wmsrichard
Member
Check Engine (CE) Light is now off
I posted on here asking for help with some EGR flow issues and was not really able to get any. So here is what I did to resolve my issues and maybe it will help someone else.
1. Remove throttle body and check the EGR valve ports. They will be two little holes in the wall of the TB. Just trace the line from where you disconnected the EGR valve.
- My ports were 100% carbonized shut. It took an ice pick and 3 cans of carb cleaner to unstop them
- Since you have the TB off you might as well clean the entire thing.
2. Remove and replace EGR Valve
- After removing the EGR valve I had to clean the EGR Tube which also had a carbonized block in it.
- Removing this tube can be a pain in the wrench so i left it on and cleaned it in place by using a can of liquid wrench and a drain pipe snake. you can try to use a coat hanger but it is not flexible enough to make all the bends to the header.
-disconnect the hoses that run from the EGR Tube to the DPFE sensor and clean ports on the EGR Tube side out as well.
3. Remove and replace the DPFE sensor AND hoses. Reconnect the DPFE hoses correctly to the EGR Tube
At this point I hooked it all back up and took it for a test drive. It ran fine for a while and then started stumbling again. The Check Engine blinked and then stayed solid. I took it to AutoZone, hooked it up to the computer and was informed that I had a misfire on #7 but no EGR issues. WOOHOO!
I noticed a trend from earlier since I was getting a misfire on #4 and now I had a misfire on #7 that the drives side coil pack was going bad (that coil pack controls #4 and #7 also #2 and #8). So I decided to replace the plugs, wires, and coil packs.
REPLACING SPARK PLUGS, SPARK PLUG WIRES, AND COIL PACKS
This is just the way I did it. It doesn't mean it will work for you but it did work.
1. Remove all old wires.
2. Disconnect Fuel Injector (FI) wiring harness from left side only (where #4 is)
3. Wrap a some bailing wire around the heater hoses above #4 and pull up (gently) until you have some room to get a ratchet back to #4 (#4 is the last spark plug on the left side, all the way in the back) secure the wire to the hood through one of the holes.
4. I used a 6" extension and a 5/8 socket and removed all plugs on left side first starting with #4. If you get #4 REPLACED then you have done the toughest spark plug of the job. The other 7 will be tough but nowhere near as tough as #4
5. Replace the coil packs. There are 4 8mm (i think 8mm) bolts holding the coil packs on remove those, disconnect the connector and put the new one in.
6. Put the new wires in. The left side is #1 - #4 the right side is #5 - #8
6 3 -- 7 2
1 5 -- 4 8
Left side (passenger) coil pack 6, 3, 1, 5
Right side (driver) coil pack 7, 2, 4, 8
Be sure to run the cables correctly and pay attention to the clearance for the fan.
Hook everything back up and you are all done!!
This resolved our #4 and #7 misfire issues and have not had any issues since.
I posted on here asking for help with some EGR flow issues and was not really able to get any. So here is what I did to resolve my issues and maybe it will help someone else.
1. Remove throttle body and check the EGR valve ports. They will be two little holes in the wall of the TB. Just trace the line from where you disconnected the EGR valve.
- My ports were 100% carbonized shut. It took an ice pick and 3 cans of carb cleaner to unstop them
- Since you have the TB off you might as well clean the entire thing.
2. Remove and replace EGR Valve
- After removing the EGR valve I had to clean the EGR Tube which also had a carbonized block in it.
- Removing this tube can be a pain in the wrench so i left it on and cleaned it in place by using a can of liquid wrench and a drain pipe snake. you can try to use a coat hanger but it is not flexible enough to make all the bends to the header.
-disconnect the hoses that run from the EGR Tube to the DPFE sensor and clean ports on the EGR Tube side out as well.
3. Remove and replace the DPFE sensor AND hoses. Reconnect the DPFE hoses correctly to the EGR Tube
At this point I hooked it all back up and took it for a test drive. It ran fine for a while and then started stumbling again. The Check Engine blinked and then stayed solid. I took it to AutoZone, hooked it up to the computer and was informed that I had a misfire on #7 but no EGR issues. WOOHOO!
I noticed a trend from earlier since I was getting a misfire on #4 and now I had a misfire on #7 that the drives side coil pack was going bad (that coil pack controls #4 and #7 also #2 and #8). So I decided to replace the plugs, wires, and coil packs.
REPLACING SPARK PLUGS, SPARK PLUG WIRES, AND COIL PACKS
This is just the way I did it. It doesn't mean it will work for you but it did work.
1. Remove all old wires.
2. Disconnect Fuel Injector (FI) wiring harness from left side only (where #4 is)
3. Wrap a some bailing wire around the heater hoses above #4 and pull up (gently) until you have some room to get a ratchet back to #4 (#4 is the last spark plug on the left side, all the way in the back) secure the wire to the hood through one of the holes.
4. I used a 6" extension and a 5/8 socket and removed all plugs on left side first starting with #4. If you get #4 REPLACED then you have done the toughest spark plug of the job. The other 7 will be tough but nowhere near as tough as #4
5. Replace the coil packs. There are 4 8mm (i think 8mm) bolts holding the coil packs on remove those, disconnect the connector and put the new one in.
6. Put the new wires in. The left side is #1 - #4 the right side is #5 - #8
6 3 -- 7 2
1 5 -- 4 8
Left side (passenger) coil pack 6, 3, 1, 5
Right side (driver) coil pack 7, 2, 4, 8
Be sure to run the cables correctly and pay attention to the clearance for the fan.
Hook everything back up and you are all done!!
This resolved our #4 and #7 misfire issues and have not had any issues since.
