2002 4.6 crank no start

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Stevo1111

Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Posts
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Jacksonville
Hi All,

I'm new here. Picked up an 02' 4.6 with 100K miles for a such a good price I couldn't pass on it.

Ran strong until I parked it yesterday. I filled up the washer fluid and it all ran out right under the passenger side door. I only mention this because it seems like its right near the ECU.

Started last night, ran for about 1 second, then died. After that, crank no start.

Checked fuel pump relay, switched out with one I know is good, jumped pins 87 and 30. Nothing.

Checked fuel pressure. Had some fuel in the rail which came out, but 0 psi under key, 0 psi at crank.

Connected a scan gauge, but was unable to pull any codes although it did seem to connect.

When keyed on, the fuel pump will run for about 0.5 seconds, go "coooo", and then nothing. No sound.

All points lead to a bad fuel pump, but before I drop the tank, any way to verify if its a bad ECU?

Thanks!

Steve
 

Bedrck47

Full Access Members
Joined
Jul 4, 2014
Posts
5,641
Reaction score
652
Location
Elizebethtown, PA
So far you now know why you got it at a good price Now get ready to get a loan at the bank.

Get a can of starter fluid and have someone crank the engine while you spray JUSY A LITTLE INTO THE THROTTLE BODY JUST A LITTLE

Let us know if it tries to run
 

Bedrck47

Full Access Members
Joined
Jul 4, 2014
Posts
5,641
Reaction score
652
Location
Elizebethtown, PA
Did you test the fuses?

What was the voltage at pin 30 of the fuel pump relay?

Have you replaced the fuel filter?
 

docraymund

Full Access Members
Joined
Feb 14, 2011
Posts
1,075
Reaction score
108
Location
philippines
A definite way to tell is to pull it out, if a burnt odor is noticed, open it up and check for burned capacitors. Just follow static electricity precautions when handling the ecu.
 

stamp11127

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Posts
6,218
Reaction score
1,250
Location
Temple, Georgia
Right.... 0 psi on the fuel rail so let's take a look at the ecu internals.

How about checking for voltage on the fuel pump relay connector for pin 30 first. If voltage is present then jumper 30 to 87 and read fuel pressure again. If no pressure drop the tank and check for voltage going into the pump. If voltage is present then either the ground or the pump is bad.

My rule of thumb is at about 100,000 to 150,000 miles start getting ready to swap in a new one.
 
OP
OP
S

Stevo1111

Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Posts
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Jacksonville
Thanks for the replies so far!

Forgot to mentioned, I jumped from 30 to 87 earlier also, still just cranked.

I will test the voltage from 30 to ground to make sure the ECU is supplying a signal. That could be a way to tell for sure if the ECU is at least partially functioning, I suppose.

Can you pull a signal from near the pump without dropping the tank? Is there a connector back in there that I can squirrel myself to?
 

stamp11127

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Posts
6,218
Reaction score
1,250
Location
Temple, Georgia
The ecu/pcm controls the control side of the relay, 30 should be hot at all times. I've read where the harness may be accessible from the wheel well but haven't verified it.
 

Pappy

Full Access Members
Joined
Jul 28, 2015
Posts
92
Reaction score
10
Location
Texas
When I did my fuel pump, I have an '02 5.4 XLT 2WD, I dropped the tank, but I learned that the plug to the fuel pump is accessible with the tank still in, IF, you jack up the back end, support it with jack stands and let the rear axle hang on the shocks. It is kinda like a contortionist circus act - but it can be done.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
53,633
Posts
502,610
Members
47,241
Latest member
r98exp1
Top