2001 Expedition too many issues to list

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AZ_Hardwoods

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Hello all. I'm hoping I have come to the right place. I bought a new to me 2001 Expedition Eddie Bauer a few days ago. I knew it would have problems going into it but now I am getting in a little over my head. So I will start at the beginning and go from there.

I got the vehicle home from the purchase and pulled the engine codes. I got P0357, P0442, P0171, P0174, and P0307. I did my research on them and looked into what would be needed. I knew the 442 was most likely the gas gap, especially since the cap that it currently had didn't correctly click. I was right and a new gas cap fixed that problem. The P0171 and P0174 were also an easy fix. I figured it was most likely a dirty MAF sensor and I turned out to be right. While I was at the parts store buying the cleaner, I picked up an air filter too. I figured it was just safer to change the filter out and start my own routine. Turns out the codes were created because there was no filter and so that is why the MAF sensor was dirty. The P0357 and P0307 were both about cylinder #7 having a misfire issue. I lucked out here and only had to replace the boot for 5 bucks. So now all of my engine codes are cleared. Yay, go me!!!!

I have also replaced the engine oil, added some transmission fluid as it was low, replaced the fuel filter, and changed out the differential fluid. Next on my list is a transfer case fluid change.

So here are the major issues.

I can't select a 4x4 mode without blowing the fuse for my backlight on the instrument panel.

Putting the truck into any mode other than 4H results in 4x4 light being on but then not being able to drive forward.

Having truck in 4H mode results in being able to reverse but not more than at an idle speed, however the truck will drive forward just fine. The 4x4 light does not currently come on in this mode.

In A4WD it reverses better, but slips while trying to go forward.

I am assuming spinning the knob all the way to the left is A4WD and to the right is 4L. I don't actually know as I am missing the knob and have to use some pliers to turn it.

The wife noticed while I was cycling through the gears while filling the trans fluid that switching gears had a loud clunk sound, like a binding sound. Almost like when a brake pad sticks.

The sun roof worked in vent mode until I tried to make it open up all the way and it sounded like something came off the tracks. I think the motor works fine but something is jammed and stopping it from opening.

The very back passenger window motor works to open up and vent but not if you constantly try and use it. You have to give it a minute to recover before it will work again. The driver side motor doesn't do anything at all.

The power side mirrors work for side to side and down but won't go up. If you push up on the joystick it makes it go out away from the car.

The power drivers seat can go up and down and backwards but won't go forward anymore than where it is at. It feels like it should go forward a lot more.

The power pedals don't move forward or backward but you can hear the motor trying to do something.

The AC doesn't work but I haven't even gotten into messing with that one. The previous owners said a recharge would last about 5 months. I am guessing there is a leak somewhere that I will have to find.

The gear shift can't go far enough down to reach first gear. I run out of room while moving through the gears. I named out the gears it was in three times to make sure I wasn't missing something.

So this is my investment and I would appreciate any help I can get trying to get it all going in the right direction. The biggest concern right now is getting the 4x4 modes to work right and for it to drive properly all the time. I don't know if it is a transmission issue or transfer case issue or if it could be as easy as the transfer case motor. This is an entirely knew world to me as it is my first truck and first 4x4 vehicle. I'm not afraid to dive in and work on it myself. I bought the chilton guide to help out with that. If it turns out that it is a serious trans or transfer case issue, then I will need to save up some money to fix it but I could totally spend my free time fixing any electrical issues it may have.

Any help is much appreciated and I look forward to getting to know you all.

Thanks.
 
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Bedrck47

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Welcome to the forum.

Get rid of the Chilton and get yourself the Ford Service Manual on DVD. Cost is $20.00 or less The DVD is specific to your year and model and also contains wiring diagrams and troubleshooting information
 

Habbibie

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I don't get it, the title says too many issues to list but when I click the thread it's got too many issues listed
 
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AZ_Hardwoods

AZ_Hardwoods

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I'm sure there are more issues that I don't even know about. That is just where I am starting. I'm thinking the drive ability issue is the most important though.
 
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AZ_Hardwoods

AZ_Hardwoods

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It may have been in an accident but it probably wasn't reported. It was just old and not well maintained. At this point, I have figured out it is just a transmission issue. So that will be quite expensive. The rest is probably just a lot of motors that need to be replaced. Slowly but surely, it will get to where it is a reliable vehicle.
 

Habbibie

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It might not be worth it bro. Run your numbers first, after all the repairs is the total value of the car higher than the needed repairs or no?
 
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AZ_Hardwoods

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Thank you for the diagrams. I have tested everything and am a little confused by something. The last test for the panel lamp dimmer circuit is failing. I can not get a reading at all when I have the voltmeter on pins 1 and 6. Now this may be my problem on why the dimmer is blowing when I use the 4x4 switch. I am wondering why when my main light switch is hooked up in my car though the dimmer switch still works. I can dim the lights. I can turn on the interior lights with it. Then when I test it, it fails the test.
 

stamp11127

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Check the resistance values on the 4x4 mode switch.
 

