No crank/no start after oil pressure light

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GlennSullivan

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Sorry to hear that. There are a few different posts on here about engine swap options. Sounds like you would not do the swap yourself, so first step is get with a good shop that can (and has done) this work. Then figure out what the costs are. I would go with a completely rebuilt long block as opposed to a short block or used engine.
 

GlennSullivan

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5.4 3 valve engines have issues with the roller followers that sit between the overhead cams and the valves. The cams push down on these followers, which, in turn, push down on the valves to open and close them. Access to these and other valve train components is by removing the valve covers.

The followers are known to fail, taking other valvetrain components with then and in worst case scenarios dropping a valve and ruining the engine.

Here is link to a video that will explain the above showing images of all components.

Based on your reported issues, I'm leaning toward the engine bearings being seized from lack of oil, but since the vehicle is not usable, no harm in pulling the valve covers to look things over to see anything out of norm.

If you have a relationship with a good shop(s) or even a Ford dealership, I would start a conversation with them (multiple sources if you have them) about a replacement long block. I've linked some threads below from this Forum regarding the process.

One word of caution, please do not put yourself in a situation where you are buying the engine from one company and paying another to install it, leaving yourself in the middle if something goes wrong, with both vendors pointing fingers and blaming each other and you in the middle without a functioning vehicle. Deal with one company and get an ironclad guarantee for a year or more that they will fix anything that is not right with the install at N/C to you.

The other important thing is before you dump a pile of money into this, is take stock of your entire vehicle as it presently exists. Besides the engine, is everything else in good shape and working order? Did it have other issues before this happened? Is the body and frame in good shape?

What you don't want to do is spend $$$$$ putting a new long block in the vehicle and then have the trans fail or frame crack 3 months later. Also consider what is the vehicle worth when back to good running condition and does it make sense to put this money in it or just buy a different vehicle. If this is a primary vehicle, also factor in the cost of a rental while this is out of service.


 
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Yidakimason

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Wow, thanks for your great advice.

This is my primary vehicle, so I need to replace/repair fairly quickly. Luckily, I have a small car to zip around, and will borrow a truck for work.

It is a 2012 in good overall shape. I was having air suspension issues, but it has new compressor. With 260,000 kms on it, resale won’t be that great. Compared to finding another comparable vehicle in this market, that may end up with the same issues… It’s going to be a very tough choice.
 

GlennSullivan

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Wow, thanks for your great advice.

This is my primary vehicle, so I need to replace/repair fairly quickly. Luckily, I have a small car to zip around, and will borrow a truck for work.

It is a 2012 in good overall shape. I was having air suspension issues, but it has new compressor. With 260,000 kms on it, resale won’t be that great. Compared to finding another comparable vehicle in this market, that may end up with the same issues… It’s going to be a very tough choice.
You being north, I would have a serious look underneath at all frame and suspension components. We have a 2007 Tahoe with only 81,000 miles, it was our primary winter vehicle in the northeast for 10 years (now a secondary vehicle). Take a look at some of the salt / liquid calcium chloride damage this vehicle had. Carefully evaluate the rest of your vehicle before dumping a lot of money into it. This cost me quite a bit to fix this past summer.

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GaryH

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Over full oil, milky oil. Both signs of coolant in the crankcase.
 

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