation and is abated if you back off gas a little and get back on it. But it will do it again soon after. No codes thrown.
Thoughts?
 
Top