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AZ_Hardwoods

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Ok, so the 4x4 switch checked out fine but I also tested that yesterday. Tested it again to be safe. I tested the main light switch and it has no resistance value on the dimmer. Then I fiddled with it again and it did have a resistance value on the dimmer. I got fed up with it and threw it back in the truck, hooked everything back up and gave it whirl. I changed 4x4 modes and my backlight fuse didn't blow. Noticed an entirely knew problem, the headlights don't turn on. All the interior lights work, the dimmer works, the backlight for the instrument panel doesn't blow. So I gave the knob a turn and the parking lights work fine and putting it into auto mode turned on the parking lights. Then I gave the dash a couple of bangs and auto mode would no longer work and the defroster no longer worked. I am officially declaring this a problem of the main light switch. I won't have money to go buy one for a few days. I will update with the results at that point. Oh, I also check the junction box and battery distribution box fuses that control the headlights. They both checked out. I didn't check the bulbs. I guess I should do that. I still think it is the switch though. Too many problems right in that area.
 

AVERY CONFER

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Total price vs repair cost is a tricky decision. For example. I rather dump 2500 into mime than buy a new one for 2000. Why? Because say I put a new trans in it. It will be good for another 150k+ where a new model.... Who knows? You gain the peace of mind that the parts you replaced won't die any time soon.
 
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AZ_Hardwoods

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Alright so a little update with this project. The driver side headlight was missing an adjuster screw and wouldn't sit right so I replaced the housing and everything is all good. The power mirrors now work after a switch replacement. The headlights work again. It wasn't the main light switch or the combination switch. It was the connectors that plugged into the combination switch. The got the new connectors and pulled the wires out of the old ones and plugged them into the new connectors. So now there is no short when switching 4x4 modes and the headlights and brights and instrument panel dimmer and all that fun stuff works. I feel like I am slowly making progress.

The next thing I am working on is the power drivers seat and the power pedals. The seat is confusing me a little. I can get it to go up and down with the switch and even backwards. Trying to move forward will engage the motor but not move it. If you have someone else hold the forward button and you push on the back of the seat at the bottom, you can get the seat to move forward. Is it a different motor for forward and backward or the same one? If it is the same one what would cause forward to jam up?

Now about the pedals. I have searched and searched for 1st gen pedal fixes but can't find any. I can only find stuff about replacing the gear on the 2nd gen ones. My brake pedal moves about a 1/4" either way before it gets stuck. The gas pedal won't move at all. How do I disconnect the wire connected to the gas pedal to see if I can get just the brake pedal to move? If the brake pedal then works ok, how do I fix the gas pedal? I can't seem to see a way to take the assembly apart and replace a gear or anything like that.

Any help always appreciated.
 
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AZ_Hardwoods

AZ_Hardwoods

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The seat is now fixed. I added a little bit of lithium grease to the track which seems to help some. I also discovered that for some reason if the seat is completely lowered using the down button then it won't move forward past a certain point. If you raise the seat a 1/4" to a 1/2" inch it moves forward all along the track just fine. It is pretty weird in my opinion but at least it didn't require any part.

Still need to figure out the pedals if anyone has any suggestions there.
 
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AZ_Hardwoods

AZ_Hardwoods

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Got the pedals moved all the way forward. I think I will just have buy new pedals at some point if I want them to work. I think the gears inside the housings are stripped out some.


Discovered a new fun problem though. I wondered why when I doubled locked the door with the key fob that the horn always sounded muted and didn't make a normal your doors are locked chirp. Turns out that if the truck is on, the horn honks normally. If you have the truck off, the horn just makes this muted attempt at honking. It clicks on like it has power going to it but it doesn't make any noise really. You just sort of hear a quick muted noise and that is it. Will have to figure what is causing it. Perhaps some wiring issue from a non stock radio at some point.
 
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AZ_Hardwoods

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Ok, so I have figured out the horn situation. It has a TSB for it. They say it should take an hour. My guess is it will take me three hours at some point.
 

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tcwaltz

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Got the pedals moved all the way forward. I think I will just have buy new pedals at some point if I want them to work. I think the gears inside the housings are stripped out some.


Discovered a new fun problem though. I wondered why when I doubled locked the door with the key fob that the horn always sounded muted and didn't make a normal your doors are locked chirp. Turns out that if the truck is on, the horn honks normally. If you have the truck off, the horn just makes this muted attempt at honking. It clicks on like it has power going to it but it doesn't make any noise really. You just sort of hear a quick muted noise and that is it. Will have to figure what is causing it. Perhaps some wiring issue from a non stock radio at some point.

Mine does this too, although it tends to do it with the regular horn as well. I'm thinking relay issue but I don't see one in a fuse box anywhere but I hear a click when I press the horn. Stilling hunting for a solution to that, even replaced the horns (the originals were bad).
 

Bedrck47

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tcwaltz

Read his post just before yours and click on the link for the TSB file This will explain why the horn is muffled and will give you the solution
 
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